FAIAL – the Most Beautiful Island of the Azores

Our ferry slowly glided just off the coast of Faial’s capital Horta. Behind the marina, which was densely packed with sailing yachts, I spotted lavish townhouses and whitewashed church buildings in the Manueline style typical of the Azores stacked in rows up a slightly climbing hill. The place exuded elegance and noble serenity. Actually, already at first sight, Faial seemed to be the most beautiful island among the Azores.

And indeed, Faial is a stunning blend of volcanic landscapes, lush greenery, and striking ocean views. Known as the Blue Island for its hydrangea-lined roads, Faial is a paradise for sailors and adventurers, nature lovers, and anyone seeking serene sophistication.

Faial

And once again, FOMO dragged me into travelling from place to place way too fast. Since I wanted to visit six islands during the three weeks that I had for the Azores, I only had very little time for most of them. Around one and a half to two days. That’s certainly enough to have seen an island. But to get to know it?
No, that requires long breaks in street cafes from where you can watch the locals as well as time passing by. It demands moments between meadows and fields where nothing but the wind can be heard. That mandates ‘sittin’ on the dock of the bay watching the tide roll away’.
In short: it takes a lot of leisure.

Faial sits in the central group of the Azores. To the east, it is separated from Pico Island only by a narrow strait of about 8 kilometers. This proximity makes the two islands a comfortable dual destination for locals and visitors alike. You can easily hop on a ferry for a day trip to Pico to explore vineyards and hike up Portugal’s highest mountain.

Faial’s culture reflects a blend of Portuguese traditions with a strong influence from its historical connections to the U.S. and Europe.

Halfway There

From the 17th to the mid-19th century, Faial was an important transatlantic waypoint. This is also reflected in the number of churches in Horta. Mind you, also missionaries of the Jesuit, the Carmelites, and the Franciscan Order stopped here on their way to Brazil. In the 18th century, none less than Mr. James Cook called on the island before beginning his voyages of discovery in the Pacific!

To this day, the island has played a momentous role, be it as a stopover on early transatlantic flights, eventually as a center for telecommunications between Europe and America, and today because of its substantial marina.

Faial offers a beautiful and serene escape with a mix of lush greenery, volcanic landscapes, vibrant marine life, and a rich nautical heritage. It is characterized by beautiful coastlines with a few nice sandy beaches, lush green hills, and the obligatory volcanic crater.

Born of Fire

As a matter of fact, the Capelinhos Volcano on the westernmost tip of Faial is one of the island’s most striking features. As it erupted for an incredible 13 months from September 1957 until October 1958, it actually added new land to the island and created a lunar-like landscape. Nevertheless, the eruption affected homes and agriculture and was therefore impactful enough to prompt many locals to migrate, particularly to the United States.

At the heart of Faial lies the Caldeira do Faial, a massive volcanic crater that is one of the Azores’ most impressive natural wonders. It’s about two kilometers wide and more than 400 meters deep, with lush vegetation covering its walls. The caldera is part of a protected natural reserve, and visitors can hike around the rim to take in the panoramic views of the island and nearby Pico Island.

The waters around Faial and its neighboring islands are teeming with marine life, and the area is known for exceptional whale-watching opportunities. Many species, including sperm whales, blue whales, and various dolphins, can be spotted here, especially between April and October. The waters are also popular among scuba divers, who can explore underwater volcanic formations, rich biodiversity, and even a few shipwrecks.

Horta

Just like in São Jorge, it was most practical for me to stay in the capital. This way I didn’t have to waste time travelling further after arrival. The ferry port is located right at the northern tip of the city and can be easily reached on foot, provided you don’t have heavy, bulky luggage.

Since, like on most other islands, you have to have your own vehicle to explore the island and, like on all other islands, and everywhere else in the world, for that matter, I don’t drive, it was clear from the start that I would spend most of my time in and around Horta.
The town is so delightful that it really didn’t seem like much of a sacrifice.

Horta’s Riches

Horta offers a rich mix of sophisticated colonial architecture alongside cobbled streets and quaint squares. For instance, the Casa Memória Manuel de Arriaga which is the birthplace of this most famous Faialense who became the first President of the Portuguese Republic in 1911.

But the magnificent Art Deco architecture of Horta is also reminiscent of Faial’s Gilded Age when there were numerous orange magnates, and exquisite wines were shipped from the neighboring island of Pico.

Churches like the Igreja do Carmo and Igreja do Santíssimo Salvador, on the other hand, bear witness to the island’s modest boom in the 17th century.

Interesting is the history of the Igreja da Nossa Senhora das Angústias which is located on the site of the first hermitage built by the first captain of Faial, Josse van Huerter. He was the first settler and captain-major of the island. Apparently, the name Horta is derived from his family name.

After the old hermitage fell into disrepair, the current church was built in the 17th century. Among other things, it houses the remains of van Huerter’s wife Beatriz de Macedo.

Pole Position

In case you’re wondering that a Dutchman was the first settler, the Dutch never occupied the Azores in that sense, but they were active in the region in the 16th and 17th centuries due to their conflicts with Spain and Portugal.
The Azores were a strategic point for controlling Atlantic shipping routes.

The first settlers arrived in the bay of Porto Pim in the 15th century. The fortress was designed to protect the island from attacks by pirates and privateers, who once often threatened the region. Also, until the commercial port was built at the end of the 19th century, Porto Pim was the main port of Horta.

A gate on the western end of the bay opens to the old quay of Porto Pim. Today this area is packed with small shops, but mainly cafes and restaurants which makes it a popular place to spend the evenings and watch the sunset over Porto Pim Bay.

At the end of the crescent bay, a fine sandy beach nestles against the Monte da Guia mountain.
Although this is the most beautiful and most visited beach on the island, it is very serene and never overcrowded. The only problem might be that there isn’t much shade, though.

Connecting the World

At the end of the 19th century, Faial developed into an important telecommunications hub. From here, several cable companies laid cables to various points in Europe, the USA, and even Cape Verde, off the coast of the African continent. That’s why you can still see the Colónia Alemã, the German colony, in Horta today. Along Rua Cônsul Dabney you will find the former villas of the companies that operated the transatlantic cables. The Colónia Alemã was constructed in 1919 after WWI to install the cable connection from Borkum via Horta to New York. A total of five buildings frame a central square. In the Casa do Relogio, beautiful, colorfully decorated window panes still bear witness to the old days.

But most importantly, Horta is one of the most popular places for sailors crossing the Atlantic. Its marina is favored worldwide as a crucial stopover for sailors, particularly those on round-the-world or Atlantic-crossing voyages.

Horta’s marina and nearby Peter Café Sport have long served as gathering places for seafarers and have become iconic symbols of the island’s maritime culture. A crucial tradition among sailors is to leave a mural on the walls or walkways of the marina for good luck on their voyage. These colorful paintings are a living gallery that tells countless fascinating stories.

Obviously, due to the rich marine ecosystem surrounding the Azores, Horta is also a prime location for whale and dolphin watching.

Peter Café Sport

For some, the Peter Café Sport in the port of Horta is an indispensable stop on their way between Europe and North America. For others, it is nothing more than a picturesque tourist attraction.

The story of this extraordinary pub begins when Henrique Azevedo opened it in 1918. The first guests included transatlantic pilots, whalers, and sailors. As a hub for intercontinental telecommunications, employees of the American, British, and German telegraph companies based on Faial came together here. Actually, it was an English naval captain who gave Henrique Azevedo the name Peter because it reminded him of his son.

Today, in the pub run by José Henrique Azevedo in the third generation, a colorful sailing crowd mixes with locals over the best gin and tonic between the continents. Colorful flags, yellowed photos, and many other remnants from visitors adorn the walls and ceiling of the bar. It is good manners for skippers to leave club or other stands and flags behind.

Newsweek magazine named the pub one of the best bars in the world and helped the long-standing establishment become an institution. In fact, Peter Café Sport became so famous internationally that it was recreated in full size for the 1998 World Expo in Lisbon!

The Peter Café Sport is open daily from 8 a.m. to midnight. On the first floor of the restaurant is one of the world’s largest scrimshaw collections. True works of art are engraved here on whale teeth.
The museum is open in the morning and afternoon and entry costs 1.50 euros.

Fun Fact

In the 1930s, the Pan Am seaplanes touched down here. The controversial aviation icon Charles Lindbergh himself honored the island port with a stopover during an Atlantic crossing.

Island Trip

Sadly, this chapter will be very short as I wasn’t able to go on my self-designed island trip after all.

As I explain below in the Hot to Get Around section, public transport in the Azores is pathetic, and Faial is no glorious exception to this rule. There are very few buses with even fewer connections, and on the weekend, there’s no means of public transport at all.

However, just like on the island of Sao Jorge, there is a bus going in a circle around Faial. It starts and ends in Horta, obviously, but goes on a ring road alongside the coast. You can see the route on the map below. The big disadvantage is that you have almost no opportunity to make a longer stop to take a closer look at a particularly beautiful area.

This being said, after having explored the town of Horta and spent a good while on the beach at Porto Pim Bay, I was ready for a little action. With my thoroughly prepared itinerary in mind, I asked at the bakery and at the pharmacy where the bus stops.
“There is a public bus on the island?” nobody had ever as much as even heard of a bus. But I knew there was one. The day before, I had seen a bus going down the main street Avenida 25 de Abril.
Apart from the driver, there was exactly one passenger aboard.
I guess this tells you everything about how popular and highly frequented public transport is on the island.

Don’t Leave Me This Way

Popular or not, I didn’t care, I wanted to go on a round-trip, no matter if it was just me and the driver.
Google Maps showed me where there was a bus stop and informed me that I still had about fifteen minutes. Great. After my experience in Guadeloupe, another place on earth where taking the bus is one of the world’s last great adventures, I hurried to the stop. In places like these, due to the lack of passengers, buses might arrive a bit earlier.

While I was approaching the post, which was marked as a stop by a small sign with a bus icon, from one side, a bus was approaching from the opposite direction.
Excellent.
What was far less excellent was the fact that the bus didn’t stop.
I waved both arms and shouted ‘Hey!’
The bus driver saw me, smiled kindly, made a circular gesture with his arm, and then pointed in the exact direction I wanted to go.
Yes, I would like to take part in exactly this circular tour.
I stood no chance, the bus drove on. The driver obviously didn’t see me as a potential passenger.

Come on, you can’t tell me that I’m the first tourist ever who wants to take a bus around the island!
And if so, the driver just deprived me of the chance to be first at this very moment.
Oh crap.

Take Your Chance

Although my plan was boycotted, I still think circumnavigating the island by public bus is a good option. As a matter of fact, you even have the option twice on weekdays. Either you take the bus, which leaves Horta at 11.45 a.m., makes the circuit along the east coast to Ribeira Funda, and then returns along the west coast to Horta, arriving at 1.42 p.m.

Alternatively, you can do only half the route on an afternoon bus. Then you set off from Horta at 3:20 p.m. along the east coast to Cedros and from there immediately at 4:10 p.m. the same route back to Horta.
Note that you don’t have a stay in Cedros. You return straight away.

You get all the information and schedules on this flyer. Also, you can verify scheduled trips on Google Maps.

Practical Information

How to Get There

By Plane

Horta Airport is located in the municipality of Castelo Branco, just ten kilometers southwest of the center of Horta. SATA Air Açores is the only airline with daily connections to and from the other islands forming the so-called central group. From Terceira, you can take connecting flights to all other islands as well as to mainland Portugal and even the USA.

A cab from the airport to Horta will set you back 11 €uros, if you have very bulky luggage, the driver will charge an additional 2.50 €uros.

By Ferry

Ferries offer a scenic and often inexpensive way to travel between the Azores. This mostly works very well, especially within the central archipelago, as the islands there are close to each other. Yet, if you are flexible and willing to adapt to seasonal schedules, you can basically travel to all islands by sea. Especially from June to September, the connections are more frequent and most islands are served daily. However, it is advisable to book ferry tickets in advance, especially during these months, as ferries are often fully booked.

However, keep in mind that ferry connections are heavily dependent on the weather. Especially in autumn and winter, trips can be canceled at short notice due to strong winds or high waves.
It is advisable to find out about the current departure times shortly before the start of your trip. Atlânticoline provides current timetables and booking options on their website.

How to Get Around

Public transportation in Faial is available but limited to very few connections per day. Therefore, it is difficult to explore the island by bus alone. However, there are two bus lines, each running halfway around the island. Four different minibus routes also operate within the Horta urban area. There is very limited service on Saturdays and no service at all on Sundays.

Nevertheless, if you want to try your luck, you get all the information and schedules on this flyer. Also, Google Maps shows you the scheduled trips. Sadly, what the App does not know is that the bus might get to your stop a lot earlier. So make sure you get to your stop at least ten minutes before the calculated departure time.

Cab prices on Faial are fixed and relatively modest.

Obviously, you can also rent a bike and explore the island by cycling. However, I wouldn’t be too euphoric about it as the island is quite hilly. You need very good brakes when going downhill and very strong calves when the road winds up.

Organized Trips

“The situation with public transport is really very bad. You can’t explore the island by exclusively using public transport!”
How many times have I heard this warning and it has never put me off. Whether Martinique or Curaçao – through good planning, I always managed to visit the places I wanted to see by public bus. Only very rarely have I had to give up my plans.
The Azores are, unfortunately, one such case.

Despite being Portuguese territory and therefore part of Europe, a continent that can be proud of its public transport networks, the situation in the Azores is deplorable. Relatively few routes are served and sometimes only once a day. Sundays are a complete day of rest on most islands. It’s despairing.

So if you don’t rent your own vehicle and don’t want to spend hours figuring out complicated connections, it’s best to join an organized day trip. I don’t say this lightly, I really searched meticulously for convenient connections.
Unfortunately, it was in vain.

However, while in the past, I mainly joined organized day trips from time to time when there was no convenient public transport option, I now do it for safety reasons. Believe me, you do not want to sit by yourself in the wilderness with no opportunity to call for assistance as I did during a hiking accident in Gran Canaria. Therefore, take at least a hiking buddy with you, especially when exploring impassable and rough terrain.
Or, even better, go with a knowledgeable local guide.

No matter your reason for wanting to join an organized excursion, here are some great options for exploring Faial on guided tours*:

Where to Stay

Since the Azores are still rather destinations for true connoisseurs, you’ll find a much smaller choice of lodging options than on other European islands such as the Canaries. While there are even some of those charmless big hotels in São Miguel, on the smaller islands, accommodation is somewhat limited. Therefore, I recommend early booking, especially if you’re traveling during the high season or your budget has a certain limit.

I spent the night at the very pleasant Casa da Baía Guest House*. It’s a bit hidden behind the legendary Peter Café Sport. Located within walking distance from the harbor and just minutes from the Porto Pim beach and promenade, I cannot recommend this guesthouse enough. The rooms are squeaky clean and the staff is super friendly. For an extra 6 €uros, they offer also breakfast. This being said, I must say that the selection of foods is extremely limited, hence, it is not worth the money.

Better go to one of the branches of A Padaria where you can choose from many sweet and savory snacks and delicious coffee specialties while rubbing shoulders with fellow travellers as well as locals.
They also offer various hot lunch specials at an amazing price!

Booking.com

This being said, I still find that the price-service ratio at the  Casa da Baía Guest House* is excellent. However, this map will help you search for alternatives according to your personal needs, preferences, and budget, obviously*:

My Tip

Accommodation in Faial was significantly cheaper than on the island of Pico. Therefore, if you want to save on lodging and the schedule of your planned activities allows, you might want to consider staying on Faial and paying Pico just a visit on a day trip. Mind you, the trip by ferry takes about half an hour and costs as little as 3.80 €uros. Since there are various ferries over the day, you might want to look into this option.

What to Eat

Obviously, Faial’s staples consist of fish and seafood.

An all-time classic in the Azores are Lapas Grelhadas, hence, grilled limpets. They are mostly served smothered in garlic and butter as a starter. Another treat from the Ocean is Cracas, barnacles in English. They are usually boiled in seawater, allowing you to enjoy the taste of the ocean.

Found in the waters around Faial, Cavaco is a local lobster variant with a firm texture and sweet taste. It’s typically served simply with lemon or in a flavorful seafood stew.

Polvo Guisado is an Azorean-style stewed octopus. It is a classic, prepared in a rich, hearty sauce made with wine, onions, garlic, and tomatoes. Try it with local sweet potatoes or Inhame, a taro root very common in the Azores. It has a potato-like consistency, but a much for flavorful, nutty aroma.

A must-try is Sopa de Peixe, a fish soup that usually includes local fish varieties simmered with vegetables, garlic, and herbs. It’s simple but delicious.

And What’s For Dessert?

Just like in mainland Portugal, no meal is complete without a cup of coffee at the end. Local Azorean coffee, which is mainly grown in Sao Jorge, has a unique flavor. Enjoy it as a simple espresso or Azorean style with milk. Also, you might want to order Fofas de Faial with your coffee. Those are a choux pastry containing a creamy filling and topped with a generous layer of powdered sugar.

Obviously, Queijo do Faial, the island’s local cheese is a must. It is more creamy and milder than the kinds you find on the island of Sao Jorge.

It’s just delicious with a piece of freshly baked bread and a glass of local wine or a sweet liqueur. While Faial doesn’t have vineyards, Pico is just a stone’s throw away across the waters. There, award-winning wines and spirits are produced.

Cash and Cards

Until now, 20 European countries replaced their former local currency with the €uro starting in 2002. Obviously, Portugal is one of them. The exchange rate is 1 US$ = 0.92 EUR as of December 2024. However, you can check today’s conversion rate on this page.

You can pay by credit card at basically every business. Nevertheless, you’ll need cash for instance for the bus.

Language

Language and communication in the Azores are deeply rooted in the region’s history, geography, and culture. The official language is Portuguese, obviously. Many of the settlers who colonized the islands in the 15th century were from various regions of Portugal where older forms of Portuguese were spoken, so remnants can still be found in Azorean dialects. As a matter of fact, each of the nine islands has variations in accent, vocabulary, and pronunciation, making Azorean Portuguese quite diverse. Despite these differences, speakers from the islands can generally understand each other, and the dialects are still considered part of the broader Portuguese language family.

The Azores has a significant history of emigration, particularly to the US, Canada, and Brazil. Therefore, in communities with strong ties to emigrant families, many Azoreans speak both Portuguese and English. In fact, English has become a secondary language in some areas due to the large Azorean diaspora in English-speaking countries. Also, due to international tourism, basically everyone working in that field speaks English more or less fluently.

Nevertheless, if you want to learn some basic Portuguese or just brush up on your knowledge, there are various apps and online tools. I personally like to practice with babbel.

Connection and Communication

Since June 2017, no roaming charges have applied within the EU with a European mobile phone contract. This applies to all 27 countries of the European Union as well as Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway. It pertains to all contracts.

When roaming is not available, you can connect to the internet at basically every museum, eatery, and, of course, hotel.

If you insist on being online 24/7, you can get a SIM card. For the best network coverage and balance of data options, MEO is considered the top choice for tourists visiting the Azores, especially for travelers heading to more remote islands. They offer prepaid SIM cards for tourists, MEO Go being the best option for tourists. You can get 15GB of data for 15 €uros, valid for 15 days. After that, you can top up, obviously.

MEO SIM cards can be purchased at Lisbon or Porto airports, in case you’re arriving in mainland Portugal first. Otherwise, you can get them at MEO stores across the Azores.

Other popular companies are Vodafone, NOS, and Lycamobile.

In Portugal, they use plug types C and F. Their voltage is 230 V and the frequency 50 Hz. Whereby, as nowadays all these chargers have integrated adapters, in general, the voltage and frequency don’t really matter.

By the way, you’ll find comprehensive travel info in my post World’s Most Complete Travel Information – an indispensable globetrotter-classic.

Map

On this map, I’m showing you where to find the spots worth visiting during a stay on the island of Faial. Clicking on the slider symbol at the top left or the full-screen icon at the top right will display the whole map including the legend.

Endearing Faial was just one of the islands I visited while island hopping in the Azores. To read about the others, go to this post and take your pick!

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