In the 19th and 20th centuries, millions of people left Europe for the Americas in search of a better life – choosing a migration route through North German ports.
As a counterpart to the arrival halls in Ellis Island, several museums in German cities remember the adventurous journeys of the emigrants in transit.
Migration and Me
All my life, stories of emigration intrigued me. The idea of leaving everything behind in search of a better life – whether for religious, political, or economic reasons. In times when there was no internet, when certain territories were white spots on the globe. How courageous – or desperate – were these people to just go….not knowing where.
Maybe it’s because I’m a child of emigrants.
In 1968, my parents left the former CSSR after invasion of the Warsaw Pact. We only had to cross the border to Western Germany, still, I find their move pretty brave.
After all, they didn’t have a clue what to expect. They had never been to Germany before, and my father didn’t speak one word German. Also, they had a five-year-old in tow. And most of all, they had left their families and friends and also most of their belongings behind without any certainty if they ever see any of them again.
However, what they did was, obviously, nothing compared to people crossing deserts or oceans, fleeing wars or famines. They actually risk their lives during the transit.
Migration to the “New World”
I have this personal connection to emigration. Therefore, every time I visited New York, I visited Ellis Island. Here, I found the whole subject united in a heart-wrenching exhibition.
It touched me deeply seeing all the different attires, small appliances, pictures, and toys. Mostly worthless stuff. Nevertheless, it had been so precious to their owners, they made room for it in their small suitcases.
How much did these people know about their destination?
What were they expecting?
Strolling through these halls where the faith of so many was determined, I suddenly spotted a placard. A young woman, sitting on a suitcase, obviously sobbing, her hands covering her face. The writing was in German and warning young women to accept job offers from America.
Next to it was another placard advertising for the HAPAG.
As in Hamburg-Amerikanische Packetfahrt-Actien-Gesellschaft, the shipping company located in Hamburg – where I was from?
What was that all about?
Of course, Hamburg has one of Europe’s largest and most important harbors. Hence, it makes total sense that people started their adventure there.
But why hadn’t I ever heard of this topic back home?
Mr. Albert Ballin
One of Hamburg’s most prestigious boulevards overlooking the Alster lake is the Ballindamm. It is, obviously, named after a very interesting person, namely Albert Ballin.
Albert Ballin was born in Hamburg in 1857 to Jewish parents – Mr. Samuel Joseph Ballin and his wife Amalie. In 1852, Samuel Joseph Ballin had founded the migration agency Morris & Co. This agency facilitated passages first to England and further to North America.
Due to the father’s death and to provide for the family in 1874, the son got in charge of business at the age of 17. After all, Albert Ballin had eight siblings to take care of.
Business kept growing. In 1882, 17 percent of all emigrations to the US were transacted by Morris & Co.
However, Ballin left Morris & Co. in 1886 and started to work for the HAPAG. There, he built a fast career for himself and made the company the world’s largest shipping line.
It was Ballin’s idea to install steerage decks. This way, the passage was far cheaper and affordable for more of the poor migrants. Henceforth, he was able to increase the number of passengers dramatically.
Since during the wintertime crossing the Atlantic was far more unpleasant and dangerous, fewer passengers booked a passage. Smart cookie Ballin tried something new. In 1891, he offered what he called an educational and pleasure trip around the Mediterranean.
What a success that was! The ship Augusta Victoria was completely booked out!
This was actually the birth of cruise trips.
A Suitcase Packed with Hope
Over five million people left Europe between 1859 and 1934 via the Port of Hamburg. Clearly, much of that credit goes to Albert Ballin.
Coming from Afar
Many people – mainly from Southern Germany – were in search of a higher and more stable income. Jewish people felt the urge to leave Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States because of terrible pogroms. And those who were indecisive were encouraged by the HAPAG’s agents sent even to the most remote villages.
It was an entire industry. These agents made it sound very easy and comfortable. This way, they sold sort of an all-inclusive-package to that not so worldly lot in the East-European hinterland.
No, you cannot compare them to today’s refugee smugglers. Although there were cases where emigrants got cheated on and betrayed, usually, everything went fair and square. Mind you, the companies operated under governmental control.
Creating a Departure Hall
However, the high number of foreigners in transit caused problems for the city of Hamburg. The people – entire families – arrived in the city and sometimes had to wait for many days for their passage. They had nowhere to go. They squatted in the streets. The Hamburgers were annoyed.
Of course, our friend Albert had a solution even for this problem. South of the river Elbe, he built the emigration halls. On a terrain of almost 600,000 square feet, he installed in total about 30 buildings. Those were containing sleeping and living areas, dining rooms, and bathrooms. Also, there was a music pavilion and a church as well as a synagogue.
This way, his clients were able to wait for their passage in a comfortable and safe environment.
Getting Ready For The Big Crossing
An important feature were the exam rooms where doctors performed medical examinations of the migrants. These strict controls before they entered the ships granted a very low quota of rejections at the port of arrival. It was only around 3 percent.
So I made the connection between those placards in Ellis Island and the HAPAG and Albert Ballin. Nevertheless, I kept wondering why in Germany, nobody seemed to be interested in this story. After all, it is an important part of Hamburg’s history.
But I think that’s exactly the reason. It is not really Hamburg’s history; at least not the history of the Hamburgers.
The emigrants came from other, more remote and rural areas. They came from Eastern Europe. They were not from Hamburg. Why should the people of Hamburg care about their fate? They were here in transit for a couple of days – that’s it.
However, in 2003, there was finally a first exhibition on emigration through the port of Hamburg – and I was happy. They set up very nicely on the museum ship Cap San Diego in the very harbor. This gave visitors the feel of being on board of one of those ships.
A highly informative exhibition including a movie and some audio stations.
The exhibition was called A Suitcase Packed With Hope. In addition, Belgian illustrator Gilbert Declercq made a comic book with the same title. It’s the story of the young woman by the name of Enzi who leaves her home in South Germany for America.
It is a great endorsement, especially when visiting the exhibition with kids.
There is still a small part of the show on display. So if visiting the Cap San Diego, make sure to have a look at the remains.
Cap San Diego
Phone: + 49 – 40 – 36 42 09
Open daily from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m. (unless the Cap San Diego is on tour)
The BallinStadt in Hamburg
The reason why today there are only humble remains on the Cap San Diego is actually a nice one.
Finally, in 2007, on the original grounds of the emigration halls, they opened a museum.
For this purpose, some of the original halls were reconstructed.
But first, let’s go back in time:
Building a City
The first construction phase of the emigrations halls in the Veddel district South of the river Elbe ended in 1901. Since the premises had direct connection to the railway, the emigrants could avoid the city of Hamburg all together.
Instead, they went straight to their interim lodgings.
The emigration industry got bigger and bigger, hence they added more halls. In 1913, the all-time high reached as much as 170,000 emigrants.
Between 1891 and 1914, almost 2 million people had left Europe via the Port of Hamburg mainly to the US.
During WWI, the buildings were transformed into sickbays.
After the war, the halls served again as shelters for emigrants, but the numbers had decreased dramatically. Between 1918 and 1954, only approximately 300,000 emigrants were registered in Hamburg.
After WWII, families who had lost their homes in air raids found shelter in these buildings .
Nonetheless, step by step, all the buildings were demolished.
In 2007, today’s BallinStadt museum opened its gates and is spread over three reconstructed halls.
With all the touching destinies and fantastic hands-on exhibits, it is a great place of remembrance for all ages. You can really follow the emigrants on their exciting way to an unknown future.
The museum can be easily reached by urban train. Still, a more alluring way is to get there by ferry crossing the river Elbe.
Veddeler Bogen 2
Phone: +49 – 40 – 319 79 16-0
The museum is open daily from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m. from March till October. Then, from November to February, it’s open from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.
The Hapag-Hallen in Cuxhaven
It became more and more difficult for the HAPAG’s huge emigrant ships to access the harbor of Hamburg on the river Elbe.
To avoid complicated maneuvers, from 1889 on, passages to America started mostly at the port of Cuxhaven. This city is located about 120 kilometers west of Hamburg on the shores of the North Sea.
However, till 1937, Cuxhaven was politically part of the city of Hamburg. Therefore, the ‘Big Brother’ was able to take advantage of Cuxhaven’s direct access to the North Sea.
Today, on the second floor of the terminal building on Cuxhaven’s pier Steubenhoeft is an exhibition. Admittedly, at first glance, it doesn’t look very spectacular. However, if you take your time reading the panels, it’s very informative and touching.
Definitely worth the visit.
Nevertheless, compared to the award-winning hands-on exhibition at Bremerhaven and in Hamburg, it is far more austere.
Hapag-Halle / Steubenhöft
Phone: +49 – 4721 – 39 65 460
Norddeutscher Lloyd in Bremen
The Norddeutscher Lloyd was a Bremen based shipping company founded in 1857 by merchants Hermann Heinrich Meier and Eduard Crüsemann. It quickly became one of the world’s largest and most successful shipping companies. Also because of emigration – just like the HAPAG.
Spoiler alert: In 1970, the Norddeutscher Lloyd and the HAPAG actually merged to the shipping company Hapag-Lloyd AG.
And just like the HAPAG, the Norddeutscher Lloyd installed a very active recruiting program in various European countries.
Although the company’s headquarters remained in the city of Bremen, the port of embarkation was Bremerhaven. This exclave of Bremen is located about 60 km up North where the river Weser empties into the North Sea.
Bremerhaven was built in 1827 to grant Bremen access to the ocean and make business easier.
Migration via Bremerhaven
Especially the increase of emigration to the New World brought Bremerhaven lots of work and money. Subsequently, the cargo was not only beer or coffee or commodity anymore. It was human freight. Between 1830 and 1971, about 7 million people left Europe via the port of Bremerhaven. Altogether, more than through the much bigger city of Hamburg.
Migration Becomes an Industry
So initially, the money from the living freight was made in Bremerhaven. With the construction of the railway in 1862, however, the passengers had quicker and easier access to the ships. Consequently, they did not need to wait right next to the docks.
Hence, they now waited in the city of Bremen – and spent their money rather there.
Germany’s First Museum on Emigration
Bremerhaven was quicker than Hamburg and opened a museum on emigration already in 2005. It sketches the story of emigration in a fantastic, very emotional exhibition that in 2007 won the European Museum of the Year award.
However, basically, the clients were the same groups of people. Hence, business was proceeded in a very similar fashion in Hamburg as in Bremen.
One Last Anecdote
I cannot spare you a last fun fact. In 1885, a certain Friedrich Trump migrated via Bremerhaven to the United States of America. He came from Kallstadt, today located in Rhineland-Palatinate, and intended to evade military service. Obviously, he lived the American dream: In 2017, his grandson had become President.
Columbusstraße 65 D
Phone: + 49 – 471 – 90 22 0 – 0
The museum is open daily from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m. from March till October. Then, from November to February, it opens from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.
Four Places of Remembrance
Feel like visiting these fascinating exhibitions – and need more information on their locations? Here are travel guides to the four cities involved:
Best Way to Travel Between These Cities
If you’re not driving, you can travel between the four cities easily by train. The Deutsche Bahn, Germany’s national train company, offers the so-called Ländertickets. These country tickets are valid for one day in a specific federal state. Every federal state has its own. The costs vary from about 24 to 29 €uro.
For these four cities, a ticket for Lower Saxony is enough. This day pass covers Cuxhaven, but also the city-states Hamburg, Bremen and Bremerhaven. Hence, for one day, it’s all you need.
This day pass, the Niedersachsen-Ticket, costs 24 €uro for one. Then, you have to add another 5 €uro per person travelling with you. So if you are two adults, it will set you back 29 €uro for both of you. Finally, if you travel with four other people, you’ll pay 44 €uro for your party of five. Not bad, right?!
Also, a child under 15 travels for free with two adults.
Altogether, you can actually travel the entire day within the respective federal state. However, you can only take regional trains. Those train numbers beginning with RE, MET, etc. In contrast, not the interregional trains such as the Intercity (IC) or Intercity Express (ICE).
However, if you are travelling by yourself, oneway trips between the cities might be cheaper than a day pass. Therefore and for other connections and rates, please visit the Deutsche Bahn’s website. It’s available in seven languages.
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55 Replies to “From North German Ports to the Americas: Migration in the 19th and 20th Century”
Gracias por proporcionar un sitio web de vínculos de retroceso de alta calidad. Tan bueno
Trato de hacer mi mejor 😉
Enjoyed every bit of your article post. Really thank you!
Really enjoyed reading this article. I had never thought about museums telling the story of emmigrants instead of only telling the story of immigrants. Like you, I really enjoy Ellis Island. If I ever make it to Hamburg, I will definitely learn more about all the people traveling across the Atlantic to the U.S.
Despite living in Germany for three years as a kid and being the product of these very immigrants who braved it all for a new lease on life, I’ve never explored this part of Hamburg before. But now it’s on the top of my list for my next trip to Northern Germany!
Glad to hear that – I’m sure you will love it. And: Let me know when you’re here!
My grandfather immigrated from Germany to Canada in the 40’s. I am so glad that he did, although I would love to visit my roots one day. There is so much history in Germany from that time period.
Should be interesting visiting where he came from – do you know which place it was?
This was fascinating! I agree with you that emigrating somewhere (even today with the internet) is intimidating and a huge feat! I couldn’t imagine having the bravery to do it. I also did not know about Ballin and the first cruises. So interesting
Thanx, Pam, so glad you like it 🙂
I love this post! What a truly compelling and interesting story. I love all the history and insight that you provide! I’ve been to most of these historic places in Germany and absolutely adore Hamburg. I need to go back and visit some of these museums. Thank you for an inspirational presentation of such important history.
I’m very glad I was able to inspire you to come back – especially to Hamburg where I am based 🙂
This is so well researched and interesting. I love seeing your thoughts about your experiences. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, Laurel, glad you appreciate it 🙂
As a migrating German myself it is very ineteresting to read about your experience coming to America. I'm sure a lot of people will find this article very useful 🙂
Making a choice to move from ones home country is never easy whether it is due to a social or economic reason. Hearing parents share such experiences would be like stories but there is a deeper reality in the process and as you rightly put it .. its quite brave.
Such an informative post. I like how you do the research, a well-written post. Thanks a lot for sharing!
What an experience- looks very beautiful and not somewhere I’ve seen that much info on!
I love reading a well researched article, you really took your time to get the facts and for that i appreciate you. Just like you i always wonder what goes into someone's mind when they make the decision to migrate. Personally it's a mix of feelings, exciting to see the unknown and learn new things and then comes the fear of leaving my entire life behind (friends and family)to start a new one. I guess i will never know how to feel about emigration until i make that bold move.
THIS IS A GREAT POST. WOULD LIKE TO VISIT THESE BEAUTIFUL PLACES
This was such an interesting post and it gave me a new perspective on emigration and my own life experiences having emigrating twice once to the US for a few years and now to the UK for almost 8!
What a great perspective as we always see the American side of things. We still have our great grandparents Ellis Island papers. I love this post especially today with all things going on. It is not easy to immigrate and as I tell my kids, most people would love to remain in their own countries if not for the hardships.
When you said that not a lot of people in hamburg seemed interested in this story because it is not their history but the history of immigrants is sad but true in many places. But no one should forget that these peoples helped build towns too and contributed to the society. After all, aren't we all descendants of immigrants at some point in our ancestry?
Oh boy this made me want to cry a little! I think it’s so important to keep this kind of perspective, especially in the current climate where refugees are being turned away all over the world. We need to remember just how hard it must have been for them to make the decision to leave, and that they likely wouldn’t do so unless it was really necessary. Thank you for this beautiful post!
What a beautiful written post. And also so interesting, never look at places this way!
What a fascinating piece of history and to think it has been almost forgotten. Ellis island was never recommended to us but I think I will add it to my must see list
Such an interesting idea for a post and very well put together. I learned a lot about immigration that those of us who haven't really been affected by it probably don't understand. Thanks for sharing your story.
You have written very emotional post about touching the sentiments of immigrants. Due to some unrest in their own country, some people have to choose a new world with lots of hope and heavy heart. But, this is the bitter truth and whole of USA is perfect example of this. The most sentimental moment was seeing the photo of that young lady sobbing and covering her face. Thanks for sharing the immigration story which was carried many years ago and it is still on.
That's an interesting walk into the history of migration. When I visit places, I often don't really look onto these detals, so it is good to see them from you. I think everyone is more concerted wit "nowadays migration".
Very interesting post! You've clearly done your research. The museums look fascinating.
I understand perfectly what you say, change to another state or to another country is a very brave action. Part of my family emigrated from Europe to America and I can imagine how difficult it must have been.
What a fantastic post!
I love well researched posts and this sure is one! I love the way you've linked the sites together for a full story. Great job – keep up the good work
Fascinating post! Really enjoyed reading about the different facets of history and the lives of people who dare to dream!
Well curated post on your journey to America. Like lot the exhibition well captured and displayed.
A very amazing story. I love it. I love the way it's written. Thanks for sharing with us
A very absorbing story indeed. I also have a background of emigration in my family, so I was very interested to read this. A fascinating insight and beautifully written – thank you.
This is such a beautiful story.based on real people who left their countries often due to reasons beyond their control.v infotmatibe
What a wonderful, informative read, its so important that part of history is shared on both sides of the atlantic. Thank you such a fantastic post, I really enjoyed reading it.
I felt like I was on a journey through time… love the Trump bit too haha!
History is always fascinating and I like the way you describe it.
Fascinating, this is a period of history, I know so little about. I’ll be visiting Ellis Island next week myself. But I’d love to see the exhibitions in Germany. It’s always good to see from both sides. Thanks for sharing
very inspiring and educational post. great coverage on the various cities as well with so much information.
The history of migration is very fascinating and I like that in many American cities there are one of more immigration museums divided by geographic provenience of their immigrants.
This is a fantastic read Renata! So touching yet packed with historic facts and information. And now you've made me want to visit all the points of interest you are mentioning such as Ellis Island or Hamburg and Bremen!
The European migrations in 20th century definitely left its mark in many people's hearts and families' histories. I do believe, however, that even when they were made out of "desperation", it still required A LOT of courage to do so, especially back then. Thank you for this article, very interesting read!
I love Germany! One of my biggest regrets is the last time I was there I didn't visit Hamburg. I heard it's one of the most interesting cities in Germany and from your article I can see why! Next time 🙂 Thanks for sharing!
Great article with a deep dive to history.I also migrated from one country to another. Learned a lot about it from your post.
full of info and very-well designed story. Liked the photos and your post. thank you:)
How incredibly interesting. Our boys have visiting Ellis Island and we talk a lot about immigration back then and now in our current political climate. I'm going to read this with them- they will really enjoy the personal story!
I've never visited Ellis Island in all of my trips to NYC – and it's truly such a special experience – as you've demonstrated! Thank you for the history and deep dive into something so important!
I didn't expected such an interesting article, I like that you shared personal story of emigration too.
Very detailed and informative post! I actually learned quite a lot about emigration that I had no idea about. Keep creating your wonderful posts!
thanks for taking the time to share this! super helpful and interesting to read.
So historic, love to know a lot about historical facts through your posts. Personally I don't really much like visiting museums. Loving the BNW shot from Kindergarten, all are so cute, including YOU 🙂
This is such a well researched post! I didn't really think about this emigration and I love the details that you've included. I also like the way you've linked the sites together for a full story.