RIGA – a city break at Latvia’s entrancing capital

At this moment, the Baltic states are in some sort of touristy limbo: Certainly not an insider tip anymore, Latvia is still far from being overrun by large tourist groups.
Music Group at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum

After having been ethnically oppressed for the longest time, the Latvians happily and proudly rediscover their cultural heritage.

Although Riga is a modern and forward-looking metropolis, Latvia’s entrancing capital preserves proudly its cultural identity, traditions, and a melancholic charm.

 

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TALLINN – a small city with a great spirit

Estonia’s capital Tallinn cannot be described with a handful of corny attributes and some stock catchphrases.

Tallinn - Estonia: St. Michaels Church

Besides many lovely and alluring things, there is also a bit of creepy to see in Tallinn – which makes the city even more intriguing.

For the standard categories, this city is too diverse, its past too changeful, its faith too inconsistent, its present too dynamic, and its future too promising: A hub between the poles of history and creativity.

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LÜBECK – a countdown to one of Germany’s most ravishing cities

Somehow the city of Lübeck has always reminded me of Venice: An innocently cute and relatively small city that used to possess such a political influence and economic power – reaching all over Europe and beyond.

Holstentor at Lübeck
There are quite a few lions in Lübeck – honoring Henry the Lion, the Bavarian King who after Munich founded also Lübeck in 1159. In the Backdrop the iconic Holstentor and right next to it the ancient salt warehouses.

Although Lübeck has incredibly beautiful buildings and alleys, seven church towers, three Nobel prize winners and world-famous marzipan, it does not suffer from destructive over-tourism. I don’t want to change that, however, I’d like to show you around one of Germany’s most ravishing cities.

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HAMBURG – gateway to the world

(Updated January 2020)

Hamburg, Germany’s second largest city, prides itself to be the “most beautiful city in the world”. While this, of course, is just a highly exaggerated catchphrase, it actually is alluring with views that make you yearn for undiscovered shores – Germans call it ‘Fernweh’ (loosely ‘aching for distance’) – lots of maritime charm and its historic openness to the world.

Sailors at the Port of Hamburg

For ages, sailors from all over the world anchored at the Port of Hamburg.

Hence the other slogan – “gateway to the world” – takes it already much closer to its real assets.
Whereby the city owes this description rather to the fact that Hamburg is Europe’s third-largest industrial port and has connected it with the rest of the world over centuries.

 

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Coming to America: From Northern Germany to the “New World”

In the 19th and 20th century, millions of people left Europe via the North German ports of Hamburg and Bremen respectively Bremerhaven in search of a better life in the “New World”, mostly the USA.

sculpture called Die Auswanderer, emigrants, is standing on the shore of the river Weser and remembers the seven million passing through the port of Bremerhaven.

This sculpture called Die Auswanderer, emigrants, is standing on the shore of the river Weser and remembers the seven million passing through the port of Bremerhaven. Actually, this statue by Frank Varga was donated by the German-American Memorial Association.

As a counterpart to the arrival halls in Ellis Island, several museums in German cities remember the adventurous journeys of the emigrants in transit.

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The Island of NEUWERK – where the way is the goal

“So, by which ferry did you get here?” asks the chubby little lady and her accent gives her away as Southern German. “Well, I came here walking”, I beam at her, still thrilled by my hike from the mainland to the island of Neuwerk.

 

Hike on tideland from Cuxhaven to Neuwerk
To Neuwerk – this way! You cannot blame people if they don’t believe that you came to an island walking.

The lady looks over the rough sea where the huge waves are rolling towards the shores of Cuxhaven. She frowns and shakes her head and is, obviously, thinking I’m trying to tell her a cock and bull story.

Little does she know: Visiting the island of Neuwerk, the way is the goal; definitely.

 

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BOOMTOWN BREMERHAVEN. A complete guide.

Last week, I’ve guided you through Bremen, Germany’s smallest Federal States consisting of only two relatively small cities: Bremen and its exclave Bremerhaven, located about 60 km up North where the river Weser empties into the North Sea.

 

bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels: Bremerhaven Seute Deern
Let me introduce you right away to one of Bremerhaven’s greatest attractions, the Seute Deern (which in Low German means Sweet Girl), world’s last cargo sailing ship made entirely of wood.
Today, this fine lady houses a museum and a lovely restaurant.

Which, by the way, was the main reason to build Bremerhaven in the first place: The direct access to the North Sea.

After a changeful history, today the city is almost secretly evolving into a Boomtown.

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BREMEN – BIG and small. A complete city guide.

Bremen, located in the northwest, is definitely not Germany’s most famous city. However, visitors who find their way here, will certainly be surprised – and even rewarded: The historic old town – partly a UNESCO world heritage site – deems like the capital of a fairyland; and you’ll actually run into some fabulous creatures and fairy tale figures.

Mr. Roland in front of the town hall: As long as he stands tall, Bremen remains free and independent.

But there is far more to discover in this Free Hanseatic City.

BREMEN – 


BIG…

Free Hanseatic City? Yes, that’s what Bremen has been since the city joined the Hanse association in 1358. The Hanse was a coalition of up to 200 cities with the main purpose of protecting trade routes e. g. against pirating. And Bremen used to be an important trading center mainly due to its privileged geographic location – being only about 60 km / approx. 37 miles from the north sea, conveniently connected by the river Weser.

In those days, every European city with access to the oceans had the chance to fill the public purse. And Bremen did not only move goods, they also manufactured fine produce: Until now, the Beck’s brewery, founded in 1873, is selling beer around the globe.

This is the Alexander von Humboldt, a sailing ship built in 1906. It became famous for being an advertisement icon for Beck’s beer as it sailed away while Joe Cocker was singing in the background….yap, exactly: ‘Sail Away’.

Also, another drink is connected to Bremen: Some of Germany’s largest coffee producers – Jacobs and Café HAG were founded here. The owner of Café HAG, Mr. Ludwig Roselius, is even credited with the development of commercial decaffeination of coffee.

Just like other north European harbors, Bremen drew profit from the emigration to the New World: Between 1830 and 1974, about 7 million people migrated via the newly built harbor Bremerhaven, Bremen’s enclave on the shores of the north sea, which, of course, flushed big amounts of money in the city’s cash.

All in all, a great track record.

…and small

To this day, Bremen has a certain special position: Germany is divided into 16 Federal States and Bremen is not only a city, but also a Federal State of its own (just like Berlin and Hamburg). To be precise, together with its exclave Bremerhaven, located about 60 km / 37 miles further north where the river Weser empties into the northern sea.

But why is it, that a city that small – Bremen has about 550,000 inhabitants – is a Federal State just like e. g. Bavaria? Besides the historical aspects, like having been a Free Hanseatic city, the reason lies in the post-war division of Germany.
The entire north west of Germany used to be the British sector. This included the entire West German coastline. Since the Americans wanted a harbor, too, they got Bremen and its harbor Bremerhaven, geographically being part of the Federal State of Lower Saxony.

Sounds great, makes things difficult: You know this phenomenon that people build a cute little house in the countryside and commute to the city to work, right? Well, that’s pretty bad for the city since all their social and economic life takes place outside the city, i. e. they don’t spend the money where they make it – and this includes paying taxes. So this is one problem Bremen has to face. One problem that makes it the poorest Federal Country of all Germany.

Once an icon, always an icon: Beck’s beer with the symbolic key – also to be found in Bremen’s coat of arms.

How about the beer and the coffee, you want to know? Well, in 2002, Beck’s brewery was sold to the Belgian Interbrew group and today it’s part of Anheuser-Busch Inbev.

Jacobs coffee is now part of Jacobs Douwe Egberts that belongs to Mondelez International. I think they call this globalization.

BIG TOUR…

So yes, Bremen has it a bit difficult, but it still has kept its cultural wealth and beautiful remains from the glorious times – and most of all its charming fairy town appearance.

Just let me take you on a big tour around a small town.

Getting there…

Bremen actually has an international airport that’s located about 4 km / 3 miles from the city center and therefore easily and quickly accessible: Within 15 minutes, tram #6 takes you from the airport to the main station for only 2,75 €uro.

Here you have access to all the local, regional, and national trains. And it’s just a short walk to the historic center.

…and around

Bremen, just like most German cities and towns, has a good system of public transportation. However, since there are countless ticket options, I refrain from giving you advice. A good option for visitors is certainly the ErlebnisCARD: It grants you free transportation and discounts. There are different options starting at 9,50 €uro for one adult and a child up to a group of five adults for 25,50 €uro.
Although this is a very good deal, I suggest you check beforehand what you want to do and how far you have to go: The center of Bremen is not very big, you might be fine just walking.

There is alluring art all around Bremen. Here the Herder with Pigs by artist Peter Lehmann. 

Talking ’bout walking: Going southwest the Herdentorsteinweg, you’ll cross the Stadtgraben, the city moat, at Herdentor. Look right: You’ll spot the old Herdentorswallmühle – yes, my dear, this is a fine example of how German words are put together to a linguistic tapeworm.

Note
 In this article, I’m writing out some of the German names and places and you will notice that there are letters that might not exist in other languages: 

First of all, there is the letter ß that exists only in the German alphabet and it’s by no means a B – it’s a ‘sharp’, double S as in kiss. When writing, you can actually replace it by a double S.
Then there are three more vowels, ä being the easiest one since it’s pronounced like an open e as in head.
Ö and ü are tougher, ö being pronounced more or less like the e in her and ü as the u in huge.

What you’ll probably won’t see right away is that the rampart along the moat was built in a saw-toothed shape which gives him the classic castle ditch appearance – your just waiting for the princess come around the corner.
It was built in the 17th century and had to protect the city actually only once – during the Bremen-Swedish war in 1666; Bremen against Sweden – a new version of David against Goliath.

Nope, this is not Holland. Although Bremen’s culture and architecture has always been strongly influenced by the Dutch.

Today, the rampart is a huge, very pleasant greenery and the mill – a former grain mill, in its very first version built in 1815 – houses a lovely café, cleverly called ‘Kaffee Mühle’, coffee mill.

Kaffee Mühle
Am Wall 212
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421-144 66
Email: info@muehle-bremen.de

The Kaffee Mühle is open daily from 9.30 a. m. till late in the evening, only from October to March it opens weekdays only at noon.

But before you walk towards the mill, please notice a sculpture at the corner: A man with a flat cap standing in front of some city models.

Wilhelm Kaisen, the father of Bremen’s post-war housing projects.

This is Mr. Wilhelm Kaisen, who after the war was for twenty years the 2nd President of the Senate and Mayor of Bremen and mainly in charge of the city’s reconstruction and redevelopment, e. g. by solving the post-war housing problems by building projects.

The Gewerbehaus.

Walking along the rampart takes you to the next bridge crossing the city moat. Here you turn left into the Ansgaritorstraße that ends at the Ansgarikirchhof and to your right, you’ll spot the Gewerbehaus, the trade building, built in the 17th century and site of Germany’s oldest chamber of crafts founded in 1849.

I hope there is no monkey business going on at this savings bank.

Turn right into Hutfilterstraße and you’ll get to the savings bank Sparkasse Bremen. In front of the bank is a large sculpture by Germany’s enfant terrible Jörg Immendorff called Affentor, apes gate.

From here, it’s only two blocks to the Schlachte, the promenade along the river Weser. Especially in Summer when all the bars and restaurants have their terraces open, there is an almost Mediterranean flair to this otherwise totally northern city.

Take your pick: There are bars and restaurants left and right.

Along the Schlachte you can enjoy all sorts of local and international cuisines.

Once you’re done eating and drinking and observing and relaxing, let’s walk along the Weser up north and turn right into Große Fischerstraße. At the next corner, you have the great opportunity to get a taste of what made Bremen great: Coffee.
The roastery Münchhausen does not only sell excellent coffee, they also offer tours. Since it’s a really small company, you absolutely have to check with them beforehand. Also, their shop is open only from Monday to Friday from 10 a. m. to 12.30 p. m.

Kaffeerösterei Münchhausen e.K. 
Geeren 24
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 12 100
Email: info@muenchhausen-kaffee.de

As you keep on walking down the street Geeren, you’ll get to Radio Bremen, the local broadcasting station. Across the narrow street, you’ll spot a beautiful building, the Architektenhaus, a Renaissance building from 1625, housing the Chamber of Architects; sometimes life is so logical…

What a great, deep bow by the Chamber of Architects to their forefathers: They could have chosen something hyper-modern, instead they are having their seat in this structure from 1625.

Further on up the road, you’ll get to the Kulturkirche St. Stephani. Now, this is a really special church: Built in the early 12th century, over the centuries, it had to be altered and remodeled, which is quite normal for these building, but in WWII, it was totally destroyed. In the 1940s and 50s, it was rebuilt.

The St. Stephani church opens its gates to the arts. At this moment, there is an exhibition titled Bo(o)tschaften: Botschaft is a message, a Boot is a boat. Regarding the present political situation in Europe, I guess the Botschaft of this double meaning should be pretty clear?

On January 1, 2007, the church became a Kulturkirche, a cultural church, i. e. a venue where music, visual arts, theater, dance, films, and lectures are performed; and from time to time services.

Kulturkirche St. Stephani 
Stephanikirchhof
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 303 22 94
Email: info@kulturkirche-bremen.de

As you cross the Stephanibrücke, the Stephani bridge, to the other side of the river Weser, we’ll get a bit more secular: Here you can get in touch with one of Bremen’s strongest suits, the Beck’s beer. Although it now belongs to Anheuser-Busch, they still stick to the old brewing traditions and you can take a tour.

You can book the tour online with the people from Bremen Tourismus. While this tour is available in English, too, their coffee tour is only in German.

As you walk back towards the center along the river Weser on the street Am Deich, to your right, you’ll spot another coffee roaster, AZUL, also known for fine artisan coffees.

At the next bridge, let’s cross to the peninsula in the river. Here, on the Teerhof where in the old times they used to melt tar for the ships, in 1893, the cigarette factory Ad. Hagens & Co. was opened.

5 Standing Figures by Magdalena Abakanowicz,
one piece of the very impressive exhibition of works from the Signum Foundation, founded by Hanna und Jaroslaw Przyborowski.

Today, the building is known as the Weserburg, housing a modern art museum with changing exhibitions and no permanent collection.

Weserburg | Museum für moderne Kunst 
Teerhof 20
28199 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 59 83 9-0
Email: sekretariat@weserburg.de

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a. m. to 6 p. m. (Thursday to 8 p. m.)

Cross the Weser back to the ‘mainland’ and walk up one block to Martinistraße and keep walking towards the center into Langenstraße.

The building of the old weighing scale.

To your left, you’ll spot a beautiful building and if you look up, you’ll see the Stadtwaage, the old weighing scale. Mentioned firstly in 1330, it is now on a newer building from the late 16th century. This scale used to be the official balance so none of the honorary merchants could cheat.

From here it’s only two blocks to the main square, the locals refer to it as Gute Stube, the parlor. Since 2004, the old town hall along with the Roland statue has been part of the Unesco World Heritage.

The old market square with the town hall to the left and the Saint Peter’s Cathedral to the right.

The townhall stems from the early 15th century, the Renaissance facade was added in the 17th century. It is the only European townhall from the medieval times that has never been altered or destroyed.

Rathaus Bremen
Am Markt 21
28195 Bremen

The town hall can be visited on different guided tours. You have to book your ticket with the Bremen Tourismus.

Mr. Roland was born….er…built in 1404. He stands 5 meters / 16.5 feet tall. With the column in his back and the canopy, he reaches 10 meters which makes him the tallest freestanding medieval statue.

Looking up to Mr. Roland, Bremen’s bouncer.

Roland was Charlemagne’s nephew and it is believed that Bremen remains free and independent as long as the Roland is standing strong.
Although he has a good head on his shoulders, it’s just a copy. You can see the original at the Focke-Museum.
The Focke museum is all about Bremen and its history. It is located about 45 minutes outside of the center, but can be easily reached by various trams such as #1, #4, or #6.

Focke-Museum 
Schwachhauser Heerstraße 240
28213 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 699 600 – 0
Email: post@focke-museum.de

Open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. (Tuesday to 9 p. m., Sunday to 6 p. m.)

The town hall is flanked by two churches: Unser Lieben Frauen Kirche, Church of Our Lady, today an Evangelical Protestant church, it dates from the 13th century.

They never really made it here, so Gerhard Marcks helped out with a sculpture. In the backdrop, you can spot a small part of the Church of Our Lady. 

Between the town hall and the church is the most iconic attraction Bremen has to offer, the sculpture of the Bremen town musicians. According to a fairy tale by the Brothers Grimm, a donkey, a dog, a cat, and a rooster run away from their ungrateful master to make a living as town musicians in Bremen. As a matter of fact, there is only the statue of these four since according to the tale, they never made it to the city.
However, today they are a huge marketing plot.

Gerhard Marcks was by far not the only artist dealing with this topic: Here two interpretations of arte povera suitor
Maurizio Cattelan: Love Saves Life (from 1995, on the left) and Love Last Forever (from 1997, on the right – both are made of taxidermied animals)
They can be visited at the Kunsthalle, the art museum (info and details below)

The donkey and his friends are also balancing on the water pipe of the Sieben Faulen Brunnen, the well of the seven idles. The rooster was stolen so often that after a while they didn’t replace him anymore but put a little plaque instead.  

It’s believed that rubbing the donkeys hoves brings luck. But you have to rub both, otherwise, it’s just one ass shaking another one’s hand.

Obviously, there are more options for getting lucky by rubbing sculptures.
These are by Bernhard Hoetger and called Abend, Jugend, Erinnerung, Evening, Youth, Remembrance – to be found at Böttcherstraße.  

On the other side of the town hall is the St. Petri Dom, Saint Peter’s cathedral. Of course, you can visit the cathedral, but don’t miss out on their Bibelgarten, the serene bible garden where you actually do find a bible – and more than 60 different plants, most of them mentioned in the bible. There is also a statue of Saint James since the Camino de Santiago leads through Bremen.

There he is at the bible garden: St. James with the shell engraved in the pedestal.

Make sure to visit the so-called Bleikeller, the lead cellar: Here a couple of mummies remind you that life is finitely.

To have a grand view of Bremen, you can climb one of the church towers.

The hours of all these visits and activities vary by season and weekday, so please check their website.

St. Petri
Sandstraße 10-12
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 36 50 40

This is the Lichtbringer, the bringer of light.
Hoetger designed him in 1936 trying to appease the Nazis and gaining their acceptance.
“I thought I could finally prove to the world how much I admire our Führer and
his deeds”, Hoetger wrote to a Swiss friend.
But in 1943, he had to flee the Führer’s good deeds to Switzerland

Across from the town hall, next to the Haus Schütting, a beautiful structure built in 1537/1538 in a late gothic style which houses the Chamber of Commerce, is the entrance to one of Bremen’s cutest alleys, the Böttcherstraße. It’s packed with intriguing little specialty shops like e.g. a artisan coffee roastery, shop, and café, and original restaurants.

Besides the Glockenspiel on number 4 -6, the former home of Mr. Ludwig Roselius is one of the most impressive sites.
Remember?
It’s the fellow who commercialized decaf and of course got wealthy.

Today, it houses the paintings of Paula Modersohn-Becker and his collection of furniture and nick nacks.
And there are changing exhibitions taking place, too.

Roselius’ former living area.

The three museums at Böttcherstraße are connected. The central staircase is adorned by an illumination of Jenny Holzer.

Art can make you a better person: It was his love for expressionism that prevented Roselius from becoming a pure bone Nazi friend.

Museen Böttcherstraße
Paula Modersohn-Becker
Museum Ludwig Roselius Museum
Sammlung Bernhard Hoetger

Böttcherstraße 6–10
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 33882-22
Email: info@museen-boettcherstrasse.de

The well accommodating the seven idles.
It stands in front of one branch of the Bremer Bonbon Manufaktur, a sweet shop where you can witness how your candy is being made.

I want candy! Handmade on the spot, this candy from Bremen also makes a wonderful souvenir.

Behind his house is the Handwerkerhof, the craftsmen’s court. Here you can admire the Sieben Faulen Brunnen, the well of the seven idles. This well was built after a tale by Friedrich Wagenfeld on seven lazy sons of a poor farmer who pretend to support their father with crazy innovative ideas; sort of fairy tale 2.0. However, this is a very special, strictly local story.

Besides the three art venues, there is also a small gift shop and a café.

The buildings and the sculptures were designed by Bernhard Hoetger, an expressionist artist.

To be honest, Mr. Roselius was not exactly an enemy of the Nazis, but because of his hang for expressionist art, e. g. Paula Modersohn-Becker’s paintings, they were not so fond of him. The same goes for Bernhard Hoetger: He did even join the Nazi-Party but was eventually expelled for his ‘degenerated’ art. To me, because of this, he does not qualify as a resistance fighter, although he had to migrate to Switzerland.
However, luckily the Nazis decided to keep the Böttcherstraße as a daunting example of ‘degenerated’ art and did not destroy it so that today we still can enjoy its beauty.

If you think that the Böttcherstraße is the cutest old neighborhood, you’ll stand corrected as soon as you get to the Schnoor, the neighborhood a couple of blocks east. You get there strolling east on the quay along the river Weser.

Parts of Bremen are really like a fairyland.

The Schnoor as a neighborhood and most of the streets and alleys in this are named according to old handicrafts associated with shipping. Since the Schnoor was a rather proletarian, poor neighborhood, it remained basically undestroyed during the wars and therefore kept its medieval character.

The limited space in the narrow streets is used for tables and chairs and the good life.

Today, of course, it’s a rather hip area with lots of small specialty shop, restaurants, bars, and the Hochzeitshaus, probably the world’s smallest hotel with only one room that accommodates two people.

They really nailed it: A modern sculpture to a building from 1402.

One single guest room guarantees privacy!

Adjacent to the Schnoor, in the southern part of the rampart, is the Kunsthalle Bremen, Bremen’s art museum.

A museum in a park grants a lush background.

They have a good collection from basically all epochs and organize temporary exhibitions of contemporary art like the Town Musicians by Maurizio Cattelan published above.
They also have an interesting and beautiful light work by shooting start James Turrell.

Kunsthalle Bremen
Am Wall 207
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 329 08-0
Email: info@kunsthalle-bremen.de

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. (Tuesday to 9 p. m.)

At the Gerhard Marcks Haus you can see more of the sculptor’s art.

Right next door is Gerhard-Marcks-Haus that you should visit: Mr. Marcks created the town musician sculpture in 1951 – and many more great works. Marcks was part of the Bauhaus art movement.

Gerhard-Marcks-Haus
Am Wall 208
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 98 97 52 0
Email: info@marcks.de

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m. (Thursday to 9 p. m.)

Across the street is another great exhibition on Bauhaus design to be found: The Wilhelm Wagenfeld Foundation, showing the fantastically innovative works of industrial designer Wilhelm Wagenfeld, born in 1900 in Bremen. The foundation is accommodated at the former gatehouse, built in 1826- 1828 in a classicist style.

Wilhelm Wagenfeld Stiftung
Am Wall 209
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 33 999 33
Email: info@wilhelm-wagenfeld-stiftung.de

The foundation is only accessible on the occasion of special exhibitions, there is no permanent collection on display: Tuesday from 3 p. m. to 9 p. m. and Wednesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m.

From here you can comfortably stroll back along the rampart back to the train station.

But wait a moment, right next to the station is another museum you might not want to miss, the Übersee Museum. Due to Bremen’s location close to the northern sea, the city was not only a gateway to the world, they also brought lots of wonderful art back with them. It’s a bit like a smaller version of the British Museum, but definitely worth a visit.

Übersee-Museum Bremen 
Bahnhofsplatz 13
28195 Bremen
Phone: + 49 – 421 – 160 38-0
Email: office@uebersee-museum.de

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m.  (weekends from 10 a. m.)

…on a small map





So this is Bremen – I hope you like it. 
As you know, the Federal State of Bremen consists of two cities: Read in this complete guide what great attractions Bremerhaven has to offer.

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