Coming to America: From Northern Germany to the “New World”

In the 19th and 20th century, millions of people were coming to America. They left Europe via the North German ports of Hamburg and Bremen respectively Bremerhaven in search of a better life in the “New World”, mostly the USA.

sculpture called Die Auswanderer, emigrants, on emigrants coming to America
This sculpture called Die Auswanderer, emigrants, is standing on the shore of the river Weser and remembers the seven million passing through the port of Bremerhaven. Actually, this statue by Frank Varga was donated by the German-American Memorial Association.

As a counterpart to the arrival halls in Ellis Island, several museums in German cities remember the adventurous journeys of the emigrants in transit.

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HAKONE OPEN AIR MUSEUM – at the height of beauty

Mount Fuji is certainly one of Japan’s most mesmerizing and iconic sight. A perfectly shaped cone, its top coated by a hood of snow – no wonder this sacred mountain is on top of every visitor’s list.

Sunnyside up: At Hakone’s outdoor gallery, visitors are invited to become one with the art – literally.

Although on clear days, you can be lucky to spot it all the way from Tokyo, most people take a day trip either to the Fujigoko Fuji Five Lake region at the northern foot of the mountain or to Hakone, a hot spring region with many grand places to experience….like the Hakone Open Air Museum, an outdoor gallery at the height of beauty.

World-famous Mount Fuji, probably Japan’s most iconic landmark, is a still active volcano, albeit, it erupted for the last time in 1707, so no worries.

this way to read the whole story >>>

INHOTIM- Introducing God’s and Other Artists’ Creations

God’s artistic creations – such as flowers and trees – are of genuine, pure beauty, indeed. But in combination with creations by earthly visual artists, they become just marvelous.

Dan Graham’s Bisected Triangle in the backdrop of the lush greeneries. At Inhotim, God’s creations and the other artists’ works go together just so well.

Bernardo Paz, the founder of Inhotim in the outskirts of Brumadinho, is not the first impresario to recognize that.
I’ve been to a couple of other fantastic combinations of Godly and artistic creations, brought together by some wealthy impresarios like Henry E. Huntington’s Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino/Pasadena and Knud W. Jensen’s Louisiana North of Copenhagen. I assure you none of these can compete with Inhotim.


Brumadinho

The venue, officially called Instituto De Arte Contemporânea E Jardim Botânico, is located prima facie unexpectedly in the outskirts of Brumadinho, a village in Brazil’s federal state of Minas Gerais amidst a depressing minors’ region. It is located about 60 km / 37 miles from Belo Horizonte, the capital of the state of Minas Gerais.

Despite its isolated location, it attracts art aficionados from around the world – who are willing to undertake the trip from Belo Horizonte; by car, public bus or organized by a shuttle.

Green, green grass of….Brumadinho.

The district of Brumadinho – this name derives from bruma which translates to mist – was founded in 1923 and populated by miners and their families.
The founder of Inhomit, Bernardo Paz de Mello, was born in 1949 in the very district of Minas Gerais and made his fortune here, Being very attached to this region, he bought land here where he not only installed his ambitious art venue, but also made his home.

Brumadinho and its approximately 20,000 inhabitants gained notoriety this year on 25 January when a tailings dam collapsed which led to a mudflow that buried houses in a rural area near the city. About 186 people were killed.


Inhotim

Inhotim – what an unusual name, right?! It is said, that the land that Bernardo Paz began to buy up once belonged to an Englishman the locals referred to as ’inho Tim – Mister Tim.

The entire complex of Inhotim, so the botanic garden including all the galleries, is spread over more than 20 square kilometers/ about 5,000 acres located in the northern outskirts of Brumadinho. If you are not exactly gimpy, it’s easy to walk there, however, there is also a local bus between the village center and the gardens.

It is a garden Eden with an indescribable variety of different species of extraordinary plants. The number of different palm trees alone…I think there is no plant on earth that’s not represented in Inhotim. Actually, they were even imported from different places in Asia.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Just look at all these different palm trees. The colorful concrete blocks are one of the most photographed work: Invenção da cor, Penetrável Magic Square # 5, De Luxe by Hélio Oiticica

No wonder it is so beautiful since Bernardo Paz got help from the famous landscape artist Roberto Burle Marx to design the premises.

The gardens, too, are meticulously designed: Between around 5,000 species of plants rivers lakes were dug out and creeks are flowing.

This paradisiac plantation alone would make every trip to Inhotim worth the effort. However, the lush gardens are just a rich setting for amazing architecture housing large galleries and white cubes. There are two dozens pavilions with lots of space even for humongous pieces.

So inside and out, there is an exquisite collection of the most outstanding modern art on display: about 500 works by Brazilian and international artists like Yayoi Kusama, Anish Kapoor, or Olafur Eliasson are being shown.

Paz’ complete collection, however, consists of more than 1.300 works.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
That’s how it all started: Deleite by Tunga

Bernardo Paz started buying the land and building his home that he filled with art in the 1980s. He started buying Brazilian modernist art, but only in 1995, he became serious about it – also inspired and motivated by Brazilian contemporary artist Tunga.

Tunga - Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
View across one of the beautiful lakes at the Galeria True Rouge where one of the strongest works by Brazilian artist Tunga is exhibited.

Slowly but surely Paz extended his activities until in 2002, he founded Inhotim. However, initially, the institution opened its gates exclusively to certain groups. Only in 2006, it was made accessible to the general public and has since then been visited by about 3 million guests.

Today, everything there is special and beautiful and caring and welcoming: whether it’s the repellent that every visitor can use for free or the little cars that take guests from gallery to gallery.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Usually, I don’t tend to take pictures of repellent, but I think it’s such a great service to offer it to the visitors.

Of course, there is free WiFi, but what’s as important and convenient is the high number of sockets you find all over the place to recharge your phone or camera whenever you need it.

There are water faucets at the visitor’s disposal and many clean bathrooms – smelling of lemongrass!

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Some of the water faucets might be already occupied, but don’t worry, the next one won’t be far.

They have a rather fancy restaurant serving an excellent all you can eat buffet for 20 bucks and a cheaper, also buffet style restaurants that’s also good, but more like a cafeteria.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Even the cheaper cafeteria is set up really nicely and with the vertical blades, it’s like outdoor eating with a great view.

In addition, there are a couple of snack and fast food stands. Some shady places – and at a botanic garden like this you find a lot of shady places – are equipped with extraordinary seats made of raw wood.

Of course, there is a gift shop where you can stock up on original souvenirs.

Perfect place for a short – or longer – break: A bench, carved from a huge tree trunk, placed under…a huge tree.
(Photo: Otávio Nogueira from Fortaleza, BR, Inhotim (26164690911), CC BY 2.0)

You can easily spend the entire day there. And that’s what I did without any symptoms of museum fatigue.


Thinking Big and Falling Deep

So yes, the place has a size of 5,000 acres, the collection consists of 1,300 works – think big is definitely Bernardo Paz’ motto. The mining magnate likes to emphasize that he was planning the museum for the next 1,000 years. Well, living in Germany, I must say that people here would get very suspicious hearing this: In the last century, Europe’s experience with over-ambitious men planning for 1,000 years was quite unpleasant

But his over the top gigantomania is not the impresario’s biggest flaw.

Sadly, he doesn’t seem to always live up to his ideals: The man who became a billionaire through a network of mining and steel companies has been accused of breaking a series of environmental laws. Furthermore, he benefited from child labor and according to governmental investigations of ‘slave-like’ working conditions in one of his plants.

Finally, in 2017, Paz was convicted of money laundering and sentenced to nine years of jail.

To keep Inhotim’s name clean, Paz stood down from his position as a chairman of the board of directors.

So while the fact that he’s being convicted of money laundry is even a tad bit funny since it’s such a Latinamerican cliché, the accusations of having damaged the environment – which had a terrible impact on people’s living conditions – and abused his workers are more than disappointing.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Somehow this work created by Adriana Varejão, Paz’ fifth wife, is a great metaphor: As you break the white tiled wall, you discover all the ugly intestines.

Although I still think that Inhotim is a fantastic project, the allegations against Paz do give it a negative connotation. It’s a bit like when you find out that a singer of beautiful, soulful love songs is a child molester – things get tainted.


My eight favorite galleries

But like I said – heaven is a place on earth, and this place goes by the name of Inhotim.

Obviously, I cannot introduce all of the 500 pieces. And to cherish them, you have to see them in person, anyway. So I show you some of my favorite pieces – and hope you like them so that you put Inhotim on your list when visiting Brazil.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
At Adriana Varejão’s pavilion, it’s all about tiles – and be prepared for some bloody disturbing sights.
Together with eight of his friends, the artist Jarbas Lopes traveled in the three cars of his work Troca-troca from Rio de Janeiro to the Museu de Arte Contemporânea do Paraná in Curitiba.
Tunga - Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
True Rouge looks like an assembly of giant hearts – and not the Valentine-kind of hearts.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The installation of sculptures called The Sleeping City looks like a three-dimensional painting by Joan Miró. It has been created by Czech artist Dominik Lang who uses parts of his father’s work, the sculptor father Jirí Lang, referring to the history of Czechoslovakia under Soviet occupation.


Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
It’s not by accident that Swiss-born photographer Claudia Andujar has one of the largest galleries all to herself: Although her photographs are less flashy and spectacular than some of the other works, her pictures of the Yanomami Indios are extremely powerful.

Yes, exactly, there are no intestines, no blood, sweat, nor tears, there are just sumptuous gardens in natural colors, combined in an untamed way – these are the painting by Luiz Zerbini. This one is called High Definition and I like it a lot since it is like a portrait of the plants at Inhotim gardens.
Cildo Meireles’ installation Através is the perfect example for why extremely spacious galleries might be needed: The dimensions are  600 x 1500 x 1500 cm – or more than 236 x 590 x 590 inches; nuff said?!

The installation I am not me, the horse is not mine by South African artist William Kentridge consists of eight film projections which were completed as the artist’s preparatory work for a production of Dmitry Shostakovich’s satirical opera The Nose at the Metropolitan Opera in New York.


My eight favorite sculptures and installations


The pavilions are spacious so that even gigantic artifacts can be exhibited. However, there are pieces so humongous and heavy that they have to be outdoors. 
Here are my favorite outdoor sculptures and installations.
 Invenção da cor, Penetrável Magic Square # 5, De Luxe by Hélio Oiticica
Bernadete Amado, InhotimPorBernadeteAmado, CC BY 3.0
Yayoi Kusama’s Narcissus Garden consisting of 1,500 mirrored stainless steel spheres, was also exhibited at London and New York in 2018.
Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Outdoorsy art by Edgard De Souza – being untitled gives it a pretty long title: Sem título, 2000; Sem título, 2002; Sem título (Bronze 5)
Zhang Huan
Gui Tuo Bei
Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Jorge Macchi’s Piscina ran out of Ns.
The pools – this one outdoors and the indoor pool at Galeria Cosmococa – can be actually used by the visitors.
Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
“Wait”, the weather god said “Chris Burdon’s Beam Drop Inhotim looks even more dramatic in the backdrop of dark clouds.” This sculpture is made of 72 steel beams dropped 45 meters from 150-foot-high cranes into a pit filled with wet cement.
The admirer reflected in the admired: Taking a picture of Cristina Iglesias’ open-air gallery Vegetation Room
Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
And another artsy selfie: Standing in Dan Graham’s Bisected Triangle taking a picture of my reflection and the incredible view. 


How to get there

By public bus: A one-way ticket from the central bus station in Belo Horizonte to the town center of Brumadinho costs R$ 22,15. There are buses at 7 a. m., 11 a. m.  – on Sundays, this bus leaves already at 10 a. m.! – and 3 p. m.  The ride takes about 90 minutes and you can buy your ticket also in advance through the Saritur website.

John Ahearn’s sculptural murals are showing you where to arrive: At the Rodoviária de Brumadinho, the bus station of Brumadinho

Once you arrive at Brumadinho, you can either take a cab, a local bus, or you just walk. From the village center, it’s about 20 to 30 minutes.

On weekends and holidays, Saritur offers a shuttle service from Belo Horizonte and back. It leaves at 8:15 a. m. from the central bus station and gets to Inhotim at 10 a. m. The fare is 41 R$. In the afternoon, the coach leaves Inhotim at 5:30 p. m. and arrives in Belo Horizonte at 19:25 p. m. – this trip costs – for what reason ever – only 37 R$.

There is also a shuttle service organized by the Inhotim people that theoretically serves the venue every day except Mondays. However, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Fridays, there have to be at least four passengers. You can make reservation sending your name and phone to inhotim@belvitur.com.br
or through the website www.belvitur.com.br. If you have questions or want to make sure that the service is available, you can call + 55 – 31 – 32 90 91 80.
Generally, the coach leaves Belo Horizonte at 8:30 a. m. and goes back depending on the closing hours, i. e. 4:30 p. m. on weekdays and 5:30 p. m. on weekends and holidays.

Roundtrip costs 66 R$, only return 35 R$.

Only return has to be bought at Inhotim and is, obviously, subject to availability.


Opening Hours and Admission

The gardens and galleries are open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. – Saturdays, Sundays and holidays to 5:30 p. m.

Entrance fee for adults is R$ 44.00 (13 US$), kids from 6 to 12 have to pay half price and if they are younger than 6, entrance is free; and so is the entrance for everyone else on Wednesdays (except for holidays).

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
If you are ambitious to learn more about all the exotic plants, just let an expert guide you through this Garden Eden.

If you want to use the shuttle carts, you have to pay an extra 30 R$. Especially if you have only one day, you might want to save time by taking advantage of this service.

Charter of a private cart for up to 5 people 500 R$ (150 US$) per day or 200 R$ (60 US$) per hour.

Since Summer 2018, you do not need to have proof of yellow fever vaccination to visit Inhotim. However, to save yourself from disappointment, you might want to check their website or inquire directly regarding the status quo short before visiting.

INHOTIM
Rua B, 20
Brumadinho
Phone: + 55 – 31 – 35 71 97 00
Email: info@inhotim.org.br 


Where to spend the night

Honestly, there is no reason to spend the night at Brumadinho since there are all these convenient options to get to Inhotim just for the day. However, if you prefer to book accommodation there than in Belo Horizonte, I can recommend Hostel Hari due to its proximity to the venue: A ten minutes walk, and you’re there.
Another upside of this place is that the hosts are very kind. They have rooms of different sizes, but the bathroom always has to be shared with other guests.
Nonetheless, it won’t be the poshest place you’ve ever stayed at.

Check out Hostel Hari’s availability and rates*

Wanna read more about great places and impressive art in Brazil? Then quickly go to this post and take your pick!


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Disclaimer: I appreciate that Inhotim did support me by granting free entrance and use of the shuttle carts. However, all opinions on these services are mine and weren’t by any means influenced by my cooperation partner. 

*This is an affiliate link. If you book through this page, not only do you get the best deal, I also get a small commission that helps me run this blog. Thank you so much for supporting me!

The Voice of Colors: Rita, Eduardo, and Jorge in Rio

Streetart is becoming more and more not only tolerated, but recognized and promoted. Especially in South America, it has a long tradition – as a medium where colors give the people a voice.

#favelismo – an art movement turning poverty and humiliation into power and pride. That’s what great street art stands for.

I’m introducing Rita Wainer, Eduardo Kobra, and Jorge Selarón, three of the greatest urban artists that left ineradicable traces in Rio de Janeiro.

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Büdelsdorf Revisited – bye:myself at the NordArt 2018

(Updated August 2018)

The NordArt is a very nice art event – of course, not to be compared to the documenta, let alone the Biennial in Venice. But yes, they show a great variety of international art and has been one of the largest exhibitions of contemporary art in Europe. So I like it.

Apart from the annual changing exhibitions, some of the works – especially the sculptures in the gardens – stay for longer…like this NICHTS-sign – by the way, nichts means nothing and is therefore exactly the opposite of what you actually get to see at the Kunstwerk Carlshütte.

What I actually love about the NordArt is the location: Büdelsdorf! Even for German-speaking people, this name is quirky and fun and sounds like someplace for rednecks in gumboots clomping over the fields checking if the potatoes are good to harvest yet.

Size Doesn’t Matter

Actually, Büdelsdorf – by the way, ‘Dorf’ means village, this already tells you a lot – is sort of a suburb of sort of a small town in Northern Germany, a bit over 100 km / 62 miles from Hamburg. If you happen to go to Denmark by train, you might have a whistle stop there – otherwise, I’m afraid that people who live more than five miles away have never heard of it.

Welcome to Büdelsdorf – home of international art….and international cuisine (note the ‘restaurant’ to the right)

So the fact that an art fair takes place on a regular basis at this suburb of a small town is quite hilarious. Of course, there is a story to it:

In 1827, the foundation of the iron foundry Carlshütte was the first industrial plant of the duchies Schleswig and Holstein; today the federal country of Schleswig-Holstein.

After the long trip out here and an extended visit, one can enjoy a snack or some homemade pastry at the cozy ‘Alte Meierei’, the Old Dairy.

As it was finally closed down in 1997, the huge premises with the foundries and the historic living and management quarters were acquired by Mr. Hans-Julius Ahlmann, an associate at the globally operating ACO group. He initiated the Kunstwerk – artwork – Carlshütte where now concerts, lectures, film screenings, theater plays, and, obviously, exhibitions are taking place.

The NordArt

Since 1999, every summer the NordArt takes place and became one of the largest European shows of contemporary art.

Casey McKee Irrational Exuberance
This artist has been a great discovery at this year’s NordArt: Casey McKee comes from Phoenix/Arizona, but is living and working in Berlin. I really like the impression of his photo-based paintings and hope to get to see more of his work.

Every year, there is an open call. 3,000 artists from 105 countries from all over the world applied for the NordArt 2018.

Another painter that impressed me quite a lot is German Petra Sabine Anders. A bit in the style and tradition of Lucian Freud, the characters she’s depicting do certainly not meet our ideal of beauty anymore, but their appearance seems to tell fascinating stories; Anders insinuates this also in her titles: The Dancer (left) and And in Greifswald He Played the Just (right)

The jury has chosen 200 artists that now have the chance to show their paintings, photographs, videos, installations, and sculptures at….Büdelsdorf; it doesn’t get old.

Now, this is totally bizarre: At first glance a normal collection of butterflies,….
….but as you take a closer look, you see that it’s all heavy military equipment such as submarines, helicopters, and tanks; upside down and mirrored.
Rotem Ritov, an artist from Israel, not only made these ‘critters’, she also classified and labeled them accordingly.
Rotem Ritov Monarch Migration 

If you think, wait a minute, isn’t this year as special on?, you are absolutely right: The NordArt celebrates its 20th anniversary; and I personally hope that there are many more to come.

Gilles T. Lacombe Everything Must Go
Monsieur Lacombe always showed some pretty installations, but the one he’s presenting us this year might be the most disturbing one so far. I don’t know, somehow it’s the year of creepy over there in….Büdelsdorf.
(Photo: ⓒNordArt2018. Michal Gabriel) 
Finally something not that disturbing, however not shallow: Five gigantic pens by Kemal Tufan from Turkey.
Pen With Books, Pen With Poem, Pen With Gasmasks, and Pen With Reading Glasses.
If you know what the last one is made of, please drop me an info.
Although Kemal Tufan has been another good discovery, it’s not really surprising. On my travels to Turkey, I’ve seen so much fresh and daring contemporary art that my expectations regarding Turkish artists got very high.

Update: Beginning of August 2018, the NordArt released a very informative and inspiring video on the making of this mega event.

 

The Country Focus

The NordArt isn’t just a random exhibition. They have a very elaborated and inspiring concept: Apart from the ‘regular’ show, every year, they put the focus on a particular country.
This year’s Country Focus is on the Czech Republic.

František Matoušek aka Francis de Nim Františka.
Painting his hyper-realistic portraits on torn denim gives them an unexpected appearance.
Michal Gabriel Eye To Eye
Michal Gabriel Birth of Venus
(Photo: ⓒNordArt2018. Michal Gabriel) 

However, Czech artists are widely introduced at the Kunstwerk Carlshütte, anyway. Besides the old factory buildings, there is a huge garden filled with truly outstanding sculptures and installations, and many of those are made by Czech sculptors.

Permanent exhibition of sculptures at the very spacious gardens: Jiří Štaněk Divan

Many of these masterpieces are at Büdelsdorf for good – although some ogres seem to shuffle them around a bit between summers.

In 2016, Liu Ruo Wang’s iconic work Original Sin 2011 – 2013 was displayed as one of the center pieces on the big lawn of the Carlshütte’s park.

In 2017, Ruo Wang’s ape-men were looking up into the sky at the bus stop in front of the Carlshütte’s main entrance. I wonder how they put these iron cast sculptures there – assuming that they did not walk across the street by themselves.

By the way, I really love to see some stuff from the previous year again along with all the new art they gather.

The Focus Artist

Besides the Country Focus, there also a Focus Artist – who by a pure incident, in 2018, happens to be a Czech sculptor; e. g. in 2017, the Country Focus was Denmark and the Focus Artist was Czech enfant terrible David Černý.
Anyway, this year’s Focus Artist is the sculptor Jan Koblasa who sadly passed away last year. The Kunstwerk Carlshütte honors this artist who was highly involved in the NordArt’s conceptualization, organization, and activities.
Jan Koblasa and his unique form of sculpture – raw and at the same time very tender – will be dearly missed.

Lying in state: Lenin, Mao, Hitler, Stalin.
Jan Koblasa: The Demons of the 20th Century
In the front La Traviata II, in the back Adam and Eve with the Snake
While at the special exhibition in Jan Koblasa’s honor only his wooden work is being shown, in the garden, there is a permanent iron cast exhibit called Wailing Wall 

The Chinese Connection

Another recurring segment is the presentation of Chinese artists – organized for years in cooperation with the Chinese embassy and some Chinese culture institutions.

This year, however, the Chinese participants are presenting rather…quirky to creepy artwork – especially XIANG Jing’s sculptures are pretty disturbing.

It’s not because of the nudity, it’s the style that makes this arrangement eerie.
 XIANG Jing Are A Hundred Playing You? Or Only One? (Series Naked Beyond Skin)
But also LIU Fei’s painting series Women & Guns is not particularly dainty (this one is No. 29).

Once more the macabre group – in front of an even more terrifying wallhanging by ZHANG Dali Man and Beast.
Yet another jolly bunch of ladies, depicted by LIU Fei Women & Guns No. 30

The Visit

If you are interested in visiting this outstanding show this summer and need more information, you’ll get all the relevant info here.

The Cheap and Comfortable Daytrip

You get to Rendsburg by train from Hamburg in less than 90 minutes, from Berlin in about 3,5 hours (via Hamburg). From the train station, it’s 15 minutes walk to the Kunstwerk Carlshütte.

Here’s a special tip for you Germany-travellers: For about 25 Euro you can travel an entire day by train within every federal country; but you are only allowed to take the regional trains, not IC or ICE. The best part is: each further person pays only 4 Euro, up to 5 persons can travel on one regional day ticket. Due to its central position, Hamburg is automatically included in three tickets (Schleswig-Holstein, Mecklenburg Western Pomerania, and Lower Saxony (that includes also Bremen)). Büdelsdorf is in Schleswig-Holstein, and the day ticket for one person is 28 Euro.

If you like the idea of the NordArt, you might wanna check out last year’s post on the NordArt 2017.

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Guide to BELO HORIZONTE | BRUMADINHO | INHOTIM

(Updated February 2019)

While studying Portuguese in Rio de Janeiro, I thought it might be a good idea to take a trip to Belo Horizonte at the weekend; mostly because I wanted to see Inhotim, a botanic garden full of contemporary art.

Belo Horizonte / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Young Belo Horizontians drumming with vigor.

Turns out, Inhotim was the only spot worth the travel. But so worth it!

Belo Horizonte

Still let me tell you a bit about Belo Horizonte, although I would never recommend to actually plan a trip there. If you happen to pass through, make sure you don’t miss going to see Inhotim – but we get to that later.

Going to Belo Horizonte by bus from Rio de Janeiro takes about six hours which I find a bit too long for a weekend trip. I was lucky to get really cheap tickets for about 70 US$ round trip – I booked about six weeks ahead.

Belo Horizonte / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Going to Belo Horizonte, the views of Minas Gerais from way up high was the most alluring sight of the day.

Like many other Brazilian cities, Belo Horizonte has two airports, one close to the city and about 30 km / 19 mi north. Hence, here comes my first advice: Don’t take the bus that goes to the bus terminal. I thought it would be a good idea since ‘bus terminal’ sounds centrally located. Well, it is, but it is also located in a very bad area. Plus the bus that goes there is the cheap bus for the poorer crowd and it stops at every corner and it takes forever to finally arrive at this shady area.
It’s far better to take the airport shuttle – that costs next to nothing more – and go to Connection Airport Terminal at Av. Álvares Cabral 387, that’s a bit less depressing and dangerous.

Belo Horizonte / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
A young street vendor selling flip flops on a sidewalk in Belo Horizonte.

Belo Horizonte’s artery is the Avenida Afonso Pena where you find many stores and restaurants. It’s central point is the Praça Sete de Setembro, honoring the centenary of Brazil’s independence. While the square is just an obelisk marking the city’s zero point.

Igreja São José

One bloc down south you’ll see to your right the unusually colored Igreja São José, St. Joseph’s Chruch, founded in 1904 and finished in 1912. At the next bloc to your left already begins the quite nice Parque Municipal Américo Renné Giannetti, the central park.

Museu Mineiro 

There are a couple of interesting exhibitions, especially regarding the history of the miners: Belo Horizonte is the capital of the federal state of Minas Gerais, translated as general mines. As a matter of fact, in Minas Gerais – a territory as large as France – you can find a large variety of different mines and extraction fields.

Museu Mineiro
Avenida João Pinheiro 342
Belo Horizonte
Phone: + 55 – 31 – 32 69 11 03

The museum is open from Tuesday to Friday from 10 a. m. to 7 p. m., weekends from noon and Thursday from noon to 9 p. m.


Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil

Another nice place worth visiting is the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, a cultural center financed by the oldest and largest Brazilian Bank. They run cultural centers in various Brazilian cities, and in Belo Horizonte the elegant building alone is worth a visit.

Of course you feel welcome at this grand hall.
(Photo: Vagner Costa/CCBB)

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Belo Horizonte
Praça da Liberdade 450
Belo Horizonte
Phone: + 55 – 31 – 34 31 94 00
Email: ccbbbh@bb.com.br

The center is open from Wednesday to Monday from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m.

Feira de Arte e Artesanato da Avenida Afonso Pena

What I’ve liked best in Belo Horizonte was the Feira de Arte e Artesanato da Avenida Afonso Pena, an arts and crafts fair that takes place every Sunday from 8 a. m. to 1 p. m. on the Avenida Afonso Pena between Rua da Bahia and Rua dos Guajajaras. It’s not touristy at all, you can buy literally everything you might need in your house – and the best part are the food stands selling really good Brazilian street food.

Belo Horizonte / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The market on Avenida Afonso Pena is one of very few treats Belo Horizonte holds for its visitors.

So yes, there are certainly some things to do, but I’ve found the city extremely run down and depressing. The number of obviously deranged, intoxicated people squatting and camping in the streets was overwhelming. I didn’t feel comfortable at all.

I spent one night and took the bus to Brumadinho the next morning.

I don’t know how many buses are actually going from Belo Horizonte to Brumadinho since it’s really not that far. Since I had to make sure to catch my plane the next day, I made reservation online and went with Saritur.
It’s also possible to book a day tour from Belo Horizonte straight to Inhotim and back in one day, but I wasn’t so crazy about getting back the same day…

Brumadinho

As I learned from my friendly, hippie-ish landlord, ‘bruma’ is the coal dust – and that’s where the town of Brumadinho got his name from – must be something like ‘Little Coaldust’…

Brumadinho, a friendly little town – about an hour by bus from Belo Horizonte.

I didn’t get to see much of the town itself since I was rushing more or less straight to Inhotim, but what I saw looked tranquil and nice and if I ever come back, I will skip Belo Horizonte and go straight to this cute little place.

I managed to get a room at a guesthouse within walking distance to Inhotim, so that was a plus. The hostel is cute and the hosts get out of their way to make you feel welcome, but unfortunately I must say that it’s not very comfortable: There is only one bathroom for up to eight people, the walls and doors are paper thin so when people are talking or watching TV in the communal area, it’s like you are sitting right next to them. This would be fine and dandy for a hostel-price, but not for the 120 R$ (36 US$) they charged. The night before I paid less in Belo Horizonte for an executive room with all the hotel standards (private bathroom, A/C, TV, fridge etc.).

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
One of the venue’s best views: Groups of different palm trees and one of Inhotim’s most famous outdoor sculpture,  “Invenção da cor, Penetrável Magic Square # 5, De Luxe” by Hélio Oiticica 

Anyway, I wasn’t there to hang out at the hostel, I was there so Inhotim could kill me softly with its beauty. And it did, my gosh, how it did!

Inhotim

It all started in the mid 1980 when Bernardo de Mello Paz, one of the few people who could actually say ‘yes’ if rhetorically asked whether he owns a mine, began to establish on his huge piece of land outside of Brumadinho an exquisite botanic garden containing rare and precious species of plants, beautifully arranged on hills and around ponds.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The gardens alone are worth the trip to Inhotim.

This man has a very good taste. In plants, but also in art. Therefore he arranged his art collection, one of the most significant collections of contemporary art in the world, on these premises.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
“Deleite” by Brazilian sculptor Tunga was one of the first pieces in Bernardo de Mello Paz’ collection.

There are about 500 works by Brazilian and international artists from about 30 different countries on display; in the gardens and in special galleries.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
In 2009, international super star of dots, Yayoi Kusama, contributed her work ‘Narcissus Garden’ that was nominated for the First Mies Crown Hall Americas Prize, granted by the Illinois Institute of Technology.

There are huge sculptures and installations that would never fit in a gallery.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Where else could Chris Burdon show his “Beam Drop Inhotim”, made of some not exactly delicate steel beams? At Inhotim, there’s enough space even for the largest sculptures.
When the dark clouds approached, the installation looked even more dramatic.

There are huge sculptures and installations that do fit in a gallery as long as they can fill the whole room undisturbed.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Another one of Tunga’s quirky installations: “True Rouge”. At Inhotim, they reserved an entire gallery building for this sculpture.

There are sculptures and installations that form a nice, almost symbiotic togetherness.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Symbiosis of nature and art and the visitor – all in one single selfie (in case you wonder:  I’m standing in Dan Graham’s “Bisected Triangle” – made of glass and steel – taking a picture of my reflection and the incredible view behind; no filters, no editing involved!)

At Inhotim, there is room for all of this. Since there is space, lots and lots of space.

Yes, you have to do a lot of walking, but if you get too tired, there are lovely young people driving you around in little carts.

Anyway, Inhotim is good to you: there are sockets to recharge your phone or your camera, there is free WiFi. There are many clean bathrooms and many water faucets so that visitors do not necessarily have to buy overpriced drinks; which aren’t overpriced at all, anyway.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Even from the cheaper cafeteria you can enjoy good food – and of course the great view.

There are two restaurants, on more upscale (whereby you get an excellent buffet for about 20 US$ which you’d never get at this price in Europe or in the US) and one more a cafeteria. In addition there are snack bars and ice cream parlors. And lots of shady spots to relax for a while – some equipped with wooden deck chairs or cute lounge chairs, others with extraordinary seats carved in raw wood.

INHOTIM / bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
A huge bench made of a humongous tree trunk in front of a…humongous tree trunk.

I’ve been to Louisiana north of Copenhagen – and it was really nice.
I’ve been to Huntington Garden and Library at San Marino in the outskirts of Los Angeles – and it was really very nice.
But none of these places can compare to Inhotim.

INHOTIM

Rua B, 20
Brumadinho
Phone: + 55 – 31 – 35 71 97 00
Email: info@inhotim.org.br

Open Tuesday to Friday from 9.30 a. m. to 4.30 p. m., weekends and holidays till 5.30 p. m.

Entrance fee is 44 R$ (13 US$), use of the carts an additional 30 R$  (9 US$) (highly recommended) Charter of a private cart for up to 5 people 500 R$ (150 US$) per day or 200 R$ (60 US$) per hour.

Important: You cannot visit the premises without proof of yellow fever vaccination!


Update: Since Summer 2018, you do not need to have proof of yellow fever vaccination to visit Inhotim. However, to save yourself from disappointment, you might want to check their website or inquire directly regarding the status quo short before visiting.

Wanna know how I perceived Belo Horizonte, Brumadinho, and Inhotim the day I got there? Check out this lesson of my Class of Brazil series:

Class of Brazil – 3rd Lesson: It is a Hellish Path to a Heavenly Place

Do you want to read about all the other cool places I’ve visited in Brazil? 
Then go to the main post and take your pick!



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Class of Brazil – 3rd Lesson: It is a Hellish Path to a Heavenly Place

They say that the way to hell is paved with good intentions. Well, I don’t know about that, but I know that a hellish trip can take you to a heavenly place.

Tunga - Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
View across one of the beautiful lakes at the “Galeria True Rouge” where on of the strongest works by Brazilian artist Tunga is exhibited. Tunga’s work was one of the first purchases for Inhotim.

Tunga - Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
This is what’s inside: “True Rouge” looks like an assembly of giant hearts – and not the Valentine-kind of hearts.

Although this weekend the Carnival is in full swing in Rio, I decided to take a trip to Belo Horizonte in order to visit Inhotim; according to my schedule it was the only chance to see it on this trip.

Weekend Trip to Minas Gerais

So on Friday, I packed a little bag and left Dona I. for three days. My flight was only in the early afternoon, enough time to stroll a bit around in the Centro – a rather commercial neighborhood, but with many homeless people squatting around and the smell of excrements and vomit lingering through the side alleys. Not to compare with the middle class neighborhood I’m staying at – way different! Seems like I know very little about life in Rio yet.

Rio de Janeiro Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Although the ‘Real Gabinete Portugues de Leiture’ – the Royal Cabinet of Portuguese Literature – at Rio’s Centro is a charming colonial building, its surroundings are not royal at all – even not bourgeois.

Arrival in Belo Horizonte – at an airport about 30 km / 19 miles from the city.
Inconvenient, yes, but there are several buses. I took the one going to the main bus station – being the most conveniently located stop.

Flying Latam in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Tchau, Rio, I’ll be back on Sunday.

Good thinking, but it is also the stop where the simple folks go. Hence it was a bus that stopped at every street corner, getting blocked in traffic – it took forever, the journey was not exactly scenic, and I ended up in one of the most run down parts of Belo Horizonte; which in general seems to be a very run down city.

Belo Horizonte Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The only pleasant scene worth photographing in Belo Horizonte was this police man conducting a group of young drummers (although he looks like threatening to beat them up)

It’s quite shocking how many people are homeless in Brazil. Although I know that some people from the lower middle class do live in Favelas, too, I thought that the poorest of the poor have their homes there. But obviously the poorest of the poor don’t have a home at all or their home is a very dirty blanket on a sidewalk. Like I said, shocking.

I don’t like Belo Horizonte. It’s not just that it’s run down – it has an unpleasant vibe to it. I cannot explain it any other way, I feel alienated there, not comfortable at all.
I began to doubt my weekend plans. Was it worth all the money and the effort to come to this hellhole?
Well, one never knows before one knows.

After a short, nervous night at an ok hotel I hopped on the bus to Brumadinho – knowing I would like it since already the name is cute. But its strongest suite lies in the outskirts: Inhotim.

Inhotim

So by now you probably would like to know what this Inhotim thing is that I’m obsessing about.

Inhotim is the name of a botanic garden spread over about 1 square kilometer / about 0,4 square miles located north of Brumadinho, a miner’s town about 60 km / 37 miles from Belo Horizonte. It is a garden Eden with an indescribably variety of different species of extraordinary plants. The number of different palm trees alone…I think there is no plant on earth that’s not represented in Inhotim; well, I think I haven’t seen daisies.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Just look at all these different palm trees. The colorful concrete blocks are one of the most photographed work: “Invenção da cor, Penetrável Magic Square # 5, De Luxe” by Hélio Oiticica 

This paradisaic plantation alone would make every trip to Inhotim worth the effort. However, the lush gardens are just a rich setting for an exquisite collection of the most outstanding modern art: about 500 works by Brazilian and international artists alike (from about 30 different countries) are on display; the collection, however, consists  of over 1.300 works pieces.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Outdoorsy art by Edgard De Souza.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Jorge Macchi’s “Piscina” ran out of Ns.
The pools – this one outdoors and the indoor pool at Galeria Cosmococa – can be actually used by the visitors.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
“Wait”, the weather god said “Chris Burdon’s “Beam Drop Inhotim” looks even more dramatic in the backdrop of dark clouds.”

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
At Adriana Verjao’s pavilion it’s all about tiles: Here the harmless version of monumental Azulejos.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
You should have never had the guts to smash that wall.
Gut-filled tiled wall – also by Adriana Verjao.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Visitors can be excellent extras: Two hipsters photographing Adriana Verjao’s tiles.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The installation of sculptures by Czech artist Dominik Lang are like a three dimensional painting by Joan Miró.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
It’s not by accident that Swiss born photographer Claudia Andujar has one of the largest galleries all to herself: Although her photographs are less flashy and spectacular than some of the other works, her pictures of the Yanomami indios are extremely powerful.

Although Inhotim was founded already in 2002, after four years of opening its gates exclusively to certain groups, it was made accessible to the general public in 2006 and has since then been visited by about 2 million guests.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
The combination of nature and art inspires also visitors to be creative: Here I’m standing in Dan Graham’s “Bisected Triangle” taking a picture of my reflection and the incredible view. 

Everything there is special and beautiful and caring and welcoming: whether it’s the repellent that every visitor can use for free or the little cars that take guests from gallery to gallery – even if you don’t mind walking: the space is really copious.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Usually I don’t tend to take pictures of repellent, but I think it’s such a great service to offer it to the visitors.

Of course there is free WiFi, but what’s as important and convenient is the high number of sockets you find all over the place to recharge your phone or camera whenever you need it.
There are water faucets at the visitor’s disposal and a many clean bathroom – smelling of lemon grass!
They have an – by Brazilian standards – expensive, fancy restaurant (an excellent all you can eat buffet for 20 bucks – I know, for us it’s cheap) and a cheaper, also buffet style restaurants that’s also good, but more like a cafeteria.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Even the cheaper cafeteria is set up really nicely and with the vertical blades it’s like outdoor eating with a great view.

In addition, there are a couple of snack and fast food stands.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Some of the water faucets might be already occupied, but don’t worry, the next one won’t be far.

Some shady places – and at a botanic garden like this you find a lot of shady places – are equipped with extraordinary seats made of raw wood.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
In front of this humongous tree the bench does not look too big, but believe me: it’s huge!

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
If you are ambitious to learn more about all the exotic plants, just let an expert guide you through this Garden Eden.

You can easily spend the entire day there. And that’s what I did.
I’m telling you, this place is the forecourt to heaven!

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
Lush plants, cool puddles – beauty attracts all sort of creatures, not just visitors from out of town.

Yes, it was worth the money for the flight, it was worth the two hours on a terrible bus, it was worth schlepping my heavy bag across dull Belo Horizonte. It was even worth getting a light sun burn on my face in the morning and arriving soaked through and through at my guesthouse because in the afternoon a heavy rain came down.
It was worth it all!

Founders with Great Fortunes and Great Taste

I did enjoy Henry E. Huntington’s Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino/Pasadena a lot. I was impressed by Knud W. Jensen’s Louisiana North of Copenhagen. But even these places full of nature’s and artists’ treasures cannot compete with Inhomit, so its founder Bernardo de Mello Paz takes the cake.

Inhotim in Brazil: bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels
That’s how it all started: “Deleite” by Tunga

Too bad I cannot give it to him: currently he’s doing time for money laundry – although he’s pleading innocent.
However, this little fun fact adds a very South American twist to this story.

Wanna know what happened before? Here are the previous lessons:

Class of Brazil – 1st Lesson: We Have it Good

Class of Brazil – 2nd Lesson: Danger Seems Closer from Afar



Note to the curious reader: Like I did during my former trips like e. g. Cambodia, while travelling, I’ll be posting little stories and reflections on my stay. At the end of the entire tour there will be an extended travel guide with all the relevant information including addresses, links etc. 
Until then, just enjoy some special moments with me.



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United Colors of B…iennale

Hard to believe that it’s been already one month ago that I’ve been to Venice on the occasion of the 57th Biennale. Time passes so fast. But it’s a good moment to look back on this marvelous and inspiring visit and show you my favorite works so you save time in case you join the final sprint: The Biennale is on till November 26!

John Waters
One of John Waters‘ three boards why studying art.

I put together my very personal collection of the works that I liked the best. I’ve left out some of the pieces that I’ve already introduced during my daily Venice-posts “…a week in September” and although I’ve sorted the works by country, they are not necessarily from the designated country pavilion.

For instance France: At the Giardini’s French pavilion is an exhibition by Xavier Veilhan, but I liked french-born Kader Attia’s installation at the Arsenale much better so I included that one for France. When I like a certain national pavilion and then particularly liked another artist and piece from that country as well, I included both – like I did for instance with Albania.

It’s a good moment to present this international lineup, since it’s only a retrospective for me – you can still go, the Biennale doesn’t end before November 26, 2017.

Big advantage: prices for accommodation and many services and goods are much lower than in summer, but I still recommend to check in addition my post on how to get more for less on your trip to Venice.

In total I’ve chosen 50 works. To make it more convenient for you, you can get to every country by clicking on the name in the following list:

Albania (Pavilion) Albania (bye:myself’s favorite) Andorra (Pavilion) Antigua and Barbuda (Pavilion) Argentina (Pavilion) Argentina (bye:myself’s favorite) Australia (Pavilion) Austria (Pavilion) Belgium (Pavilion) Bolivia (Pavilion) Bosnia-Herzegovina (Pavilion) Canada (Pavilion) Chile (Pavilion) China (bye:myself’s favorite) Czech Republic/Slovakia (Pavilion) Denmark (bye:myself’s favorite) England (bye:myself’s favorite) France (bye:myself’s favorite) Germany (bye:myself’s favorite) Grenada (Pavilion) Guatemala (Pavilion) Hongkong (Pavilion) Hungary (Pavilion) Israel (Pavilion) Italy (Pavilion) Ivory Coast (Pavilion) Japan (Pavilion) Korea (Pavilion) Kosovo (Pavilion) Latvia (Pavilion) Lebanon (bye:myself’s favorite) Macao (Pavilion) Mexico (Pavilion) Monaco (Pavilion) Mongolia (Pavilion) New Zealand (Pavilion) Peru (Pavilion) Poland (Pavilion) Russia (Pavilion) Russia (bye:myself’s favorite) Scotland (Pavilion) Serbia (Pavilion) Singapore (Pavilion) South Africa (Pavilion) Switzerland (Pavilion) Taiwan (Pavilion) Tunisia (Pavilion) Turkey (bye:myself’s favorite) Turkmenistan/Kazakhstan (bye:myself’s favorite) United States of America (bye:myself’s favorite)


Albania


Albania at the 57 Biennale
Three blurry paintings by Leonard Qylafi from the series Occurrence in Present Tense


Edi Rama
Edi Rama has been Albania’s prime minister since 2013 and besides being an artist, he’s also a writer and used to be a basketball player. I live in a country where the chancellor used to be a physicist; that’s only hot on ‘The Big Bang Theory’.



Andorra

Eve Ariza
Eve Ariza named her installation Murmuri (Mutter). Each of the clay bowl has its own ‘voice’.


Antigua and Barbuda

Frank Walter
Frank Walter was not only a painter, he was also a poet and writer. To honor that I took a picture of his old typwriter in front of his naiv, very Caribbean paintings.

Argentina

Liliana Porter
El hombre con el hacha y otras situaciones breves (The man with the axe and other short situations) Oh, el hombre con la hacha is a mean little man – and it’s amazing how you can change the scenery by just looking at it from different angles. This work by Argentinian artist Liliana Porter is in my personal top ten; for its originality and its beauty.

Liliana Porter
A teeny tiny lady is fishing in a sea of…chiffon.
Every single exhibit is made in such a ingenious fashion, every single one is a tender tale.
These installations are like illustrations of life.

Liliana Porter
Hardworking little lady – sweeping the fiery red dust. (The figurine is maybe 1.5 inches tall)

Claudia Fontes
The horse problem by Claudia Fontes at the Argentinian pavilion. Although it’s also meant to be poetic, it deems rather tacky – and it’s well beaten by Liliana Porter’s elaborated perspective and esthetics.

Australia


One of the many, many pieces referring to refugees coming ashore is the installation Vigil: using sequences from old Hollywood movies and documentary shots of refugees, Tracey Moffatt lets the film stars suspiciously observe the refugee’s arrival.


Austria

Erwin Wurm
I already pointed out a couple of times how much I like Austrian enfant terrible Erwin Wurm; but to see his – admittedly iconic – One Minute Sculptures yet again…well….I enjoyed his “Drinking Sculptures” – and actually the entire exhibitions –  on my art trip to the Ruhr much more.

Belgium

Dirk Braeckman
It’s funny – Dirk Braeckman is a reversed Gerhard Richter: While at Richter exhibitions people get really, really close to check whether the painting is not a photograph, at this show people get really, really close to check whether the photos are not actually paintings.

Bolivia

Bolivia
Bolivia participated for the first time in the Venice Biennale and presents artists Jose Ballivian, Sol Mateo and Jannis Markopoulos. Maybe it’s because of the debut that the topic is very ambitious and serious thematizing the development and tension of Latin America in relation to the Northern countries. 


Bosnia-Herzegovina

Safet Zec
Safet Zec: Exodus – scenes depicting different scenarios of refugee and the hardship of migration, painted in the narrative fashion of the old masters like e. g. Tintoretto or Veronese. Every single of these tableaus at the Chiesa de la Pietà tells you a story on the protagonists’ hardship and destiny.

Canada

Geoffrey Farmer

Since the Canadian pavilion has to be renovated, anyway, Geoffrey Farmer was free to arrange his destructive yet fun – and literally refreshing – installation A way out of the mirror like a demolition party. Water fountains are exploding entraining everything around.

Chile

Bernardo Oyarzun
Bernardo Oyarzun – from the Mapuche indian tribe himself – is pointing in his installation Werken the oppression of Chile’s indigenous population. 1000 ceremonial masks, made by 40 Mapuche indians, are standing in the center surrounded by 6907 illuminated still existing Mapuche family names.


C
hina


Guan Xiao‘s video David is ironic and hysterical. It sketches the sell out of national art symbols like the David statue from Florence – to be found on cups and towels and T-Shirts and degenerating to be piece of tacky decoration or a marketing scheme. Showing this film nowadays at the Biennale where everybody is running around consuming art, taking pictures without even looking at the works is a slap in everyone’s face; my cheek is burning, too.

Czech Republic and Slovakia

Jana Zeliska
“Plavala husička po dunaji” – there was a goose swimming on the Danube river with her goslings in tow. Seeing Jana Želiská‘s installation, this old Czech children’s song came to mind – although hers are swans: Swan Song Now. And yes, that’s all that there is with this work, and Želiská was criticized for the banality of her installation.


Denmark

Olafur Eliasson
The audience is invited to assemble, together with migrants participating in Ólafur Eliásson‘s project Green Light – An artistic workshop lamps from wood, recycled yoghurt cups, plastic bags and green LEDs. For a contribution of at least € 250 you can take your lamp home. The money doesn’t go into Mr. Eliásson’s piggy bag, but will be donated to a good cause.


England

Paul Benney
Especially at this year’s Biennale I realized what an adequate art venue churches are: the light, the sound, the atmosphere – all this puts the works into a special space. And Paul Benney, creator of somber paintings (he calls them night paintings), shows his impressive chiaroscuro paintings Speaking in Tongues in the murky Chiesa di San Gallo.


France


This Installation by Kader Attia is simply genius: Voices from female Arabic singers make sand vibrate in glass globes. And it actually works only with the voices, it does not vibrate when there are e. g. instruments. Absolutely fascinating! And a clear feminist message, too.


G
ermany

Fiete Stolte
Although the German entry by Anne Imhof even won this year’s Golden Lion prize, I cannot include her since unfortunately I didn’t get to see it. There was only one performance the day of my visit and as I got there it was already over.
So I pick Fiete Stolte‘s copper feet on raw wood called Printed my Steps. I discovered Stolte only recently, but must say: way to go, Fiete (pun intended).


G
renada

Jason de Caires Taylor
There were many really good works at the pavilion of Grenada – many beautifully Ocean related. But I picked Jason de Caires Taylor who created the first under water sculpture park off the West Coast of Grenada in 2006. Especially since this year Damian Hirst causes a sensation with his exhibition ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’ – irritatingly similar to de Caires Taylor’s much older project that in addition was meant to raise awareness for the endangered oceans.



G
uatemala

Sabrina Bertolelli
Sabrina Bertolelli, one of about a dozen artists exhibiting at the pavilion of Guatemala, ‘plants’ unique CONTEMPORARY-FLOWER…!, indeed. 


H
ongkong

Samson Young
Too bad it’s not possible to show the crazy, colorful, hysterical installation Songs for Disaster Relief by Samson Young. Installed in tacky sitting areas songs like “We are the World” or “Do They Know it’s Christmas” are blaring from tube TVs while lights are flashing in bright colors – it’s a zoo; and it’s great!


H
ungary

Gyula Varnai
I guess Hungarian artists don’t have it easy – just like e. g. Hungarian journalists. So why not sticking with peace? It deems political yet doesn’t offend anybody – everyone likes peace, it’s safe. Peace on Earth by Gyula Várnai deems a bit haphazardly, yet I liked the rainbow made of these tacky socialist breast pins.

However, the art nouveau facade of the Hungarian pavilion is at least as nice as the art shown inside.


I
srael

Gal Weinstein used rather unusual materials like mildew, stale coffee and sugar to decorate the pavilion of Israel. It’s said that the installation Sun Stands Still is a critique of civilization – I don’t know, I just found it unusual and interesting how something usually considered ugly all of a sudden becomes beautiful and decorative.


I
taly

Roberto Cuoghi
Jesus industries – from creation to decay: It’s huge, it’s creepy, it’s art; it’s Imitazione di Cristo by Roberto Cuoghi


I
vory Coast

Joana Choumali
Photographer Joana Choumali lets people migrate from one place to another by cutting and pasting. This way she points out in a very touching way how these individuals leave gaps in the original spots and look out of place in the new one. A very emphatic way of sketching the problem and a very interesting artistic translation.


J
apan

Takahiro Iwasaki
Spoiler Alert: Before entering the Japanese pavilion to see Takahiro Iwasaki‘s installation Turned Upside Down, It’s A Forest, make sure to climb the ladder underneath and stick your head in the hole. I don’t tell you more.


K
orea




Cody Choi
Cody Choi decorated the Korean pavilion’s facade so you can’t miss it – and cannot avoid it, either. His Venetian Rhapsody – The Power of Bluff is as flashy as can be.

Lee Wan
The absurdity continues inside with Lee Wan‘s work For a Better Tomorrow amidst Proper Time – Though the Dreams Revolve with the Moon


K
osovo

Petrit Halilaj
Petrit Halilaj‘s wallpaper installation Abetare made of old school books also made it from the Biennale to the exhibition Art and Alphabet in Hamburg. 

Latvia

Mikelis Fisers
The motives are downright crazy and that they are lustrous woodcarvings makes the whole appearance even more wacky. Thank you, Mikelis Fišers, for your exhibition What can go wrong, based on tin foil hat theories.
We have for instance Giant Grasshoppers Massacre Tourists by the Pyramids of Giza
Mikelis Fisers
…or The Last Yeties Protest Against CO Emmission by the Great Wall of China


L
ebanon

Huguette Caland
Of course it’s daring and a feminist act when Lebanese artist Huguette Caland paints nudity and public display of affection on traditional Arabic clothing.


M
acao

Wong Cheng Pou
All sculptures of Wong Cheng Pou‘s A Bonsai of my Dream are very tender and poetic. The one where two guys actually carry the one in the middle through the wall is my favorite.


M
exico

Carlos Amorales
For his installation The Life in the Folds, Mexican Carlos Amorales developed his own alphabet (interestingly the clay letters are pipes) and arranges the letters on big white tables to a story of immigrants; in the video screened in the back the letters come to life and tell a refugee story, too.

Monaco

Michel Blazy: Foret de Balais
Michel Blazy recycles. And by recycling he creates art. In Venice he planted a Foret de Balais, a broom forest.


M
ongolia

Chimeddorj Shagdarjav
A very artistic alternative to swords to ploughshares: just turn them into graceful cranes like Chimeddorj Shagdarjav did: I’m bird – a truly inspiring installation.


New Zealand

Lisa Reihana
When it isn’t about migration and refugees, it often is on colonisation (also some sort of migration, though) and oppression of native culture, customs and traditions just like in Lisa Reihana‘s video installation Emissaries.


P
eru

Juan Javier Salazar
A banner denouncing the leak of progress referring to ‘mañana’ was made by Juan Javier Salazar, calling it sarcastically Land of Tomorrow. Salazar sadly died last year at the age of 61.


P
oland

Sharon Lockhart Little Review
Well, to be honest, the exhibit is not that great, but anything that puts Janusz Korczak and his wonderful and sacrificing work for children into focus deserves at least to be mentioned. Sharon Lockhart arranged her installation around the newspaper by and for children called Little Review initiated by this great man.


R
ussia

Grisha Bruskin
They remind me of the first epic films from the twenties – the deployment of the masses, the esthetics of the totalitarian, the scary play of lights and shadows, Grisha Bruskin arranged his scenes in an extremely theatric fashion.

It’s certainly the interaction between the abandoned, ruinous hall and the screening of a door obviously moved by the breeze filmed by Vadim Fiškin. Together this creates an atmosphere of slow, poetic decay.

S
cotland

RachelMcLean
In Rachel Maclean‘s super fun movie Spite Your Face Pinocchio is trapped in a world of pretentiousness and consumption.

Serbia


Dragan Zdravkovic
On the facade is still written ‘Yugoslavia’ and inside three artists are showing their work at the Serbian pavilion. I’ve picked two extremes: Dragan Zdravkovic‘s ironic, hilarious self-staging…

Vladislav Scepanovic
…and Vladislav Šcepanovic‘s upsetting compositions that he calls ‘Political Pop Art’, depicting – in the fashion of traditional pop art – logos and slogans on one hand, on the other horrific scenes from the world’s trouble spots.


S
ingapore


Zai Kuning
With the sizable ship Zai Kuning focuses on the Malay ethnicity: the orang laut, water people, living on and of the water – nowadays of course endangered by pollution and tourism. Dapunta Hyang: Transmission of Knowledge reminds of the former emperor Hyang.

South Africa

Candice Breitz
Also dealing with the topic of migration, Candice Breitz‘ installation is one of the most touching works: Hollywood stars Julienne Moore and Alec Baldwin are sitting in front of a camera telling atrocious stories of their escape, the way across deserts and waters. In the adjacent room you can see the real narrators on screens. Puzzling effect, that the actors’ tales touch you partly more.


S
witzerland

Teresa Hubbard and Alexander Birchler
Called after his work Women of Venice that he showed in 1956 at the French pavilion, the Swiss pavilion is all about Giacometti: Teresa Hubbard and Alexander Birchler are showing simultaneously two films dealing with Giocometti’s love affair with American artist Flora Mayo – which is controversial given the fact that Giacometti denied all his life to participate in the Biennale at the Swiss pavilion and now there is shown this work of high intimacy.

Taiwan

Tehching Hsieh – One Year Performance 1980 – 1981 (Time Clock Piece) from FACT on Vimeo.
 


Tehching Hsieh is famous for extreme long term performances. This is a video on his project One Year Performance 1980-1981 (Time Clock Piece): Over one year he hourly clocked in and took a picture. Hourly. Day and night. Looking back at his project he stated that “wasting time is my concept of life (…) Living is nothing but consuming time until you die.”


Tunisia

Tunisia - The Absence of Paths
I love art that invites me to participate. Whereby I still wonder what happened to me participating in Adrian Piper’s project The probable trust registry from 2015 – never heard from again.
Anyway, at the Tunisian pavilion you had to answer a couple of questions and were then supplied with a Universal Passport. The Absence of Paths – a beautiful idea – and we Germans are lucky to have such a universal passport, and it’s not only an art project…


T
urkey

TRUE-TREU Argun Dagcinar
One of the most surprising exhibitions was Synesthesia by a team of Turkish designers. Neither the design exhibition at the Palazzo Michiele nor this Turkish section are officially part of the Biennale, but the works by the team TRUE-TREU – exclusively dealing with immigration and refugees – are so unique that a place in this list is well deserved.
A Life Vest? by Argun Dağçınar is the most flashy piece.


Turkmenistan / Kazakhstan

yelena vorobyeva and viktor vorobyev
Shhh, the artist is asleep: At the ‘Pavilion of Artists and Books’ the bi-national couple from the Caucasus Yelena Vorobyeva and Viktor Vorobyev installed a…sleeping artist. 

United States of America

 Sheila Hicks Escalade Beyond Chromatic Lands?!
Art that speaks for itself: Shown at the ‘Pavilion of Colors’ – what could be more iconic than Sheila HicksEscalade Beyond Chromatic Lands?!




?

So these are some of the highlights. During my week in Venice I’ve posted daily about my artwalks. You can follow my steps here:

Great Art in Small Places – bye:myself at the Skulptur Projekte in Marl and Münster

Last Sunday I woke up in Marl. Come on, you can’t say I’m not taking you to the most exotic destinations. Marl – hardly any German person knows where it is, let alone has been there.

bye:myself @ Skulptur Projekte 2017 in Münster
Hito Steyerl: “HellYeahWeFuckDie”
Somehow these art shows are like an alumni reunion: Everybody has been already seen at the Biennal here and the Biennal there or at the documenta…and Munich born super star Hito Steyerl is definitely no exception. After i. a. the 12. documenta ten years ago and the 56. Biennal in Venice last year, she mounted her multimedia installation at the entrance hall of the LBS savings bank.
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge

Since 1977, the Skulptur Projekte takes place only every ten years – and coincides this year with the documenta, the Biennale and many more. This year, there’s an art burst going on!

In 2017 the Skulptur Projekte teams up for the first time with Marl, a town with about 80,000 inhabitants, located in North Rhine Westphalia. A town that was thrown together from a handful of villages without something like a city center; Marl is practically Germany’s Los Angeles  (according to malicious tongue Dorothy Parker “Los Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city”).
No, kidding aside, actually Marl takes the cake for being the most charmless city on planet blue.

Marl Trainstation
Train station Marl – escape route in both directions.

But – there are the sculptures! Marl possesses an unusually vast amount of high class sculptures, many stemming from the much-noticed exhibitions “Stadt und Skulptur” (City and Sculpture) in 1970 and 1972. There are the big names such as Jean Arp, Richard Serra, August Rodin, and the inevitable Henry Moore, but there are also objects by less known artists that are by no means less ingenious.

The sculptures are found around the – artificially excavated – lake and the horrible concrete town hall. However, the major part is to be found on the terrain of the old
graveyard. Sometimes a close look is needed to distinguish the sculptures from the remaining grave stones; you know how good art is: full of surprises.

They offer an excellent interactive map so you don’t miss any of the goodies.

So since this year Münster is collaborating with Marl, under the title “The Hot Wire” six Sculptures are added to their permanent treasure.

Right in front of the horribly concrete town hall, there is the hollow marble block called “Momentary Monument 2017” by Lara Favaretto which should be used as a piggy bank (at the end of the exhibition the block will be shattered and the money will of course be donated).

There is the…well, it doesn’t qualify as an inert ‘sculpture’ since it’s two riders on living horses, a white one and a black one, going in opposite directions. The…whatever you might call it…is by the late Reiner Ruthenbeck and called “Begegnung schwarz/weiß. Re-enactment” (Encounter black/white. Re-enactment).
It was raining on Sunday, so no horsies for me.

bye:myself - Reiner Ruthenbeck, Begegnung Schwarz/Weiß, Aktion, 1997, Münster
The clue of the performance: The entcounter of black and white.
© Photo: Thorsten Arendt

The parking lot is decorated with Thomas Schütte‘s “Melonensäule” (Melon Column) and a “Fahrradständermonument” (Cycle Rack Monument) by Richard Artschwager. Both objects are made (partly) from concrete and hence match the horrible concrete town hall.

bye:myself - Thomas Schütte, Melonensäule, 2017, Marl
Thomas Schütte is very much into fruits and vegetables.
The first of the columns was with made for Münster and it had cherries. Some say it’s because of the cherry red cars that were in fashion at that time, others claim it was for the cherry tree that used to stand in that spot.
© Photo: Thorsten Arendt
 bye:myself - Joëlle Tuerlinckx, Le Tag /200m, Marl, 2017 (Testlauf)
Joëlle Tuerlinckx: “Le Tag /200m”
The white chalk line is connecting the Sculpture Museum Glaskasten and the building of the former primary school.
On this picture you see the test run. Then, every day the janitor has to walk the line and refresh the chalk.
I wonder if the man assumed one day he’d become part of an art project when he decided to become a janitor. Probably he only intended to fix broken sinks, change light bulbs, and carry a huge set of keys around.
 © Photo: Christa Appel

The caricatures burned in wood by Sany (Samuel Nyholm) from Denmark are found on many walls in Marl as well as in Münster.

bye:myself - Sany (Samuel Nyholm), Marginal Frieze / Fallande ting
Sany (Samuel Nyholm): Marginal Frieze / Fallande ting
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge

In the middle of all these nice things, on the ground floor of the horrible concrete town hall, there is the Sculpture Museum “Glaskasten” that actually is – like its name suggests – a glass box. They have a very interesting permanent collection and amazing temporary exhibits. Complementing the brouhaha about the Skulptur Projekte 2017, they show some witty objects on loan from the LWL Kunsthalle in Münster.

bye:myself: Skulpturmuseum Glaskasten
Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster: “11 Fragments from “Roman de Münster””
Skulptur Projekte 2007 / 2017
Alighiero Boetti and Michael Asher

And in the basement there is a collection of many, many prototypes of sculptures that were submitted for the Skulptur Projekte in the past and present. A superb overview.

Prototypes at the Skulptur Museum Glaskasten
Enthralling overview of sculpture prototypes in the basement of the Skulptur Museum Glaskasten.

During the event, that started on June 10 and goes on till October 1, there is a special shuttle bus between the two
cities, but it’s a very limited service: exclusively on Sundays,
starting at Münster at 10 a.m. and going back from Marl at 2 p.m., which
gives you three hours in Marl; that’s a lot. I took the train.

 bye:myself - Cosima von Bonin + Tom Burr, Benz Bonin Burr
Cosima von Bonin and Tom Burr: “Benz Bonin Burr”
Watch out, Henry Moore! The young generation of wild and free artists might pack your sculpture in the big black wooden crate and move it away in no time.

The low loader is standing at the backside of the LWL Kunstmuseum, the central point of the Skulptur Projekte. Here you get all the information you might need, next door you can rent a bike or catch the shuttle bus to Marl.
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge

I guess in Münster they had to place some of the sculpture just where there was space – there is no real golden thread guiding you, and even with the map they sell for 3 € finding certain pieces is not granted: they just sprinkled the map with red dots. You have to read the address and description on the map’s back to get a good hint where to search. In general larger groups of people indicate the position of an art object. But beware, I also accidentally joined a group buying a ticket for a car park…

Here is just a random overview of the art works I liked the best – and I spare you this wretched ‘The 5 best blablabla not to be missed’ I hate on blogs. It’s five randomly picked pieces I liked, listed in no particular order. Period.

 Hervé Youmbi, Les masques célèstes
 Hervé Youmbi: “Les masques célèstes”
Although I have a thing for queer – especially when it comes to art, sometimes it’s nice and comforting just to enjoy pretty. And what a treat it was to stumble over these African masks in a park. It’s like they left their usual spot in a Baobab in Cameroon to pay the Westphalian trees a visit.
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge
bye:myself -  Koki Tanaka, Provisional Studies: Workshop #7 How to Live Together and Sharing the Unknown
Koki Tanaka: “Provisional Studies: Workshop #7. How to Live Together and Sharing the Unknown”
Everybody is talking – and writing – about Ayşe Erkmen’s installation “On Water” or everybody’s art darling Jeremy Deller or Oscar Tuazan’s “Burn the Formwork”, and yes, these installations are ingenious and eye-catching, but there are also the modest jewels to be found, and Koki Tanaka‘s Video Workshop is certainly one of them. It’s almost symbolic that it’s hidden in a basement and only accessible from a backyard.
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge
bye:myself Aram Bartholl 3V
 Aram Bartholl: “3V”
Bartholl’s three chandeliers are not only pretty, they are also very clever and sustainable: a thermoelectric device transforms fire from tee candles in electricity, making the LEDs shine.
Go to his Website, just because it’s so cool.
Nicole Eisenman, Sketch for a Fountain
Nicole Eisenman: “Sketch for a Fountain”
Eisenman sketched an extremely unusual fountain, indeed. Instead of the customary elegant nymphs, big, clumsy bodies are hanging around without seeming to be very comfortable. It’s a cute idea, and especially the kids were absolutely delighted.
 © Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge
Bárbara Wagner und Benjamin de Burca, Bye Bye Deutschland! Eine Lebensmelodie
Bárbara Wagner and Benjamin de Burca: “Bye Bye Deutschland! Eine Lebensmelodie” (Bye Bye Germany! A Melody for Life)
I know this phenomenon from the Venice Biennal – sometimes the venue is almost more original, interesting, or even beautiful than the art works exhibited. And if the art work is as original, interesting, and beautiful as the venue, it gets close to perfect. The screening of the video about a couple imitating the cheesy German pop song culture in a ‘real’ discotheque – being far from a hip club, though – is a perfect combination.
Here is a short excerpt that gives you an idea of the true camp video.
© Skulptur Projekte 2017, Photo: Henning Rogge

Another crucial sisterly advice: Rent a bike! Besides being the ‘city of
bikes’, anyway – Münster has about 300,000 inhabitants and 500,000 bicycles – on the occasion of the Skulptur Projekte there are
additional bike rentals – one is just next to the main venue, the LWL Kunstmuseum. I did everything walking and it was a drag and I missed all the cool stuff outside of the town center. So when in
Münster, do as the Münsterians do – get a bike.

bye:myself - Führung durch Münster
They did it walking, too. Guided tours can be booked over the project’s website. Since they are free, people seem to be booking like there’s no tomorrow, and then the tours start half empty (what doesn’t gall only the visitors who didn’t get a ticket, but also the organizers).

Cheap and comfortable day tripping

Here’s
a special tip for you Germany-travellers: For about 25 Euro you can
travel an entire day by train within every federal country; but you are
only allowed to take the regional trains, not IC or ICE. The best part
is: each further person pays only 4 Euro, up to 5 persons can travel on
one regional day ticket. Münster and Marl are both in North Rhine Westphalia.

Great Art in Small Places – bye:myself at the Çanakkale Art Walk in Osnabrück

On the road again – last weekend to Osnabrück, Münster, and Marl. Saturday started with the Çanakkale Art Walk in Osnabrück.

byemyselftravels
Halil Altındere’s “Köfte Airlines”-Billboard stands in front of the Villa Schikkel and was introduced to the public at the Berlin Biennal in 2016 – and reflects of course on the handling of the refugee crises.

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