In this guide, I’m introducing you to the amazing island of Foehr, which floats in the North Sea off the coast of Germany. Wide sandy beaches, picturesque Frisian villages, an eventful history, endless bike paths, and fresh North Sea air: you’re sure to find your very own favorite spot here.
So, you’re ready to escape everyday life? Then follow me on a little trip to Foehr!
In Foehr, every village is a home. Come again: every village a home – what’s that all about?
Well, on one of Germany’s most popular holiday islands, almost every one of the 16 villages’ names ends with the suffix –um. This is the Frisian and Lower German version of heim, which translates to home. Hence, you can imagine how cozy and homey this North Frisian island is to its….homies.
The Wadden Sea
The National Park Wadden Sea stretches from the Netherlands along the German West Coast all the way up to Denmark. This makes it the world’s largest contiguous Wadden area.
There are seven East Frisian and five North Frisian islands scattered in the German part. Föhr* is the largest and most populated island with no land connection. Therefore, going to Föhr, you have to take a ferry, which adds to the charm, obviously.
Already while crossing from Dagebüll, the small harbor on the mainland, you’ll spot some smaller isles on the horizon. These are so-called Halligs, small islets, some unpopulated, some being home to tiny communities like the nine inhabitants of Hallig Gröde, located southeast of Föhr.
By the way, I’ve introduced Borkum, one of the East Frisian islands, in another post of my series on Island Hopping in Germany.
Wyk
Wyk is the capital of the island of Föhr and, obviously, one of the exceptions to the –um-rule. More than half of Föhr’s population, which is about 8,500 people. As a matter of fact, Wyk is also the only town on the island.
Before I keep going, I’d like to emphasize that Wyk is pronounced almost like week in English. Whereby, you would replace the w with a v, so that it’s veek.
Everyone has to pay Wyk at least a short visit because there are not only shops and supermarkets, a movie theater, and a disco – yes, disco, just like back in the 1970s. There is also the small harbor from where ferries are crossing by the hour between 7 a.m. and 8 p.m.
Halligs
Also, the day trips to the Halligs around Föhr are starting from here.
Halligs are small, undiked islets off the coast of Germany’s northernmost Federal State, Schleswig-Holstein. There are ten of them, and if you have the opportunity, it’s totally worth staying another day to enjoy a cruise to these unique, secluded places. You can visit either one of the two largest of the ten Halligs called Langeneß and Hooge. Or you go to the smallest one, Hallig Gröde where 19 inhabitants form Germany’s smallest municipality.
You can book, for instance, the Hallig Royal trip. It takes all day and even includes little refreshments. On this trip, you get to see all three islands.
MS HAUKE HAIEN
Bredstedter Straße 35
25813 Husum
Phone: + 49 – 4841 – 8 14 81
Mobile: +49 – 171 – 770 58 77
Email: info@wattenmeerfahrten.de
Hooded Beach Wicker Chairs
Even if there’s a nip in the air – or a strong breeze – you’ll find shelter in one of the roofed wicker chairs that I love so much.
They call it a Strandkorb, hence, a beach basket. It shelters you perfectly against the wind while you enjoy the rays of the sun. When it’s warmer, you just push back the roof and – voilà – you have the perfect beach bed.
Sleeping On The Beach – In Style
For about four years now, it’s even possible to spend the night in a Strandkorb. They developed a new kind that’s a bit wider, so it houses two people.
(Photo: © Föhr Tourismus GmbH / Foto: Jens Oschmann)
The owner hands you the key, and you can spend a romantic and cozy night under the stars.
(Photo: © Föhr Tourismus GmbH / Foto: Jens Oschmann)
There is a bathroom nearby, albeit some of the showers have only cold water, but come on, be a sport! And if there’s a cloudburst, you can cover the Strandkorb with a hood similar to those of a convertible. However, this one-of-a-kind accommodation is only available during the summer season from May to September, obviously.
Föhr’s Past
It’s certainly interesting to learn a bit more about Föhr’s history. The Dr. Carl-Häberlin-Friesen-Museum, the Frisian museum at Wyk, is the perfect place for doing so.
Here, you’ll learn about the whale catchers who were active in the 17th and 18th centuries. They are also telling you why so many Föhrers migrated to the United States in the middle of the 19th century.
You’ll see the traditional attire, furniture, and utensils in three original buildings. One of those is Föhr’s oldest house, built in 1617.
Also, there is an antique post mill. It was brought here from Langeneß, the largest of the Halligs.
Dr.-Carl-Häberlin-Friesen-Museum
Rebbelstieg 34
25938 Wyk
Phone: + 49 – 4681 – 2571
Email: info@friesen-museum.de
Regarding their opening hours, please check their website since these vary according to the different tourist seasons.
Out Of Wyk
So yes, Wyk is a nice little town, but I’m not coming to Föhr to stay in a town. I’m coming for the seclusion and serenity! Obviously, I find these features between the fields and the meadows surrounding all the –ums, those lovely little hamlets and villages. Here, most of the farmhouses are reed thatched and have some wise slogans painted around the doorframe.
So come on, jump on your bike and let’s hit the road.
Although there are a couple of elevations, namely 17 burial mounds from the Bronze Age, the island is mostly flat and therefore perfect for cycling. However, it’s an island amidst the northern sea, so even on a warm and sunny day, a strong breeze can make riding a bike pretty challenging. Therefore, I really recommend renting an e-bike that helps you to cycle against the wind when needed.
Wrixum
We are leaving Wyk on route L214 towards the northwest. This sounds more like a serious road trip than the leisurely bike ride we are taking. You’ll first get to the village of Wrixum, a name that sounds like borrowed from an Asterix book.
Wrixum’s landmark is a windmill, erected in 1851 and functioning till 1960. At that time, grinding corn in a mill like this simply wasn’t economically interesting anymore.
After a checkered history, the community of Wrixum bought the mill in 2016 and is trying to reanimate it. The mill is now heritage-protected, and the association is collecting money to buy it new wings. The old ones had to be detached for safety reasons.
Eventually, the mill should grind again, and the baked goods will be sold at a bakery next door.
Wrixumer Mühle
Hardesweg 54
25938 Wrixum
You can visit the windmill on Sundays at 2.30 p.m.
Oevenum
As you keep on cycling northwest, the country road takes you straight to the village of Oevenum, island-famous for treats and dainties. There are farm stores where you get the very freshest produce, and also a farmers’ market.
Homemade candy from the sweet shop Snupkroom, which is Frisian for sweets, is great to enjoy on the spot or to bring home as a souvenir.
Föhrer Snupkroom
Wohlackerum 2
25938 Oevenum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 746 21 38
With your pockets full of snupkroom, keep riding down the main village road until you find yourself in Alkersum.
Alkersum
Alkersum is an –um not to be missed for two great attractions, art and the art of food.
Dr. Frederik Paulsen Jr. founded the Museum Kunst der Westküste, the Museum Art of the West Coast.
Dr. Paulsen’s father was born in Dagebüll in 1909. As a young man, he had to flee the Nazis to Sweden and Switzerland because of his opposing political ideas. In Sweden, he founded the pharmaceutical company Ferring. In 1997, he died in Alkersum.
Paulsen’s art collection is the backbone of the museum, which was founded in 2009 in the very village where his father died. The museum was installed at the former tavern Grethjens Gasthof. This pub used to be a hangout for German and Danish artists in the 19th century. The exhibition consists of paintings by Edvard Munch, Max Liebermann, Max Beckmann, Peder Severin Krøyer, and many other Nordic masters.
Today, the temporary exhibitions deal with the topics sea and the coast.
The venue, its history, and the art on display are interesting and inspiring and not to be missed when visiting Föhr.
Museum Kunst der Westküste
Hauptstraße 1
25938 Alkersum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 74 74 00
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.
Fresh Dairy Products
Now, the other place to visit in Alkersum is not artsy, however, very original: At the farm store Hofladen Hartmann you can buy all sorts of freshly homemade dairy.
It’s closed?
No worries: Inspired by a candy machine, you can buy their goodies, such as cheese and yogurt, from a machine.
There, you can also obtain empty glass bottles. What for? Well, next to the diary machine is, inspired by a gas station, a milk station.
Put your brand new bottle in the little compartment, insert one €uro, and one liter of fresh milk will pour into the container.
So much fun!
Hofladen Hartmann
Hauptstraße 9
25938 Alkersum
Phone: +49 – 4681 – 24 92
If you prefer to shop the conventional way, the farm store is open Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturdays to 1 p.m. On Sunday, you have to use the ingenious machines.
Oldsum
So Oevenum is for food, Alkersum for the art, and the next village on the road L214 would be Oldsum, and that stands for tradition, history, and handicraft. Today, at many of the thatched half-timber houses you’ll find cozy cafés, galleries, and specialty shops selling wool and ceramics, but also jam and other local delicacies.
In the 17th century, Oldsum was an important whale-catcher village: Commander Matthias Petersen caught 373 whales in his life. Look out for his gravestone in the cemetery around the St. Laurentii church in Süderende. We’ll get there in a moment.
(Photo: Daniel Ponten, Grabstein matthias petersen, detail, cropped to 2:3, CC BY-SA 2.0 DE)
Staying at a Frisian House
Talking ’bout whale-catchers: Another one was Arfst Ketels, born in 1808. When he died in 1884, he left a beautiful house that today belongs to Ms. Marion Koziol. For the record: She is not catching whales.
Marion, who moved to Föhr from Southern Germany, did a great job in restoring the old structures and transforming the house into a real -um, a cozy home. Now, she’s generously sharing it with others by renting three of the upper rooms to guests.
And since Marion loves to bake and cook, you can enjoy a wonderful breakfast prepared to your liking before you leave to explore the island and the sea.
If you like, she awaits you in the evening in the cozy dining room with an opulent dinner, like, for instance, her Frisian tapas, a variety of local delicacies with a modern twist. Prepare for a long, filling, and fulfilling evening!
By the way, Arfst Ketels’ gravestone is at St. Laurentii. It stands in the third row at the northeastern corner.
Update 2025
Sadly, Marion’s house is not operating as a B&B any longer. However, you will certainly find another cozy’n’convenient accommodation on Expedia*:
Dunsum
As you might remember from my post on Cuxhaven and the hike across the tideland to the island of Neuwerk, I’m a huge fan of the Wadden Sea and hiking around in the mud. To me, no visit to the North German coast would be complete without marching in the mud to see all the wonders nature has created, and we should cherish and protect.
While every guided hike on the tideland is an excursion into wonderland, in Dunsum, they throw in a handful of seals.
You can hike towards the island of Sylt, and approximately halfway, there is a sandbar where the chubby, cute gray seals are frolicking in the ice-cold waters or lazing on the sand.
Crossing The North Sea Walking
Since the waters come and go and there are relatively few people getting to the sandbank, it’s also a haven for shell collectors. Not only is the amount simply amazing, but they are also intact since few feet are trampling around. So if you take this hike and you love to collect shells, bring a big bag with you!
The hike to the sandbar and back is in total about 8 kilometers. The schedule depends on the tides, obviously.
You can get info at the Tourist Information or at the tavern
Zum Wattenläufer
Dunsum
Phone: +49 – 171 – 1 13 36 28
If you want to hike and didn’t take your own gumboots, you can rent them at a small price
Antiquitäten & Gummistiefel-Verleih
Sandwall 58
Wyk
Phone: +49 – 173 – 8 11 56 70
When the weather is warm enough, there are even hikes all the way to the neighboring island of Amrum. Although the distance is only about 8 kilometers, the tidal creek at the end of the hike is thigh-high, so you have to cross wearing beachwear. Believe me, you don’t want to do this in let’s say March.
To get back to Föhr from Amrum, you take a ferry.
Obviously, you can visit Amrum, Sylt, and many of the Halligs by ferry. But come on, do you really want to miss the opportunity to basically walk on water from isle to isle?
Süderende
Süderende – although, obviously, not an –um – is also a very cute village with pretty houses and, most importantly, a very impressive Lutheran church, St. Laurentii. The original structure stems from the late 12th century. However, the building was extended for the first time already in the 13th century and underwent a couple of changes. You can see this from the very different bricks and stones.
The most fascinating part that all Protestant churches in Föhr have in common is the graveyard surrounding the house of worship. You will notice a great number of beautifully engraved stones, the so-called Talking Gravestone. Following an old tradition, the deceased’s biography is summarized in artful writing, telling about the exciting life of the whale catchers.
Also, pay attention to the floral decoration. The family’s men and sons are mentioned on the stone’s left side in some tulip-like flowers. Women and daughters to the right in a four-blossomed flower. A broken flower is telling you that the person died before the family tombstone was finished.
These graveyards are very unique and typical of North Frisia.
By the way, the North of Germany is mostly protestant, so there is only one Catholic church on Föhr, the St. Marien Kirche in Wyk.
Utersum
Here you’ll agree with Föhr’s self-proclaimed title Friesische Karibik, Frisian Caribbean: Miles and miles of fine sand along the North Sea make this village the epitome of a beach vacation.
Even as the tide is low, you can take a dip in a tidal creek.
Facilities such as bathrooms and showers are great. Also, there are designated beach areas for different needs, like a dog beach or even a non-smokers’ part.
(Photo: Pincerno at German Wikipedia, Pincerno – Utersum 1, cropped to 2:3, straightened, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE)
Since Utersum is on the island’s very West, not only is there a good view of the neighboring island of Amrum. Also, the sunsets here are just spectacular!
Witsum
River deep – mountain high: Föhr’s smallest village Witsum is adjacent to the island’s only river, the Godel. The endless fields and the humidity create a unique biotope, ideal for all the resting’n’nesting birds.
Oh, I almost forgot that one of Föhr’s highest elevations, the 11-meter-high Sylvert hill, is also located in Witsum. You see, this tiny village seems to have it all.
Nieblum
All the -ums are super-cute and have lovely corners, but Nieblum is the prettiest of them all. Consequently, also the most touristy one. Especially since there isn’t only the incredible number of perfectly maintained Frisian houses but also the proximity to the Frisian Caribbean, hence, the North Sea.
On Nieblum’s beach, everyone finds his or her favorite activity; or passivity in case lazing in the sun is your personal favorite.
While the whale catchers used to live in Oldsum, Nieblum was for the captains. To this date, it is reflected in the magnificent Frisian mansions. Nieblum, as a village, considered Föhr’s most precious gem, won various village competitions for a reason.
The cobblestone and pebblestone covered alleys are lined by linden trees, and roses in many colors are blooming in the gardens and on house walls.
Just like Süderende, Nieblum’s center, too, is dominated by a house of worship, the Saint John church, called the Frisian Cathedral. It is Föhr’s largest church, built almost 600 years ago.
Practical Information
Getting There…
Although Föhr does have an airport and there are regular flights to the island from Sylt as well as from Flensburg and Husum on the mainland, most visitors are coming by ferry via the port of Dagebüll.
It’s not complicated to get from Hamburg to Föhr, however, it does take about five hours in total since you have to change trains and then wait for the ferry. But it’s definitely worth the small effort.
If you are coming from Hamburg or any place within the federal states of Schleswig-Holstein or Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and you are not travelling by yourself, you might consider getting a so-called Schleswig-Holstein-Ticket. It costs 29 €uros for one person, and you have to add another 3 €uros per person travelling with you. So if you are two adults, it will set you back 32 €uros for both of you, if you travel with four other people, you’ll pay 41 €uros for your party of five; not bad, right? A child under 15 travels for free with two adults.
While you can actually travel the entire day within the respective federal state, you are only allowed to take the regional trains. These train numbers begin with RE, MET, etc. Keep in mind that you cannot take the interregional trains such as the Intercity (IC) or Intercity-Express (ICE).
For connections and rates, please visit the Deutsche Bahn’s website, it is available in seven languages.
The Germany Ticket for 58 €uros
Following the fantastic 9 €uro ticket that allowed nationwide travel for an entire month from June to August 2022, there is now the 58 €uro ticket. For good.
With the 58 €uros ticket, you can travel basically the entire country by regional trains. Those train numbers begin with RE, MET, etc. But remember, it is not valid in interregional trains such as the Intercity (IC) or Intercity-Express (ICE). However, you can also use regular buses, trams, subways, and suburban trains, as well as regional express trains everywhere in Germany.
While the 58 €uro ticket is valid throughout the country, it is not linked to German citizenship. It can also be purchased by non-residents. Although it is an annual subscription, it can be canceled on a monthly basis.
Once you get to the port of Dagebüll, you have to take the ferry. It crosses by the hour between 5 a.m. and 8 p.m. The last ferry from Wyk back to the mainland leaves already at 6.40 p.m.
The fare is 8,40 €uros one way and 13,60 €uros round trip for adults and 4,20 respectively 6,80 €uros for kids from 6 to 14 years old.
…and Around
The best way to explore the island is definitely by bicycle. Due to the harsh wind, I highly recommend renting an e-bike.
There is very little traffic on the island, and usually, people are driving pretty prudently when they see you. So make sure they do. Wear something flashy, turn on the light if necessary, and try to make way when cycling on the road.
However, if you are not into cycling, there are two public buses serving the entire island: Number 1 respectively 11 that go around the island on the northern route, getting to the villages practically in the order of this post. Bus Number 2, respectively 22, goes the other way around.
There are further buses at the center of Wyk.
Obviously, you can also explore the island by driving. But to me, it does not match the serenity, closeness to nature, and spirit of this beautiful island.
Money
On Föhr you are paying with €uro, obviously. Not every business takes credit cards, but there are various ATMs at Wyk, but also at Nieblum, Oldsum, and Utersum, so getting cash shouldn’t be a problem.
The exchange rate is 1 US$ = 0.85 €UR as of July 2025, but you can check the conversion on this page.
Language
I’d say that most people in Germany have at least a rudimentary knowledge of the English language, many even speak it pretty decently. However, this is neither Berlin nor Hamburg, and they cater mainly to national visitors, so don’t expect everyone to be fluent.
For some useful words and phrases, you might want to practice a little with help from e. g. Babbel. The first lesson is for free and already supplies you with useful basic vocabulary.
*Note: In this article, I’m writing out some of the German names and places, and you will notice that there are letters that might not exist in other languages. Most importantly for this article, there is the letter ö being pronounced more or less like the u in fur – which actually is very close to how you pronounce the island’s name.
Then there are also the vowels ä, which is very easy since it’s pronounced like an open e as in head, and ü that is pronounced approximately like the u in huge.
The letter ß, which exists only in the German alphabet, is by no means a B . It’s just like the double S as in kiss. When writing, you can actually replace it with a double S.
Tourist Info
After having read this post down to here, do you still need further information or have specific questions? Of course, I’m here for you, but more importantly, so are the friendly and knowledgeable people at the Tourist Information.
You can check their informative website or get your info in person at
Föhr Tourismus GmbH
Feldstraße 36
25938 Wyk
Phone: + 49 – 4681 – 30-0
Email: urlaub@foehr.de
On this map, you get an overview of the island and can see where all the wonderful places that I’m recommending are to be found. Clicking on the slider symbol at the top left or the full-screen icon at the top right will display the whole map, including the legend.
This is the second post of a series on five absolutely fascinating islands in North Germany. I hope you’ve enjoyed it. Did it make you curious for more? Then make sure to check out these posts on the other great isles:
Pinnable Pictures
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Note: I am completing, editing, and updating this post regularly – last in July 2025.
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Disclaimer: I appreciate that Föhr Tourismus was supporting my blogger trip by supplying us with e-bikes, booking a room at the B&B Die Friesin and granting access to some attractions. However, all opinions on these services are mine and weren’t by any means influenced by my cooperation partner.
* This is an affiliate link. If you book through this page, not only do you get the best deal. I also get a small commission that helps me run this blog. Thank you so much for supporting me!