RIGA – a guide to Latvia’s entrancing capital

Follow my guide to Riga, Latvia’s entrancing capital. Although Riga is a modern and forward-looking metropolis, Latvia’s capital preserves proudly its cultural identity, traditions, and melancholic charm.

Musicians at Ethnographic Museum in Riga, Latvia's entrancing capital
After having been ethnically oppressed for the longest time, the Latvians happily and proudly rediscover their cultural heritage.

At this moment, the Baltic states are in some sort of touristy limbo: Certainly not an insider tip anymore, Latvia is still far from being overrun by large tourist groups.

New Shores

Since Latvia, together with the other Baltic states Lithuania and Estonia, was part of the Soviet Union till 1991, these states stagnated pretty much unnoticed by the western world behind the iron curtain. 

Latvian Academy of Sciences in Riga, Latvia's entrancing capital
Built 1958 Stalinist Building of Latvian Academy of Sciences

For the longest time, I had never heard of anybody travelling to one of these young republics – despite the fact that they had joined the European Union in 2004. During the first years after their independence, I even wasn’t always sure which capital belonged to which country.

In 2016, however, I spent two weeks in Milan learning Italian. Although most of my classmates were aspiring artists from China who were learning Italian to study in Venice, Florence, or Turin, there were also some middle-aged students from the Baltics. All of them were highly educated professionals working for the European Union or other prestigious institutions.

Three Brothers in Riga, Latvia's entrancing capital
Two of the iconic Trīs brāļi, the Three Brothers, a historic building complex. Funnily, in Estonia’s capital Tallinn, they have a complex by the name of the Three Sisters – you find it in this post.

They were proof of how much there was going on in the Baltic countries that are still overshadowed by the prepotential Western European states.

Arrival in Riga

It’s Wednesday before Easter when we board air baltic flight BT254 to Riga, Latvia’s entrancing capital and with around 700,000 inhabitants the largest city in the Baltic region. 
We caught an evening flight and with the time lag, we lose an additional hour so we just crash as we get to our apartment, located halfway between the airport and the city center.

In this guide: Latvian wooden houses in RIGA, Latvia's entrancing capital
There is still a large number of traditional wooden houses even in Latvian cities.

The next morning, we take the bus at the stop where we got off the night before and head for the old town. We like what we see from our bus windows: Many trees lining the streets, parks, wooden houses – everything is a bit Slavic and at the same time a bit Scandinavian. And cozy.

In this guide: Latvian National Library in RIGA, Latvia's entrancing capital.
As the buses cross the Daugava River, we turn our heads to spot the National Library of Latvia, the so-called Castle of Light that Latvian-born architect Gunnar Birkerts designed in 2014.

We have less than one hour till our walking tour begins, so we just stop for a bite at the next available café – and get lucky: We grab a quick breakfast at a café bar which is as trendy as expected.

In this guide: Latvian Kuuka Café in RIGA, Latvia's entrancing capital.
Kuuka Café on Grēcinieku iela 5 is a good breakfast spot when you need a quick start to the day.

With full stomachs, we are pacing to St. Peter’s. It’s Riga’s tallest church, built from these red bricks that are typical for North German Baltic architecture, and opened in 1746
Later we’ll find out that this won’t be the only feature that deems familiar.

Meeting with our Guide in RIGA, Latvia's entrancing capital.
You’ll recognize the free tour-people by the yellow suitcase – which hopefully is empty since poor Liga was carrying it during the entire tour.

Walking With Liga

At the main entrance, we join one of these free walking tours, guided by Liga, a fine-boned blond in her mid-twenties.

Latvian House of the Blackheads in RIGA, Latvia's entrancing capital. Seen on our guided tour.
Another epochal landmark is the newly rebuilt House of the Blackheads, originally built in the early 14th century.

Guiding us through the narrow alleys of the historic center, she explains as briefly as she can the everchanging and complicated history of her people that experienced independence only briefly from 1918 till 1940 and now again – and hopefully for good – since 1991.

Cultural Melting Pot

Over the centuries, Latvia was under Swedish, German, Polish, and Russian hegemony. The city’s predominant architecture stems from the grand times when Riga was an important member of the Hanseatic League – I wrote about this conglomerate in my post on the Mother of the Hanse, Lübeck.

Hence, for centuries, the German upper classes represented Latvia’s bourgeoisie and landowners. During the Reformation, Latvia became Lutheran, later, under the Polish, it became partly Catholic again.

Riga Roman Catholic Church Our Lady of Sorrows
Roman Catholic Church Our Lady of Sorrows…..

However, in 2016, Riga was awarded the honorary title of Reformation City of Europe by the Community of Protestant Churches in Europe. Nonetheless, more than 40 percent of Latvia’s population is confessionless.

Riga A nun and a priest in front of St. Jacob's Church
….and Roman Catholics with no sorrows in front of the St. Jacob’s Church, built in the early 13th century.

So Liga, dressed in existentialist black, is telling us about the buildings and the history and everyday life in Riga and about the Latvian mentality and quirks and she does it in a laconic, almost sarcastic way and I can read the melancholy and the atrabiliousness of grey skies and long winters between the lines. 

Not only is she wearing only black, also her humor is as black as a raven’s wing.

Graffiti in Riga, Latvia
It’s very hip to be a cultural traditionalist: Mural of three – nota bene: Estonian! – peasants, to be found at the restored Kalnciema quarter on the left bank of the Daugava river. Actually, this is an art project by Estonian artist Edward von Lõngus who painted Estonians from the past 100 years in different European cities.

National Identity

She’s singing and dancing traditional folkloric dances. 
No, of course not here in front of us on the Doma Laukums, the huge square in front of the cathedral where we are standing now.

The Doma Laukums, Riga's largest square, surrounded by many stately buildings.
The Doma Laukums, Riga’s largest square, surrounded by many stately buildings.

No, she’s singing and dancing Latvian traditionals in her leisure time, obviously. Because for young, hip Latvians, these traditions are the symbol of their very young freedom to express their ethnic identity. An ethnic identity that, however, does not lead to dull nationalism or a grotesque superiority complex. They just enjoy their identity – as Latvians and Europeans alike.

Roland statue, St. Peter's church tower, the Schwab house and the House of the Blackheads in Riga, Latvia
Representatives of Riga: Roland statue, St. Peter’s church tower, the Schwab house, and the House of the Blackheads.

Most youngsters speak at least three languages, Latvian, Russian, and English. Many speak further tongues – I’ve met some of them in Milan, remember?

Roland Statue in Riga, latvia
Another remnant from the German epoch is the Roland statue which represents freedom and independence of a city.

We get to the iconic House of Blackheads and the neighboring Schwab House, designed by Karl Johann Felsko at the end of the 19th century. Also, in front of these prestigious buildings stands the statue of Roland, the symbol of Hansa trading cities, with the Riga coat of arms on his shield.
Traces of Riga’s German influence and heritage, ironically, completely destroyed in WWII during a German air raid.

Memorial of the first Christmas Tree in Riga
The first written record of a decorated Christmas Tree comes from Rig. In 1510, members of the merchants’ guild decorated a tree with artificial roses and set it on fire after they danced around it.

I’m surprised that despite the long German hegemony and the German occupation during WWII, there seem to be no hard feelings towards Germany.

No Union With The Soviet Union

In contradistinction to Russia: While I keep asking how things were when Latvia was part of the Soviet Union, Liga answers willingly, but keeps referring to that period as the time of occupation
Semantic matters.

Latvian Riflemen statue in Riga, Latvia
This intimidating granite statue was originally dedicated to the Latvian Red Riflemen, some of whom even became Lenin’s personal bodyguards. Some despise the monument as a symbol of the old communist system, others believe it’s a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in the early years of WWI. Politics aside, it’s an impressive monument. Riga Technical University is the oldest technical university in the Baltics established on October 14, 1862.

So for us, Liga doesn’t either dance or sing, she’s walking’n’talking and showering us with information until the tour is over: We’ve reached the backside of St. Peter’s church where in front of St. John’s church we encounter a well-known sculpture, namely the Bremen town musicians.
It was a gift from the city of….Bremen. It is an interpretation of the original statue, since, unlike the Bremen original, the animals built their formation between two massive metal bands. This way, the animals seem to be surprised by this gap in the Iron Curtain.

Town Musicians of Riga, Latvia
Town musicians: Cousins from out of town.

While in Bremen, you have to rub the donkey’s hooves – actually, only one, here you have to try to reach as high as you can. Yes, you are allowed to jump.

Souvenir stands in Riga, Latvia
Handmade souvenirs sold at small stands between St. Peter’s and St. John’s.

So the tour comes to an end, I hand Liga a 10 €uro bill and we check out the shopping opportunities right on this square and eventually the very touristy yet nice market Suvenīru tirgus on Tirgoņu iela.

Matrjoski in Riga, Latvia
Russian influence cannot be denied. Although today, the Matrjoski also come in updated shapes….

Traditional Handcraft

Here, too, traditional handcraft is presented right next to Costa Coffee and other international chains. So after a global Latte Macchiato, we browse at the stands offering all kinds of beautifully carved wooden toys and kitchen appliances, colorful embroidered aprons; and mittens, lots and lots of mittens.

Wool and woolen products in Riga, Latvia
Wool to the left, woolen products to the right – just take your pick.

Obviously, knitting is an important handcraft in a region with long winters and the artistic, traditional mittens are sheer masterpieces – colorful and unique.

We are torn between buying mittens and socks and oversized shawls and purchasing loads of wool to knit them ourselves.

Cups in a store in Riga, Latvia
They sure are into knitted goods: Cups’n’vases in a knitted design.

I reminisce on the 1980s when knitting was really big and I had more hand-knitted sweaters than any other garments in my closet. Therefore, I opt for 20 different balls of wool in bold colors.
Later, I’ll download some traditional patterns from the internet.

The Central Market

Now that we are so in this rural, traditional swing, we swing underneath the arterial road Satekles iela to the Centrāltirgus, Riga’s central market.

Graffiti in Riga, Latvia
Three more Estonian peasants painted on the walls of the dull underpass between the market neighborhood and the city center.

Built from 1924 to 1930 in art deco style, it is Europe’s largest market and one of the most notable structures in Latvia and has even made it onto the UNESCO World Heritage Site list together with Old Riga in 1998.

Market in Riga
Sweets’n’Treats.

Here, again, tradition and modernity. While you can get all kinds of local produce – arranged in a very instagramable way – the food stalls are rather globally oriented: You feast on artisan burgers and some Asian cuisine instead of Latvian dumplings or cabbage soup.

Bread on the Market in Riga
Dark Latvian rye bread adorned with lavender.

Well, it’s a real market, not a tourist place faking authenticity.

Fish on the Market in Riga
Great catch: Whole dried fish.

We order burgers made from some special beef and refined with some truffle sauce and are pretty happy with our choices.

Cake on the Market in Riga
Pastry comes in different shapes.

The Moscow District

The market is adjacent to the Moscow District, a neighborhood that once used to be populated by Russians and Jews. In WWII, a part of this area was fenced and transformed into the infamous Jewish Ghetto.

Choral Synagogue Holocause Monument in Riga
The memorial, standing where once the Synagogue of Riga was found, honors those Latvians who granted Jewish people shelter from persecution. Sadly, in the Baltics, the Nazis encountered strong support from locals in persecuting and murdering the Jewish population.

Today, you can pay the Choral Synagogue Holocaust Monument a visit as well as the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum right next to the Spīķeri district.

The Spīķeri warehouses are looking back at an everchanging history. After having served different purposes, they now have been transformed into one of these hip’n’creative neighborhoods housing startups and agencies, galleries, and restaurants.

This area east of the central market is certainly not the most touristy attraction and exactly for this reason definitely worth a visit.

Heart of Jesus Evangelic Lutheran Church in Riga
Rīgas Jēzus evaņģēliski luteriskā baznīca, the Heart of Jesus Evangelic Lutheran Church – very unusual structure for a Lutheran Protestant church.

The New Town

While the most famous landmarks are scattered around the old city center, a visit to the so-called New Town to the northeast will allow you to discover some spectacular sights.

Coat of Arms on Wall in Riga
The Powder Tower from 1650 is a remnant of the former city fortification and stands next to the Latvian War Museum. Here you can spot it behind the beautiful wall depicting the colorful coats of arms of Latvia’s municipalities.
Coat of Arms on Wall in Riga
Just a few of the many beautiful coats of arms on the wall at Smilšu iela.

Between the Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica bulvāris and the Raiņa bulvāris you can respire’n’relax while strolling along the Bastion Hill and Park.

Freedom Monument in Riga
Aiming high for freedom.

Right in the center is a 19-meter high obelisk, the Freedom Monument, created by Kārlis Zāle and finished in 1935.

National Opera in Riga
Riga’s National Opera wasn’t this national all the time: Constructed in 1863 by St. Petersburg-born German architect Ludwig Bohnstedt, it was built for the then German-speaking City Theatre. However, in 1912 -already a couple of years before the short period of independence – a Latvian opera was founded.

Esplanāde

As you continue for the Bastion Park out of the center, passing the Esplanāde square, you’ll reach Riga’s treasure box, the art nouveau district.

Bastion Park in Riga
Difficult to see the wood – and the freedom statue – for the trees.

But wait, don’t you just pace across the greeneries; take your time to stroll around, admire the Orthodox Cathedral which was built end of the 19th century in a Neo-Byzantine style.

Orthodox Cathedral in Riga
The majestic Orthodox Cathedral…
Orthodox Cathedral in Riga
….with its shimmering domes covered with copper.

On the Esplanāde’s opposite end,  you’ll spot the Art Academy of Latvia and next to it the National Museum of Art, housing mostly Latvian artists but also different temporary exhibits.

Statue of Janis Plieksans
Raiņa, aka Jānis Pliekšāns, was a Latvian poet, playwright, and translator – i.a. Goethe’s Faust – was living from 1865 to 1929 and is now watching over the beautiful Esplanāde.

Even if you are not that much into art, the building as such is interesting and from the top floor, you have a grand view of the city.

National Museum of Art in Riga
Visiting the Museum of Art’s upper galleries, you’re walking on a glass floor.
National Museum of Art in Riga
View from the museum’s observatory.

Latvian National Museum of Art
Jaņa Rozentāla laukums 1
Rīga, LV-1010
Phone: +371 – 67 32 44 61
Email: lnmm@lnmm.lv

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m., Fridays to 8 p. m. and weekends to 5 p. m.

Art Nouveau

North of the Esplanāde, nearly every building is a piece of art and proves Riga’s economic grandezza at the beginning of the 20th century.

St. Gertrude Old Church in Riga
St. Gertrude Old Church is a Lutheran church in Riga, the capital of Latvia. It is a parish church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia. The church is situated at the address 6 Ģertrūdes Street. It has a long association with Riga’s German ethnic community and the congregation worships in the German language.

Strolling through the streets north of Elizabetes iela is like visiting an outdoor museum. Mainly on the streets Elizabetes iela and Alberta iela, every building flashes an impressive Art Nouveau facade.

Art Deco building in Riga
Look at these two, leaning lasciviously against the gable.

Here, the houses – mostly built between 1904 and 1914 –  are showing amazing decorative details such as sculptures, stained glass, and majolica. Much of these were made by local companies.

Art Deco building in Riga
Adorned lavender-colored house on Ģertrūdes iela.

Actually, these Art Nouveau structures make up about one-third of the buildings in Riga’s center – mind you, the city has the world’s highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture.

Art Deco building in Riga
A fine example of Riga’s precious architecture.

A Compact Country Tour

Yes, there is a lot to see at Riga’s center. However, to us, one of the most impressive venues was the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, located about 30 minutes northeast of the city center.

Church at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum of Riga
The splendid interior of the Usma Lutheran Church on the premises.

Especially since Riga was the only place in Latvia we had the chance to visit, this wonderful outdoor museum was a great opportunity to learn more about all the other regions….which we will visit on our next trip.

House at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
A roof completely covered in moss’n’grass.
Lady in Latvian attire at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
A lady in traditional Latvian attire.

About half an hour by bus north of the city center is one of Europe’s oldest and largest open-air museums: Located on the banks of lake Jugla, incredible 118 historical buildings from all four of Latvia’s provinces have been assembled in a spacious wood. Mind you, the oldest of these buildings stems from the 17th century!

Russian Orthodox church from the Rogovka village in the Latgale region at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
Russian Orthodox church from the Rogovka village in the Latgale region.
Wind MIll at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
Can hardly spot the mill for all the trees.

This place, too, proves the awakened national identity. During the Soviet hegemony, places like this museum were considered ideologically incorrect.

Therefore, today, the museum is not only a touristy place: While we were there, most of the other visitors were locals, many of them families with kids. The museum promotes traditional Latvian culture and lifestyle by organizing concerts and traditional craft fairs.

Dancers at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
The mood’s in full swing.

We were very lucky to visit on Easter when a big traditional market was on which allowed us to witness how Latvians are celebrating their culture by singing and dancing, eating and playing – everyone was having a great time.

Food at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
Sausages, bacon, and meats – at least it’s low in carbs….
Food at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
Look what I’ve found: There are hardboiled eggs hidden in these bread rolls.
Food at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
Four varieties of potatoes on the grill.

Strangers in the Night

After strolling through the small woods and over the meadows, we got to a small farm. A middle-aged man was sitting on the doorstep amidst an array of beautiful, obviously handmade ceramic goods. As we approached him, he grabbed a small ceramic flute and intoned Strangers in the night. He did not only give us a taste of his talent, but he also played the entire song…I would even say it was an extended version.

Wind Mill at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga; Latvia's entrancing capital
An old windmill.
Dwelling at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum in Riga
This is the dwelling where we ran into the stranger in the….daytime.

We bought the most beautiful ones of his cups and saucers and I kept humming Strangers in the Night for the rest of the day; very much to Mimi’s chagrin. 

As we finished our tour, we took seats on one of the rough wooden benches and ordered from a waiter speaking with an almost caricaturish British accent potato fritters with pickles and sour cream. 

Latvian Food in Riga
Sometimes simple peasant’s delight is the best: Potato fritters with sour cream and some fixings – sooo good!

We were amazed at how reasonably priced the food is here, but then we realized again that this is not some sort of Disney world for foreign tourists, but a place where Latvians get informed about their history and its value. We were paying local prices.

Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
Brīvdabas iela 21
Rīga, LV-1024
Phone: + 371 – 67 99 41 06
Email: info@brivdabasmuzejs.lv

More History

If you are interested in learning more about Latvia’s history, I recommend a visit to at least one of these two museums:

National History Museum of Latvia
Brīvības bulvāris 32,
Rīga, LV-1050
Phone: + 371 – 67 22 13 57
Email: museum@lnvm.lv

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a. m. till 5 p. m.

Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation
alasta iela 4
Rīga, LV-1050
Phone: +371 – 67 35 66 76
Email: direkt@rigamuz.lv

The museum is open daily from 10 a. m. till 5 p. m.

Practical Information

How to Get There

There are a couple of airlines serving Riga’s international airport including Latvia’s national one, air Baltic.

Sign at the Airport in Hamburg, going to Riga, Latvia by air baltic
Latvia’s national airline airBaltic caters to many destinations at a good price. However, their luggage policy is quite rigid.

A cab from the airport to the city center should cost you about 15 €uros. However, the bus system in Riga is very reliable, and bus number 22 is running between 5.40 a. m.  and 11.20 p. m. and sets you back only 2 €uro.

Of course, Riga has also a train station. However, travelling by bus is pretty comfortable. The long-distance busses are clean and punctual and almost equipped like planes with reclining seats and a great entertainment program. On our way from Tallinn to Riga, which took only four hours, we were able to listen to the latest hits and watch films that made it to the movie theaters only recently; and all this for about 15 €uros.

Riga Alley
Walking the picturesque alleys in Riga’s city center.

If you are planning on travelling within Latvia or paying the other Baltic states a visit, make sure to check out their schedules and offers.

Ecolines
Prāgas iela 1 (Riga International Coach Terminal)
Phone: +371 – 67 21 45 12
Email: info@ecolines.lv

How to Get Around

As stated above, public transportation in Riga is as excellent as in any other European city. Although there is no subway, the tram is great and even the many busses are very reliable.

Town Hall Square Riga
Major parts of the inner city are pedestrian – like Riga’s Town Hall Square.

You can buy your ticket from the driver which is a bit more expensive. Therefore, a better option is to get them at the machines that you’ll find at many stops. Here you can also buy a couple of tickets in advance and validate them only as you need them – in case you need to take the bus at a stop where there’s no machine.

There is a day pass for public transportation that you can get at the tourist information

Like in many other European cities, there are also bike rentals all over the city, e.g. by the car rental company Sixt and Riga Bike Rent.

Where to Stay

You can book all kinds of accommodation in Riga, okay-priced in the city center and very reasonable in the outskirts.
Since we arrived quite late and had then an early morning flight back, we opted for staying halfway between the airport and the center. This turned out to be the perfect location: 15 minutes downtown, 15 minutes to the airport.
We stayed at two different guest apartments that were very well equipped and maintained and cost us between 30 and 40 €uros a night.

If you like the location but prefer to stay at a hotel, there is the Rex Elephant* very nearby.

However, you can check out the availability and prices of other great lodging options on this map*:

Booking.com

What to Eat

As I explained, the market is great to awe and browse and to get some fresh produce but it’s not worth the visit if you want to dine out.

Black Current Liquor from Riga, Latvia
A traditional drink – and also a nice souvenir. But remember that liquids have to go in your check-in luggage.

For this, we’d found the perfect place right in the city center: It’s a traditional, rustic, dark, and noisy restaurant in a cellar, stone walls, wooden chairs, benches, and tables, Latvian classics blaring from the speakers.

Braised ox cheek on mashed celery
Braised ox cheek on mashed celery – melted in my mouth.
Salad
Mimi’s vegetarian option: Roasted pumpkin and cheese with many different fixings.

Friendly, English-speaking waiters bring you a quite small menu from which you can choose a variety of typical Latvian delicacies. Latvian cuisine at last! Latvian cuisine at its best!
Choosing the right beer with your food is almost more challenging than picking the right dish. There are so many great options!

Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs
Peldu iela 19
Rīga, LV-1050
Phone: +371 – 27 79 69 14

Open daily from noon till at least 1 a. m., from Wednesday to Saturday even till early morning.

What to Buy

The markets in the city center are quite nice and you find all kinds of woolen’n’wooden handcraft there.

Great Latvian things to shop for are wooden kitchen appliances and toys.

Riga Latvia - Gentlemen selling wooden goods
A gentleman selling wooden utensils and darling toys at the Ethnographic Museum.

However, if there is something special on at the Ethnographic Museum, it’s totally worth going there. Although it’s about 30 minutes by bus, it’s a wonderful, serene place. Also, the handicraft at their stands was cheaper than anywhere downtown.

Riga Latvia Ceramic and Wooden Souvenirs
My favorite souvenirs from Latvia are this handmade cup and saucer – and I love these wooden fasteners that can be used to keep coffee, flour, sugar, and much fresher. They are so much nicer than the plastic clips I used to use.

If you like to knit, you can get high-quality wool in beautiful colors at a really great price. I paid less than 3 €uro for a 100 grams ball. If you’re looking for a unique souvenir, they have these cute boxes containing wool, needles, and the pattern for a pair of mittens. These boxes come in many different styles, your biggest problem will be picking one. And in case you and your loved ones are all thumbs, you can just get the handmade mittens; and stockings; or shawls…

If you want to test your knitting skills, there are two great places to buy wool at the historic center:

Hobbywool
Mazā Pils iela 6
Rīga, LV-1050
Phone: +371 – 27 07 27 07

The store is open every day from 10 a. m. to 7 p. m.
Sundays only from 11 a. m. to 5 p. m.

Tines
Riharda Vāgnera iela 5
Rīga, LV-1050
Phone: +371 25 42 44 77

Tines is open every day from 11 a. m. to 7 p. m., Sundays only till 4 p. m.

Language

Most people speak Latvian – which might seem obvious, but is actually quite a big deal. During the Soviet hegemony, the language was pretty much banned.
During the Soviet policy of Russification, the percentage of Latvian sank from 80 to about 50 percent.
The Russian minority speaks, obviously, Russian, and especially the young people speak at least English as a third language. Will say, you’ll be fine.

Money

Until now, 20 European countries replaced their former local currency with the €uro starting in 2002. In 2014, Latvia, as a member of the European Union, replaced its previous currency lats with the €uro. The exchange rate is 1 US$ = 0.94 EUR as of January 2023. However, you can check today’s conversion rate on this page.

Euro coins and bills as well as credit dards
Besides €uro, credit cards are widely accepted in Latvia.

Credit cards are widely accepted, and you’ll find ATMs all over the place.

Tourist Information And Deals

It’s pretty amazing that there is a tourist information at Riga’s airport open 24/7. I’ve never seen this in any other city.

However, if you arrive really late, you might just want to go to sleep. Then, the next morning, you’ll have a fresh start in this entrancing city.

There you’ll find three more info centers. One is very centrally located at the Schwab House right next to one of Riga’s most famous landmarks, the House of the Blackheads.

Riga Tourist Information Centre
Rātslaukums 6
Riga
Phone: +371- 67 03 79 00
Email: info@rigatic.lv

At your disposal every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Riga is not an expensive city so the Riga Pass does not seem to be such a great deal. It costs for 24 hours 25 €uros and 30 respectively 35 €uros for 48 or 72 hours.
The entrance fee to the permanent exhibition of the Latvian National Museum of Art is 3 €uro and to the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum 4 €uro, just to give you two examples. Therefore, spending 25 €uro in 24 hours seems like a big challenge to me.

Also, bus tickets are 2 €uro – or less when you buy them from a machine at the bus stop. But Riga isn’t that big and you’ll probably spend most of your day walking around.
As I explained, we didn’t even stay very close to the center and still had to buy only two or three tickets a day.

I’m an avid solo-travelling woman. Since solo-travel doesn’t equal solitude, I love to join organized tours here and there. They allow me to meet fellow travellers – for just a short moment or a lifelong friendship.

Especially if you have only a short time for exploring the city of Riga, an organized trip will enable you to make the best of it*:

Map

On this map, you’ll find all the wonderful places I’m introducing in this post.
Clicking on the slider symbol at the top left or the full-screen icon at the top right will display the whole map including the legend.

If you like this post and want to learn about another wonderful city in the Baltics, here’s a post about Tallinn, Estonia’s cool capital.

Pinnable Pictures

If you choose to pin this post, please use one of these pictures:

Note: I’m completing, editing, and updating this post regularly – last in January 2023.

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87 Replies to “RIGA – a guide to Latvia’s entrancing capital”

  1. Hello there, just read your blog about Riga and found that it’s really informative. I’m going to watch out for Brussels. I would appreciate it if you add me to your Newsletter so I don’t miss any post in the future. Cheers!

    1. Hi Shauna, I do have a post on Brussels – as well as other Belgian cities. And I’m pleased to add you to my recipients of the Monthly Calendar Sheet (which is kind of my newsletter 😉 )

  2. I think this is one of the most comprehensive information on Riga. I am glad reading your article. And also the other posts on this website are just perfect. Good job, Cheers!

  3. You introduced some amazing places here. I looked on the net for a comprehensive guide and discovered the most complete one on your site 🙂

  4. I discovered your site just recently and I’m thrilled to have found your guide on Riga. It is so helpful!

  5. Thank you for sharing. Your blog post is interesting and informative. I think many people like it and visit it often, including me. Lloyd Mccabe

  6. Latvians are proud of their history and culture and are not afraid to show it. One of the coolest Latvia cultural festivals is the Cesis Castle Medieval Fair. It is on one day of the year when the natives do their traditional and medieval clothes and live a day in the middle ages. The Cesis Castle is a beautiful castle located just an hour ride away from the capital, Riga. The sprawling castle lawns, gardens, dungeons and the museum are open for tourists, visitors and participants on this day where people have loads of fun reminiscing the medieval days. There is food, art and dance in the premises where one can either sit back and watch or participate in. The doors of the famous Saint John Church is open for all during the fair.

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  8. Oh my goodness! Impressive article
    dude! Many thanks, However I am having issues with your RSS.
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    1. Thanks, John, I’m glad you like it. Regarding RSS I cannot give you any advice. If that’s something I needed to install, I have to inform you that I didn’t. I’m posting every weekend, hence, if you check my site every Sunday, you won’t miss a post. Also, I recommend subscribing to my CALENDAR SHEET. That’s a newsletter that will inform you which posts will be published that very month. You’ll find the form in the sidebar.

  9. It is very important to have good thoughts in mind to write a beautiful post, and your mind seems very clear, that is why you have written such a beautiful post, this post is worthy of praise.

  10. There’s so much to do in this city! I loved seeing the hand crafted and artistic items like the mugs that looked like sweater textures.

  11. Thank you for sharing such a detailed and amazing experience! Rigs sounds incredible to visit and seems there’s so much to do. I love the statues in your photos all throughout the capital too.

  12. I’ve actually wanted to visit Riga for more than two decades, it’s ridiculous I haven’t made it yet. We did visit Tallinn in Estonia in 2002 but still not made it to Latvia. I’m most drawn to the beautiful architecture and I like that there is both classic and modern. And the different characteristics of the different districts is very appealing.

  13. Riga has long been on my list to visit and I had plans to go this year if not for the pandemic. After reading this I am leaving Riga at the top of my wanderlust list for when we can move freely with confidence once more! The wall of the Latvian War Museum is incredible and I’d love a chance to visit and get a closer look at all those heraldic crests! And I appreciate the shout-out to the open-air museum, this is one of my favorite ways of learning about cultural life in places I visit, so wonderful to hear that Latvia also has such a fantastic one.

  14. It sounds such a lovely place and just looking at the architecture I’d love to wander around the city and enjoy Riga. The open air museum looks fascinating. I haven’t heard or read about this before, thank you.

  15. I was in the Baltics in 2014 and got all the way to St. Petersburg but regretted not going to Estonia. Now I regret not going to Latvia. Love those yellow suitcases, the first Christmas tree, the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral, and those wooden fasteners!

  16. A very comprehensive guide as always. I’ve not been to Riga or Latvia & it’s on my list, especially after seeing how beautiful it is. I’m always fascinated by visiting the markets on my travels & the ethnography museum looks really interesting too. You can’t beat a walking tour…of any city. Thank you for sharing – I’ll be saving this for when I do get to visit.

  17. How great that we can now enjoy many of these former Soviet places like Riga. I love the idea of a walking tour to get the feel for a new spot and learn more about the history. There were so many more beautiful buildings than I might have expected. Great to get a view of both the old town and the newer areas. The Art Nouveau designs would keep my head swirling for days. You have piqued my interest. Will need to think about adding this to our long travel wish list.

  18. I have not visited Latvia, but your guide really intrigues me. I do love going on walking tours where you can pick up interesting facts that are not in guide books. It is also good to know that there is good vegetarian options available. I think Latvia, and Riga in particular will be added to my bucket list!

  19. This article was great! I love finding the places that many people forget about or don’t know about. I learned a lot reading this. I think the craziest thing I learned was that the young people usually speak at least 3 languages!

  20. Latvia just so rich with its cultures & beautiful spaces to travel to, thanks for sharing this detailed guide about it, I will save this post & add Latvia to my to travel list 😀 cheers, siennylovesdrawing

  21. I love the unique character that the city has and how it is well preserved being a bit separated from the western countries, I would love to explore these places someday soon. Thanks for sharing with us. – Knycx Journeying

  22. I’ve only heard Latvia from movies. Thank you for sharing this guide. I love your photos and this place looks really interesting and worth a visit

  23. looks like a nice and cool place….i hope that there’s an opportunity and immigrant workers are welcome in this country other than tourist…according to photos the country looks prosperous too

  24. I would soooo love to explore more of Eastern Europe once the pandemic is over! Latvia (and several other neighboring countries) have long been on my travel bucket list! I had no idea the Christmas tree originated from Riga! As a German American, I always thought it came from Germany!

  25. It is a city I’d really like to visit soon, it is in Europe and not so far away form where I live. One day I’ll visit it for sure and your post saved me. Thanks for the good info. – Paolo

    1. It’s perfect for a short citybreak – and later, you can hit the beach on the Baltic coast. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for that, but next time, for sure 🙂

  26. Riga has been on my bucketlist for two years now and we had our tickets booked when this darn pandemic hit us… I am keeping my fingers crossed that maybe, just maybe, we’ll make it there for the christmast markets 🙂

  27. Great post. I was checking constantly this weblog and
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  28. Riga looks wonderful. Love your photos. And the paintings of the Estonian peasants are very interesting. The National Library is beautiful. Will have to make my way to Latvia sometime.

  29. I haven’t been to Latvia yet, but it’s definitely on the list. I loved how in-depth this guide was.

  30. I haven’t had much of a chance to explore much of Eastern and Northern Europe except for Poland. Riga looks so interesting and authentic as if it hasn’t been touched by a tourism industry yet. Definitely on my list.

  31. Never been to Latvia, but it is on my bucket list! The National Library architecture is very interesting – reminds me of the wave shaped building in Dubai. The knitted designs of cups and mugs are beautiful! There is so much history with churches, cathedrals and other structures. I am bookmarking your post for future reference. 🙂

  32. I have been to Estonia and Russia and love all the aspects of the culture and so Riga would definitely be a place I would love to visit. I think Eastern Europe has such a fascinating history and the architecture is very different from that in central Europe. Riga is going on to my list!

  33. This was a very interesting read. You don’t hear much about Latvia and I honestly didn’t know anything about it. I like how you did a city tour. I always find this the best way to learn a bit of the history behind the city I am visiting.

  34. Wow! This looks like a wonderful place! So much history and culture to explore. Thank you for sharing so many helpful details. I would love to go here. I love the souvenirs you brought home as well.

  35. Not made it here yet, looks fab though. Hopefully Air Baltic will start flying from Malta again because Riga is high on the wish list. The local food, always a major highlight for me looks yum!

  36. I was so looking forward to exploring Latvia and some of the other Baltic countries this year, it was on our list. Hopefully we’ll be able to squeez them in on next years (keping my fingers crossed!) list of trips! Tallin and Vilnius is on my top 🙂

  37. There’s some really interesting and intriguing architecture. Such an impressive range from big grandiose buildings to little wooden houses. I don’t know what I imagined about Latvia, but it wasn’t this. Truly enlightening. p.s. I’d loved one of those little yellow suitcases. 😉

  38. Rīga looks like a great city and I’m especially intrigued by the history and architecture. I hope to eventually get out to Eastern Europe to see some of these less touristed destinations.

  39. My only experience of Riga was with Air Baltic— tight connection at Riga, but their luggage policy enforcement wasn’t too strict 🙂 it looks really lovely, and I would love to spend some more time there

  40. It was great to take a tour round Riga with your blog leaning about the history, the monuments, experiencing the markets. What a great city, I need to visit some day soon!

    1. Oh my goodness! This brings back so many memories. I was in Riga the winter of 2019. Those were good times, right before the madness of covid hit us all. I love how detailed your post is about the history of Latvia and places to visit while there.

    1. Yes, you do! They put a smile on my face every time I use them. They are not only beautiful, but they are also really handy. So even if there was no other reason to visit Latvia…. 😀

    1. You’re very welcome, glad you like it. Yes, the cities in the Baltic states are definitely intriguing. Probably due to the long sleep in the thorns….

  41. I have friends who adopted two teenage daughters from Latvia and visited many times during their adoption process. It always intrigued me, but this post makes me even more interested in visiting someday!

    1. Wow, how exciting! It’s definitely worth visiting – it’s very beautiful, varied, and very interesting and inspiring. I’ll be back, for sure!

  42. Wow! I don’t know if I’ve ever considered Latvia for a vacation before, but it looks so beautiful, and so much culture! Definitely adding it to my list.

  43. Thanks for this beautiful post! I’ve read a lot about Latvia and Riga and it looks like such an amazing place! I have no idea why I’ve never considered visiting it, but it’s on the list now.

  44. We have considered Latvia a few times in the past. Seeing all the great stuff in your guide makes me definitely want to go now. What a charming city with plenty to see and do!

  45. I’ve wanted to go to Latvia for a while now, and people always look at me weird when I say that. I’ll have to show them your post. I love the open-air museums and the food looks delicious!

    1. Don’t listen to people, Pam. Riga is a great city – and we didn’t even have the time to make it to the beach. I will definitely be back <3

  46. This is an interesting and comprehensive guide to a compelling travel destination. I’ve never been to Riga, but I felt like I was right there with you walking through the streets and experiencing everything with you. The images are spectacular and truly seem to capture the enriching culture and spirit of Riga!

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