Guide to the Island of FOEHR – every village a home

Foehr – let me guide you to the island in the Northern Sea where every village is a home. Every village a home – what’s that all about?

Woman leading two horses in the early morning on Föhr.
Idyllic country life bathed by the North Sea.

Well, let me take you to one of Germany’s most popular holiday islands where almost each of the 16 villages’ names ends with the suffix –um. Since this is the Frisian and Lower German version of heim…which translates to home, you can imagine how cozy and homey this North Frisian island is to its….homies.

The Wadden Sea

The National Park Wadden Sea stretches from Den Helder in the Netherlands along the German Westcoast all the way up to Esbjerg in Denmark and is the world’s largest contiguous Wadden area.

Birds on the Wadden Sea off Föhr
As the water goes away, birds can feast on worms, snails’n’shells. Actually, there are six bird sanctuaries on the island, and the one in Boldixum can even be visited.

There are seven East Frisian and five North Frisian islands scattered in the German part. Föhr* is the largest and most populated island with no land connection. I’ve introduced Borkum, one of the East Frisian islands, in another post of this series.

Going to Föhr, you have to take a ferry which adds to the charm.

Ferry from Dagebüll to Wyk
Heavy traffic on the North sea between Dagebüll on the mainland and Wyk on Föhr.

Already while crossing from Dagebüll, the small harbor on the mainland, you’ll spot some smaller isles on the horizon – these are Halligs (singular Hallig), small islets, some unpopulated, some being home to tiny communities like the nine inhabitants of Hallig Gröde, located southeast of Föhr.

Wyk

Wyk is the capital of the island of Föhr and, obviously, one of the exceptions to the –um-rule. More than half of Föhr’s population, i.e. about 8,500 people, is living in Wyk which is also the only town on the island.

Before I keep on, I’d like to emphasize that Wyk is pronounced almost like week in English, whereby you would replace the w by a v – so it’s veek.

Alleys in Wyk, capital of the Island of Föhr
An alley in the center of Wyk.

Everyone gets to Wyk because there are not only shops and supermarkets, a movie theater, and a disco – yes, disco, like in the 1970s – there is also the small harbor from where ferries are crossing by the hour between 7 a. m. and 8 p. m.

Halligs

Also, the day trips to the Halligs around Föhr are starting from here.

Hallig Hooge
Northern Germany is pretty flat, anyway, but the Halligs are the flattest parts of them all. Since they are not protected by a dike, houses are built on small hills so that the inhabitants don’t get wet feet when the Hallig is flooded.

Halligs are small, undiked islets off the coast of Schleswig-Holstein. There are ten of them, and if you can arrange it, it’s totally worth staying another day to enjoy a cruise to these unique, secluded places. You can visit either one of the two largest of the ten German Halligs – which are Langeneß and Hooge – or the smallest one, Hallig Gröde where 19 inhabitants form Germany’s smallest municipality.

You can book for instance the Hallig Royal trip: It takes all day and even includes little refreshments. On this trip – that costs 45 € for adults, 25 € for kids, and 140 € for families, i.e. two adults and up to three kids from 4 to 14 years – you get to see all three islands. But you can also go on shorter trips to just one of the Halligs.

MS HAUKE HAIEN 
Bredstedter Straße 35
25813 Husum
Phone: + 49 – 4841 – 8 14 81
Mobile: +49 – 171 – 770 58 77
Email: info@wattenmeerfahrten.de

Hooded Beach Wicker Chairs

Even if there’s a nip in the air – or a strong breeze – you’ll find shelter in one of the roofed wicker chairs that I love so much.

Hooded wicker chairs on the beach of Foehr
The beach between Nieblum and Wyk. I love these colorful wicker chairs. In this picture, you can see how they recline to different angles – exactly the way you like it…..

They call it a Strandkorb, a beach basket. It shelters you perfectly against the wind while you enjoy the rays of the sun. When it’s warmer, you just push back the roof and – voilà – you have the perfect beach bed.

Renata Green in a hooded wicker chair on the island of Foehr.
…..and I, obviously, like the far-reclining-relaxing angle. (Photo: Mimi Green)

Sleeping On The Beach – In Style

For about four years now it’s even possible to spend the night – or your entire vacation – in a Strandkorb. They developed a new kind that’s a bit wider so it houses two people.

Couple camping on the Island of Föhr
Sleeping on beaches is illegal; unless you spend the night in a sleeping wicker chair.
(Photo: © Föhr Tourismus GmbH / Foto: Jens Oschmann)

You’ll get a key and can spend a romantic and cozy night under the stars.

Woman sleeping in a beach chair on the Island of Föhr
There is room for two in the sleep wicker chair, however, you can also sleep bye:yourself. If necessary, there’s a hood as seen on convertibles.
(Photo: © Föhr Tourismus GmbH / Foto: Jens Oschmann)

There is a bathroom nearby – some of the showers have only cold water, but come on, be a sport! – and if a sudden shower comes down, you can cover the Strandkorb with a hood similar to those of a convertible. This one-of-a-kind accommodation is available during the summer season from May till September.

Föhr’s Past

It’s certainly interesting to learn a bit more about Föhr’s history, and the Dr. Carl-Häberlin-Friesen-Museum, the Frisian museum at Wyk, is the perfect place for it.

The entrance to the Friesen museum is a gate made of huge whale jawbone.
The entrance to the museum is a gate made of a huge whale jawbone.

Here, you’ll learn about the whale catchers who were active in the 17th and 18th centuries. They are also telling you why so many Föhrers migrated to the United States in the middle of the 19th century.

Friesenmuseum in Wyk
Föhr’s oldest house, built in 1617, dismantled in Alkersum, and rebuilt on the museum’s premises.

You’ll see the traditional attires, furniture, and utensils in three original buildings – one of those is Föhr’s oldest house, built in 1617.
Also, there is an antique post mill. It was brought here from Langeneß, the largest of the Halligs surrounding Föhr.

A mobile mill from Langness at the historic museum on the island of Foehr
The pretty mobile mill on a post.

Dr.-Carl-Häberlin-Friesen-Museum 
Rebbelstieg 34
25938 Wyk
Phone: + 49 – 4681 – 2571
Email: info@friesen-museum.de

Regarding their opening hours, please check their website since these vary according to the different tourist seasons.

Out Of Wyk

So yes, Wyk is a nice little town, but I’m not coming to Föhr to stay in a town – I’m coming for the seclusion and serenity. Obviously, I find these features between the fields and the meadows between all the –ums, those lovely little hamlets and villages. Here, most of the farmhouses are reed thatched and have some wise slogan painted around the doorframe.

Venti Amica on the island of Foehr
Another of Foehr’s windmills is Venti Amica which is Latin for the wind’s friend. What a beautiful name for this mill from 1879 – located in Wyk. Since today, it is privately owned, visiting is not possible.

So come on, jump on your bike and let’s hit the road.

Mimi Green cycling on the island of Foehr
Cycling crisscross the island – what a relaxing way to work out!

Although there are a couple of elevations, namely 17 burial mounds from the bronze age, the island is mostly flat and therefore perfect for cycling. However, it’s an island amidst the northern sea, so even on a warm and sunny day, a strong breeze can make riding a bike pretty challenging. Therefore, I really recommend renting an e-bike that helps you to cycle against the wind when needed.

Wrixum

Leaving Wyk on the route L214 towards the northwest – which sounds much more like a serious road trip than it actually is – you’ll first get to Wrixum, a name that sounds like borrowed from an Asterix-book.

Wrixum’s landmark is the windmill, erected in 1851 and functioning till 1960. At that time, grinding corn in a mill like this simply wasn’t economically interesting anymore.

Wrixum Mill
At this moment, the mill has no wings, therefore there is an association trying to scrape up funds to buy her new ones in order to produce local flour. (Photo: © Föhr Tourismus GmbH / Ruth Pumplun)

After a checkered history, the community of Wrixum bought the mill in 2016 and is now trying to re-animate it. The mill is now heritage-protected and the association is collecting money to buy new wings. The old ones had to be detached for safety reasons.

Eventually, the mill should grind again and the baked goods will be sold at a bakery next door.

Friesenschnitte Cake
Think global, bake local: Bäcker Hansen, a local bakery and pastry chain, will bake with flour from the Wrixum mill. What you see in this picture is a Friesenschnitte, a local cake specialty consisting mainly of whipped cream on a thin layer of plum jam. Two layers of flaky pastry hold them together – simple and simply delicious.

Wrixumer Mühle
Hardesweg 54
25938 Wrixum

You can visit the windmill Sundays at 2.30 p. m.

Oevenum

As you keep on cycling northwest on Hardesweg, turn right into Dörpstrat which takes you straight to the village of Oevenum, island-famous for treats and dainties: There are farm stores where you get the very freshest produce and also a farmers market.

The idyllic village center of Oevenum on the island of Foehr
The idyllic village center of Oevenum.

Homemade candy from the sweet shop Snupkroom, which is Frisian for sweets, are great to enjoy on the spot or to bring home as a souvenir; well, good luck with that….

Candy from the island of Foehr
I love how these handmade candies are North Sea-themed: There is the North German salute Moin and the maritime Ahoj. There are anchors and crabs and fishes….isn’t that…well, yeah: sweet!

Föhrer Snupkroom
Wohlackerum 2
25938 Oevenum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 746 21 38

With your pockets full of snupkroom, keep riding down the Dörpstrat, which by the way translates to village road – these Föhrers really nail it, which eventually leads into Midlumweg and you’ll find yourself in

Alkersum

Alkersum is an –um not to be missed for two great attractions.

Art…

One is the Museum Kunst der Westküste, the Museum Art of the West Coast.

The Museum Kunst der Westküste, the Museum Art of the West Coast on the island of Foehr, seen from the outside.
The Museum Kunst der Westküste, the Museum Art of the West Coast, seen from the outside….

The founder is Dr. Frederik Paulsen Jr. whose father was born in Dagebüll in 1909. As a young man, he had to flee the Nazis to Sweden and Switzerland because of his opposing political ideas. In Sweden, he founded the pharmaceutical company Ferring. In 1997, he died in Alkersum.

The Museum Kunst der Westküste, the Museum Art of the West Coast on the island of Foehr.
….and from the splendid courtyard where you can pause and have a delicious snack from the museum’s coffee shop.

Dr. Paulsen’s art collection is the backbone of the museum that he founded in 2009 in the very village his father died. The museum was installed at the former tavern Grethjens Gasthof which used to be a hangout of German and Danish artists in the 19th century. The exhibition consists of paintings by Edvard Munch, Max Liebermann, Max Beckmann, Peder Severin Krøyer, and many other Nordic masters.

Today, the temporary exhibitions deal with the topics sea and coast.

To the left, a woman's swimsuit from 1910, to the right Paul Wilhelm's painting Children at the Beach in Wyk
To the left, a woman’s swimsuit from 1910, to the right Paul Wilhelm’s painting Children at the Beach in Wyk

The venue, its history, and the art on display are interesting and inspiring and not to be missed when visiting Föhr. About 50,000 visitors per year will certainly agree.

Museum Kunst der Westküste
Hauptstraße 1
25938 Alkersum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 74 74 00

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.

…And The Art Of Food

The other place to visit in Alkersum is not artsy, however, very original: At the farm store Hofladen Hartmann you can buy all sorts of freshly homemade dairy.

Hearty cheese from the island of Foehr
Hearty cheese from the island.

It’s closed?
No worries: Inspired by a candy machine, you can buy their goodies such as cheese and yogurt from a….well, it’s probably called a dairy machine.

There you can also obtain empty glass bottles.

What for?
Well, next to the candy….sorry: diary machine is – inspired by a gas station – a milk station.
Put your brand new bottle in the little compartment, insert one €uro and one liter of fresh milk will pour into the container.
So much fun!

Hofladen Hartmann 
Hauptstraße 9
25938 Alkersum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 24 92

If you prefer to shop the conventional way: The farm store is open Monday to Friday from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. and Saturdays to 1 p. m. On Sunday, you have only the ingenious machines.

Oldsum

So Oevenum is for food, Alkersum for the art – the next village on the road L214 would be Oldsum and that stands for tradition, history, and handcraft: Today, at many of the thatched half-timber houses you’ll find cozy cafés, galleries, and specialty shops selling wool and ceramics, but also jam and other local delicacies.

The thatched mill is Oldsum's most visible landmark.
The thatched mill is Oldsum’s most visible landmark.

In the 17th century, Oldsum was an important whale-catcher village: Commander Matthias Petersen caught 373 whales in his life. Look out for his gravestone in the cemetery around the St. Laurentii church in Süderende – we’ll get there in a moment.

Tomb stone of Matthias Petersen on the island of Foehr
Here’s the proof: 373 whales. Just look at the beautiful engraving!
(Photo: Daniel Ponten, Grabstein matthias petersen, detail, cropped to 2:3, , CC BY-SA 2.0 DE)

Staying at a Frisian House

Talking ’bout whale-catchers: Another one was Arfst Ketels, born in 1808.  When he died in 1884, he left a beautiful house that today belongs to Ms. Marion Koziol – for the record: She is not catching whales.

Frisian House Die Friesin
Up there is the suite: Two rooms, separated by a bathroom. Perfect for families or visitors who need more space.

Marion, who moved to Föhr from Southern Germany, did a great job in restoring the old structures and transforming the house into a real -um, a cozy home. Now, she’s generously sharing it with others by renting three of the upper rooms to guests. As a matter of fact, two are connected to form a suite.

The cozy salon at the guest house Die Friesin
The cozy salon.

And since Marion loves to bake and cook, you can enjoy a wonderful breakfast prepared to your liking before you leave to explore the island and the sea.

Enjoying the generous breakfast before getting ready for a long hike at the Wadden Sea off the island of Foehr
Enjoying the generous breakfast before getting ready for a long hike at the Wadden Sea.

If you like, she awaits you in the evening in the cozy dining room with an opulent dinner like for instance her Frisian tapas, a variety of local delicacies with a modern twist. Prepare for a long, filling, and fulfilled evening!

Cocktails
Foehrer Manhattan: The many that migrated from the island of Foehr to the US brought inter alias the recipe for an Americanized cocktail back with them.
Frisian tapas: Yes, the baked salmon
Frisian tapas: Yes, the baked salmon did taste as good as it looks.

You can check the Friesin’s availability and rates here*

By the way, Arfst Ketels’ gravestone is at St. Laurentii: Northeastern corner, third row.

However, since the Friesin has only two rooms, chances are you might look for another accommodation – and you can conveniently do so on this map*:

Booking.com

Dunsum

As you might remember from my post on Cuxhaven and the hike across the tideland to the island of Neuwerk, I’m a huge fan of the Wadden sea and hiking around in the mud. To me, no visit to the North German coast would be complete without marching in the mud to see all the wonders nature has created and we should cherish and protect.

This mudflat off the island of Foehr
This mudflat is made for walking.

While every guided hike on the tideland is an excursion into wonderland, in Dunsum, they throw in a handful of seals.

You can hike towards the island of Sylt and approximately halfway, there is a sandbar where the chubby, cute gray seals are frolicking in the ice-cold waters or lazing on the sand.

Seals on a sandbar off Foehr
The sandbar between the islands of Föhr and Sylt is the only spot where you can get to the seals hiking. All the others can be only seen from boats.

Crossing The North Sea Walking

Since the waters come and go and there are relatively few people getting to the sandbank, it’s also a dorado for shell collectors. Not only the amount is simply amazing, but they are also unbroken since few feet are trampling around. So if you take this hike and you love to collect shells, bring a big bag with you.

Angel Shell
Since there are relatively few people making it to the sandbar, shelling here is amazing – bring a big bag with you! I particularly like this shell that opens to a pair of angelic wings.

The hike to the sandbar and back is in total about 8 kilometers, the schedule, of course, depends on the tides.

Guide on the island of Foehr
Our guide explains the impact of the sun and the moon on the tides. In only one hour, his drawing will be washed away by the returning waters.

You can get info at the Tourist Information or at the tavern

Zum Wattenläufer
Dunsum
Phone: +49 – 171 – 1 13 36 28

Woman in gumboot on the mudflat
Rent-a-gumboot.

If you want to hike and didn’t take your own gumboots, you can rent them at a little price

Antiquitäten & Gummistiefel-Verleih
Sandwall 58
Wyk
Phone: +49 – 173 – 8 11 56 70

When the weather is warm enough, there are even hikes all the way to the neighboring island of Amrum. Although the distance is only about 8 kilometers, the tidal creek at the end of the hike is thigh-high so that you have to cross wearing beachwear; believe me, you don’t want to do this in let’s say March…
To get back to Föhr from Amrum, you take a ferry.

Of course, you can visit Amrum, Sylt, and many of the Halligs by ferry; but come on, do you really want to miss the opportunity to basically walk on water from isle to isle?!

Süderende

Old house at Süderende on Foehr
Not all the pretty houses are coming in brick walls and blue doors and windows. Here a flashy home at the village of Süderende.

Süderende – although, obviously, not an –um – is, however, also a very cute village with nice houses and most importantly a very impressive Lutheran church, St. Laurentii. The original structure stems from the late 12th century. However, the building was extended for the first time already in the 13th century and underwent a couple of changes. This you can see from the very different bricks and stones.

Saint Laurentii, surrounded by the Talking Gravestones.
Saint Laurentii, surrounded by the Talking Gravestones.

The most fascinating part – of all Protestant churches on Föhr – is the graveyard surrounding the house of worship: You will notice a number of beautifully engraved stones, the so-called Talking Gravestone. Following an old tradition, the deceased’s biography is summarized in artful writing, telling e.g. about the exciting life of the whale catchers.

Gravestones
The anchors give you a hint of the most popular trade at those times.

Also, pay attention to the floral decoration. The family’s men and sons are mentioned on the stone’s left side in some tulip-like flowers. Women and daughters to the right in a four-blossomed flower. A broken flower is telling you that the person died before the family tombstone was finished.

Gravestones
Amazingly well-preserved stones.

These graveyards are very unique and typical for North Frisia.

By the way, the North of Germany is mostly protestant, so there is only one Catholic church on Föhr, the St. Marien Kirche in Wyk.

Utersum

Here you’ll agree with Föhr’s self-proclaimed title Friesische Karibik, Frisian Caribbean: Miles and miles of fine sand along the North sea make this village the epitome of a beach vacation.

Even as the tide is low you can take a dip in a tidal creek.

Facilities such as bathrooms and showers are great – and there are designated beach areas for different needs like a dog beach or even a non-smokers’ part.

Cherishing the joys of summer. All the way in the back, you can spot the island of Amrum on the horizon. (Photo: Pincerno at German Wikipedia, Pincerno - Utersum 1, cropped to 2:3, straightened, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE)
Cherishing the joys of summer. All the way in the back, you can spot the island of Amrum on the horizon.
(Photo: Pincerno at German Wikipedia, Pincerno – Utersum 1, cropped to 2:3, straightened, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE)

Since Utersum is on the island’s very West, not only is there a good view of the neighboring island Amrum. The sunsets here are just spectacular!

Beach
The austere charm of the North Sea.

Witsum

River deep – mountain high: Föhr’s smallest village Witsum is adjacent to the island’s only river, the Godel. The endless fields and the humidity create a unique Biotop, ideal for all the resting’n’nesting birds.

Flocks of birds
Flocks of birds are everywhere on Föhr.

Oh, I almost forgot that one of Föhr’s highest elevations, the 11 meters high Sylvert hill, is also located at Witsum. You see, this tiny village seems to have it all….

A traditional cottage at the village of Witsum.
A traditional cottage in the village of Witsum.

Nieblum

All the -ums are super-cute and have lovely corners, but Nieblum is the prettiest of them all. Consequently, also the most touristy one. Especially since there isn’t only the incredible number of perfectly maintained Frisian houses but also the proximity to the Frisian Caribbean, the Northern sea.

On Nieblum’s beach, everyone finds his or her favorite activity; or passivity in case lazing in the sun is your personal favorite.

Old house at Nieblum on Foehr
Guesthouse at Nieblum

While the whale catchers used to live in Oldsum, Nieblum was for the captains and to this date, it is reflected in the magnificent Frisian mansions. Nieblum as a village, considered Föhr’s most precious gem, won various village competitions for a reason.

Frisian Houses around a Pond in Nieblum on Foehr
Frisian Houses around a Pond.

The cobblestone and pebblestone covered alleys are lined by linden trees and roses in many colors are blooming in the gardens and on housewalls.

Old house at Nieblum on Foehr
Another charming detail is the year of origin on the houses. Note the unique design of the door and the romantic rose tendril.
This is how the reed thatched roofs are made.
Very interesting: This is how the reed thatched roofs are made.

Just like Süderende, Nieblum’s center, too, is dominated by a house of worship, the Saint John church, called the Frisian Cathedral.  It is Föhr’s largest church, built almost 600 years ago.

Saint John in Nieblum on Foehr
Saint John is also surrounded by an old cemetery with Talking Gravestones; however, those of Süderende seem to be more elaborate and plenty.
Tombstones
To the left, a miller’s gravestone. The engraving on the right one shows a woman with two children – I assume she was his wife.

Practical Information

Getting There…

Although Föhr does have an airport and there are regular flights to the island from Sylt as well as from Flensburg and Husum on the mainland, most visitors are coming by ferry via the port of Dagebüll.

Renata Green on the train to Foehr
The trains to North Frisia are not leaving from the main station in Hamburg but from Altona.

It’s not complicated to get e.g. from Hamburg to Föhr, however, it does take about five hours in total since you have to change trains at least once or twice and then wait for the ferry….but I find it’s definitely worth the effort.

Ferry to the island of Foehr
Entering the ferry at the small port of Dagebüll in the federal state of…..Schleswig-Holstein, The ferry’s name pays tribute.

If you are coming from Hamburg or any place within the federal states of Schleswig-Holstein or Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and you are not travelling by yourself, you might want to consider getting a Schleswig-Holstein-Ticket: It costs 29 €uro for one and you have to add another 3 €uro per person travelling with you. So if you are two adults, it will set you back 32 €uro for both of you, if you travel with four other people, you’ll pay 41 €uro for your party of five; not bad, right?!
A child under 15 travels for free with two adults.

Hamburg train station
Here, at the main station in Hamburg, you can see two different regional trains. On these, you can travel an entire day with a regional day pass.

While you can actually travel the entire day within the respective federal state, you are only allowed to take the regional trains – train numbers beginning with RE, MET, etc., but not the interregional trains such as the Intercity (IC) or Intercity-Express (ICE).

One Ticket For Three States

The Schleswig-Holstein-Ticket covers also the federal state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania as well as the city-state of Hamburg.

For other connections and rates, please visit the Deutsche Bahn’s website, it’s available in seven languages.

Once you get to the port of Dagebüll, you have to take the ferry – which goes by the hour between 5 a. m. and 8 p.m.; the last ferry from Wyk back to the mainland leaves already at 6.40 p. m.

The fare is 8,40 €uro one way and 13,60 €uro round trip for adults and 4,20 respectively 6,80 €uro for kids from 6 to 14 years old.

…and Around

The best way to explore the island is definitely by bicycle. Due to the harsh wind, I highly recommend renting an e-bike.

There is very little traffic on the island and usually, people are driving pretty prudently when they see you. So make sure they do. Wear something flashy, turn on the light if necessary, and try to make way when cycling on the road.

Bus on Foehr
Some sort of luxury: There’s a bus even on a Sunday morning.

However, if you are not into cycling, there are two public buses serving the entire island: Number 1 respectively 11 that go around the island on the northern route, getting to the villages practically in the order of this post. Bus Number 2 respectively 22 goes the other way around.

There are further busses at the center of Wyk.

Obviously, you can also explore the island driving – but to me, it does not match the serenity, closeness to nature, and spirit of this beautiful island.

Money

On Föhr you are paying with €uro, obviously. Not every business takes credit cards, but there are various ATMs at Wyk, but also at Nieblum, Oldsum, and Utersum, so getting cash shouldn’t be a problem.

The exchange rate is 1 US$ = 0.94 €UR as of December 2022, but you can check the conversion on this page.

Language

I’d say that most people in Germany have at least a rudimentary knowledge of the English language, many even speak it pretty decently. However, this is neither Berlin nor Hamburg and they cater mainly to national visitors, so don’t expect everyone to be fluent.

For some useful words and phrases, you might want to practice a little with help from e. g. Babbel (the first lesson is for free and already supplies you with useful basic vocabulary).

*Note: In this article, I’m writing out some of the German names and places and you will notice that there are letters that might not exist in other languages. Most importantly for this article, there is the letter ö being pronounced more or less like the u in fur – which actually would be almost how you pronounce the island’s name. 
Then there are also the vowels ä, which is very easy since it’s pronounced like an open e as in head, and ü that is pronounced approximately like the u in huge. 
The letter ß, which exists only in the German alphabet, is by no means a B – it’s a ‘sharp’, double S as in kiss. When writing, you can actually replace it by a double S.

Tourist Info

After having read this post down to here, do you still need further information or have specific questions? Of course, I’m here for you, but more importantly, so are the friendly and knowledgeable people at the Tourist Information.

You can check their informative website or get your info in person at

Föhr Tourismus GmbH 
Feldstraße 36
25938 Wyk
Phone: + 49 – 4681 – 30-0
Email: urlaub@foehr.de

On this map, you get an overview of the island and can see where all the wonderful places that I’m recommending are to be found. Clicking on the slider symbol at the top left or the full-screen icon at the top right will display the whole map including the legend.

This is the second post of a series on five absolutely fascinating islands in North Germany. I hope you’ve enjoyed it. Did it make you curious for more? Then make sure to check out these posts on the other great isles:

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Disclaimer: I appreciate that Föhr Tourismus was supporting my blogger trip by supplying us with e-bikes, booking a room at the B&B Die Friesin and granting access to some attractions. However, all opinions on these services are mine and weren’t by any means influenced by my cooperation partner.

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79 Replies to “Guide to the Island of FOEHR – every village a home”

  1. Thanks Renata for your inspirational “Guide to the Island of FOEHR – every village a home”.
    I just retired and am (finally) planning to start my ‘Bucket List’, which always did include the Island of FOEHR, since it is the place of inception of my Paternal side of the family! I plan to stay at a particular Hotel which (apparently) includes our last name… Your work has inspired me to move this destination up on the list…. Our family has done some research, but none have actually returned/visited since the time my Great Grandfather left for America! I can’t wait to experience the food, culture, flora and fauna, and to walk on the sandy beach of my ancestors… Great Work!

    1. Thank you for your message, Greg! Only when I did research during my last visit to Föhr did I learn how many islanders have migrated to the US. They even named an aperitif in their honor! Föhr is one of my favorite German islands, and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed! All the best – and happy retirement (I cannot wait myself 😉 )!

  2. Quick question – is a guide absolutely necessary for the mud walking to Amrum and to the Sylt/seals? If one knows at what time to go, is it ok to go alone?

    1. As a matter of fact, I would always go with a local guide unless you are meandering close to the shores. The water can come back faster than expected and if you lose your way, you’re in deep sh….water.

  3. I like what you are up to. Such smart work and reporting! Carry on the excellent work! I¦ve incorporated you into my blogroll. I think it’ll improve the value of my site 🙂

  4. Right, that’s it. Spring next year assuming life is fairly back to normal. I’m island hopping around Germany. I have found these posts fascinating. Are dogs allowed on the ferry?

  5. You had me convinced to visit this place with your first line – Föhr – every village a home. It is such a charming place for anyone wanting to visiting the coast. Like many I too love the wicker chairs and beds on the beach. I can laze of the whole day there.

  6. How charming!! I love the wicker chairs and beds on the beach–I would stay there the whole time!! But if I ever actually got out, the whole area looks great and full of wonderful things to do!

  7. This must be one of the most fascinating posts that I have read in recent times. The Island of Fohr is truely mesmerizing. The houses seem to belong to the pages of a fairy tale and are so cute. I liked the look of Wyk too and was enamoured by the thought of sleeping beneath the stars on the beach in a sleep wicker chair. A trip to Fohr seems like a journey into fantasyland.

  8. There’s so much to love about Fohr. I had no idea it even existed. Such a treasure. The hooded wicker chairs are so neat and I love that you can spend the night in them. A dairy vending machine is so much better for you than a candy one. I love so much about this island. Next time I visit Germany, I will have to look into a visit there.

  9. What a charming community! I love that there is so much to do yet it feels like a small town! Adding it to my list!

  10. Wow I’ve never heard of this island. I love going to unique spots so this will definitely be added to my list! I can’t wait to explore more parts of Germany 🙂

  11. Didn’t know about this place until I read your post and so happy I came across this! What a charming place! Loved those beach baskets and those sleeping wicker chairs! I would spend most of my time there haha and also recline it to the maximum just like you! That’s the only best way to enjoy those chairs 😉
    I am definitely adding this place and these experiences on my list!

  12. I had read about Fohr’s past. It was a casual read but I liked reading about it. I never imagined that this place will be so peaceful.

  13. Island of Fohr seems like such a beautiful place. I have never associated Germany with an island. This is definitely a hidden treasure and you have presented it so beautifully that it entices you to visit this place.

  14. Wow, Fohr is oozing cute villages. As an Aussie it’s fascinating to learn about smaller island of countries that I’d otherwise have no idea about.

  15. Wow I have never been to Northern Germany and would love to visit one day as it is so different from where my relatives all live in Bayern! Looks so beautiful on the islands and very different from other parts of the country 🙂

  16. Island of Fohr looks very unique due to so many types of houses and natural beauty here. First of all, I love those colorful wicker chairs at Nieblum and Wyk as they really look unique and have shed too. The town of Wyk really looks stunning with beautiful houses and greenery all around.

  17. When most people think of islands, Germany doesn’t pop into mind generally. As someone who has traveled extensively in Germany I can agree with you that each is a hidden treasure with fantastic gems along the way. I love the Strandkorb sleeping baskets where you can sleep right on the beach! This is so cool! Thanks for the really great and informative article!

  18. I’m all for sleeping in a wicker basket chair at Fohr. Plus those windmills are fascinating to me. Thank you for sharing the coastline of Germany–like many others, I had no idea there were so many interesting places to visit.

  19. Great comprehensive article. I had never heard about this island before, although been to Germany a number of times. I now so want to visit 🙂

  20. What an off the beaten path gem! Surprisingly interesting part of Europe it would never cross my mind to see. Thank you for the pronunciation lessons, I learned so much!

  21. I’ve never heard of Föhr but I wish I had known of this cute little island when I went to Hamburg, I’ll have to make my way back to Germany again 😉

  22. Wow, I love how you captured the beauty of the island and its cozy ambiance. The Frisian houses look so amazing! I will definitely add this in my bucket list once we can travel safely again. Thank you!

  23. Such a charming island. I would love to spend a day on the beach in one of those iconic Strandkorbs as well as stroll around the villages and admire the local architecture. Germany is definitely a country of hidden gems 🙂

  24. Those wicker chairs that convert to an overnight bed on the beach are inspired. What a great way to enjoy a night under the stars. They look like a throw back to a different era.

  25. I never knew Germany has such beautiful islands! I would definitely take the train even if I have to change a couple of times. Thank you for introducing the island of Fohr.

  26. All these villages are so pretty and they have interesting names too. We too prefer countryside much more than cities. The beach basket is actually my favorite. It will be fun spending a night in it among the stars.

  27. Island of Fohr is new to me and really loving it from your description. I loved the look of the cottages. The modern buildings look so ug comparatively.

    1. Thank you, glad you like it. Yes, they have the beaches and the sea and the endless fields and the yummy Frisian cake – but the thatched buildings are Föhr's strongest suit to me.

  28. Why such a boring video when foehr has so much to offer, we don't just accomandate for over 80's.

    1. I have no clue what 'video' you are talking about.

      However, I agree that Föhr has a lot to offer and if you are missing something in my post, I'd appreciate you add it in the comments so that everybody can learn from your experience.

  29. I have not heard of the island of Fohr before but I can see why it is such a popular holiday spot. Such a beautiful place to go in Germany.

  30. I had never heard about this place before So, thank you for introducing Fohr to me. Beach looks beautiful. It seems like a peaceful place without huge influx of tourist. Hope to stay there for at least couple of days when I go to Germany.

    1. It's a great place to get away from all the hustle and bustle at the big cities. Total serenity!

  31. I appreciate the aesthetics of the cottages. Especially the roofs. Considering I am coming from Croatia, they look like rue fairytale cottages. It would be interesting to me to spend some summertime on the North Sea instead of the Adriatic Sea.

    1. Yes, it's very beautiful – but so is Croatia. I spent last summer there and fell in deep love with the country. We could swap houses for the summer 😉

  32. The cottages are so picturesque! I love the beach photos and the beach chairs with a cover. This looks like a great spot to spend some time slowing down and relaxing

    1. Me too, I love these thatched houses. The beach chairs are my favorite: They are like tiny beach cabanas with footrests, little tables, space for your belongings – just perfect for a beach day.

  33. Thanks for introducing Fohr to us. I never thought of islands when I thought of Germany. Thanks for the suggestion to take an eBike to explore the islands. This way we could stop regularly at the cute spots you have pointed out. Good do know that you recommend Nieblum as the prettiest of the small towns. A good stop after we have tried the beach at Utersum. Such a cute spot.

    1. I know, most foreign visitors think of mountains and cruises on the river Mosel – and they miss out on so much when not visiting the northern coasts.

  34. Such a great detailed post! I love the idea of the beach sleeping chair, I've never heard of those before, but they sound amazing, just imagine hearing the crash of the waves as you fall asleep!

    1. I was all excited when I learned that they have these sleeping chairs. However, since we were there in April before the season has started, I have to go back to try them out – it must be amazing!

  35. That's nice to get to know some islands in Germany and looks like you had a wonderful and relaxing holiday there! Thanks for the info and hopefully I will get to visit there myself next time! @ knycx journeying

    1. We had a fantastic stay there – cycling between the fields, taking a break in a beach chair, more cycling, overlooking the sea…just soooo relaxing.

  36. I never think of islands when I think of Germany! So cool! I would definitely stay in a Strandkorb, sounds delightful! Thanks for sharing.

  37. I wasn't aware of the island of Fohr, though I knew about Wadden Sea. That's a list of beautiful places in your blog. I have been sold to the idea of spending at least 2 weeks there to explore all.

    1. Actually, if you'd like to explore all the five islands I'll be introducing, that will be two weeks well spent 😉

    1. It depends on what you like. Of course, in summer it's like the epitome of a beach vacation – however, in winter the Nordic islands have their very own charm.

    1. It will be of no surprise to you that the North Frisian islands actually used to be Danish. There is still a Danish minority living in the federal country of Schleswig-Holstein, speaking Danish and keeping up the traditions; and like you said: It's just up the road 😉

    1. Glad you like it: It's the best place if you are looking for a couple of days having the feeling of doing nothing – and still see and do a lot!

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