One Day in CATANIA, Sicily’s Building Ground of Grand Palaces

Although often overlooked and definitely underrated, Catania is a city full of beauty, history, and, on clear days, magnificent views of Mount Etna. In particular, the palaces constructed during the Baroque period after the city was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1693 reflect the city’s rich architectural and cultural heritage. Although there is no generally accepted exact number, there are certainly around 50 notable palaces in and around the city.

Apart from the famous palaces such as the Palazzo Biscari, the Palazzo degli Elefanti, and the
Palazzo Minoriti, there are numerous smaller and lesser-known ones scattered throughout the city. Many of these are privately owned and have been converted for business purposes. That’s why, even as a self-proclaimed Poverty Jetsetter, I was able to spend a restful night in a real Italian Palazzo!
More about that – and all the other marvels of Catania – in this post.

Catania

Like all major cities in Sicily, Catania weaves ancient history with vibrant modernity. Nestled in the shadow of Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano, Greek settlers founded Catania back in 729 BCE. Over centuries, it flourished under various rulers, including the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans, each leaving their unique imprint. The city’s resilience is legendary, having been rebuilt multiple times after devastating earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.

Today, you can see traces of its layered history in its stunning architecture, from Roman amphitheaters to Baroque palaces. Actually, it’s Catania’s Baroque structures that earned the city a listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

However, the proximity to Mount Etna makes the city an adventure seeker’s destination. Guided hikes, lava cave explorations, and wine tours on Etna’s fertile slopes offer unforgettable experiences. For a more relaxed outing, head to the coast, for instance below the picturesque town of Taormina, where beaches and azure waters await.

Piazza del Duomo

The heart of historic Catania is the Piazza del Duomo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site nothing short of magical. Beyond its architectural splendor, the Piazza del Duomo is the beating heart of Catania. During the day, it hums with activity as locals and visitors gather to sip coffee at nearby cafés, browse artisan stalls, or simply admire the scenery. By night, the piazza transforms into a dreamy spectacle as the illuminated buildings glow warmly, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere.

The first thing you’ll notice as you step into the Piazza del Duomo is its stunning Baroque architecture, crafted largely from the city’s signature black lava stone. The Cattedrale di Sant’Agata, a breathtaking tribute to Catania’s patron saint, dominates the square.

Cattedrale di Sant’Agata

This Cathedral is an awe-inspiring masterpiece. Dedicated to Saint Agatha, Catania’s patron saint and a revered Christian martyr, the cathedral’s story is one of destruction and renewal. Originally built in the 11th century on the ruins of Roman baths, it has faced the wrath of nature multiple times. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions from nearby Mount Etna damaged or even destroyed the cathedral. But each time it was lovingly rebuilt, showcasing the city’s unyielding spirit.

The most significant reconstruction, however, occurred in the late 17th century after the catastrophic 1693 earthquake. Renowned architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini redesigned the frontage in a glorious Sicilian Baroque style. He blended white marble with black lava stone to create a strikingly elegant contrast.

The façade is adorned with intricately carved statues, columns, and reliefs. As you step inside, you are greeted by a grand interior featuring soaring ceilings, ornate chapels, and beautiful frescoes. The cathedral is also home to the Chapel of Saint Agatha, where the saint’s relics are carefully preserved and displayed during the grand Festival of Saint Agatha every February.

Fontana dell’Elefante

In the middle of the piazza stands the Fontana dell’Elefante, a bizarre and justifiably popular symbol of the city.

Giovanni Battista Vaccarini designed the fountain in 1736. It is a true masterpiece of creative eclecticism. The elephant sculpture, carved from the same volcanic rock that formed much of Catania, supports a white marble obelisk, a relic believed to date from ancient Egypt or Roman times. Magnificent carvings and decorative elements surround the base.

However, the Fontana dell’Elefante is not just a decorative monument. It is a cornerstone of local identity. Over the centuries, it has become a symbol of Catania’s resilience and optimism, standing out amid the city’s turbulent history of volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. It’s a strange mix of mysticism and whimsy that never fails to pique curiosity. Obviously, as is always the case with such fountains, it is supposed to bring good luck to visitors.

Fontana dell’Amenano

For my taste, the Fontana dell’Elefante is a bit too eclectic. My favorite fountain is the elegant Fontana dell’Amenano on the southern side of the square, somewhat hidden on the west side of the Palace of Chierici.

The fountain, built around a Carrara marble centerpiece, represents the Amenano river as a young man holding a cornucopia, from which water flows into a tub from where the water overflows. The water from the pool flows into a river, located about two meters below the square. This is actually the only spot from which you can see the river as its entire course is underground.

City of Palaces

On my one-day visit, the abundance of stately palaces in Catania immediately struck me.

Alongside Via Etnea is hardly a structure that doesn’t blow your mind with its beauty and charm. But why are there so many majestic palaces in Catania?

Well, the rich architecture is rooted in the city’s history, geography, and also socio-political contexts.

Catania’s location on the crossroads of the fertile slopes of Mount Etna and the proximity to the sea made it an economic hub. The volcanic soil was ideal for growing citrus fruits, olives, and grapes, while its port facilitated trade across the Mediterranean. The resulting prosperity provided the financial means. Therefore, a significant number of aristocratic families made Catania their home and built palaces as symbols of their power and status, obviously. The competition among nobles to display their affluence further fueled the creation of even more elaborate residences. However, their palaces served not only as private homes but also as venues for political and social gatherings, reinforcing the city’s prominence. Catania was a city of cultural and political importance within the Kingdom of Sicily.

Phoenix from the Ashes

Nevertheless, the devastating earthquake of 1693 leveled much of southeastern Sicily, including Catania. The urban planning that followed the devastation laid out wide streets and squares that provided an ideal canvas for grand structures. Also, the city’s rebuilding coincided with the height of the Baroque period. This architectural style emphasized grandeur, drama, and ornamentation, and it became the preferred aesthetic for new constructions. Palaces were designed to be monumental, with intricate facades, grand staircases, and opulent interiors showcasing local artisans’ skills. The rebuilding effort was guided by visionary architects like Giovanni Battista Vaccarini, who finally gave the city its distinct Baroque touch.

Unlike other cities where modernization led to the destruction of historic buildings, Catania has preserved many of its palaces. They continue to play a role in the city’s identity, serving as museums, cultural centers, and administrative buildings, ensuring their legacy endures. Hence, Catania’s palaces are not just architectural marvels. They are in fact monuments to the city’s history, resilience, and ambition. They tell the story of a place where art, culture, and determination have flourished in the face of adversity.

Palazzo degli Elefanti

One of the most significant palaces, albeit, by far not the most beautiful one, is the Palazzo degli Elefanti. Its name translates to Palace of the Elephants, obviously, which is a reference to the elephant fountain in front of the building.

The palace is an impressive Baroque building, originally constructed in the 17th century. It has served as the seat of the City Hall, hence, it has been the political and administrative center of Catania for hundreds of years. The building has undergone various modifications and restorations throughout its history, yet, its Baroque style, with its ornate decorations and grand façades, still dominates the central Piazza del Duomo.

Palazzo dei Chierici

Another imposing historic Baroque-style building in the Piazza del Duomo is the Palazzo dei Chierici. Architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini constructed it in the 17th century, and it stands out for its architectural elegance and historical significance. The building showcases classic Baroque features, such as ornate balconies, a grand façades, and detailed stonework. The symmetry and proportions reflect the style prevalent during Catania’s reconstruction.

Historically, the Palazzo dei Chierici served as a residence for the clergy of the nearby Cathedral of Sant’Agata. Over time, the building has been repurposed for various administrative and cultural functions. It now hosts exhibitions and events related to the city’s heritage. Today, part of the building is used for the Diocesan Museum, which houses artifacts related to the history of the cathedral and the religious life of Catania.

Palazzo Gioeni

Palazzo Gioeni is a remarkable baroque palace that, for reasons I don’t understand, often goes unnoticed. The façade has striking decorations made of white stone and a bronze angel that bears the coat of arms of the Gioeni family. A bronze monument by sculptor Mario Rutelli, completed in 1920, honors Duke Giuseppe Gioeni d’Angiò, a renowned geologist and naturalist. He was known for his studies of the volcanoes of Campania and Sicily and was a professor of botany and natural history at the University of Catania. His political activism during the Napoleonic era forced him into captivity and even exile.

The palace, designed by architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini, was extensively restored and converted for commercial purposes in the 1960s. Today it houses offices of the University of Catania.

Although often overlooked, its architectural and historical significance makes it a landmark in the cityscape. Last but not least, the German über-poet and Italy fan Johann Wolfgang von Goethe stayed here during his great trip to Italy!

Palazzo del Toscano

As you continue further up the Via Etnea, you’ll get to another important intersection of the city, namely Piazza Stesicoro. Here, Palazzo Paternò del Toscano, commonly known as Palazzo del Toscano, is a stunning example of Catania’s magnificent architecture. In the early 18th century, renowned architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini initiated the construction of the palace. However, the project was halted after completing only the first floor which featured distinctive black and white stone arches characteristic of Catanese Baroque architecture.

Originally inhabited by the Tedeschi Bonadies family, Barons of Villermosa, the palace was bequeathed in 1858 to their nephew, Antonino Paternò, the first Marquis of Toscano. Shortly thereafter, Antonino became the first mayor of Catania, marking a significant shift in the building’s ownership and its role in the city’s social landscape. In fact, the Paternò Castello family had deep roots in Sicilian history, with ties to the nobility going back centuries. However, they were known not only for their political influence but also for their patronage of the arts and architecture.

Around 1870, under the direction of Milanese architect Errico Alvino, their palace underwent significant expansion to serve as their urban residence. The palace’s neoclassical design reflects the family’s wealth and their desire to assert their status and cultural refinement during a period when noble families in Sicily were adapting to the changing societal and economic conditions of post-unification Italy.

Today, Palazzo del Toscano houses various shops and is utilized for educational and cultural events, maintaining its status as a central fixture in Catania’s urban life.

Palazzo Tezzano

Also in Piazza Stesicoro is the Palazzo Tezzano. Construction of this masterpiece began in 1709 under the leadership of the architect Alonzo di Benedetto on land that belonged to the count and doctor Niccolò Tezzano. Once completed, Tezzano donated the building to the city of Catania. It then housed the San Marco Hospital. In 1837, due to financial difficulties, part of the building was leased to the nobles of Bourbon.

Today, Palazzo Tezzano houses the University of Catania’s ceramics archive. It consists of thousands of reproductions of vases from all over Europe.

Palazzo Beneventano

Another majestic palace in Piazza Stesicoro is the Palazzo Beneventano della Corte. Baron Giuseppe Luigi Beneventano commissioned the Florentine architect Mariano Falcini and the engineer Giuseppe Lanzerotti to complete it in the 1870s and 1880s.

In the 1950s, during the partial demolition of the nearby San Berillo district, the palace was one of the few remaining structures and was acquired by the Banco di Sicilia. In 1983 it was auctioned off and returned to private ownership.

The palace’s central location makes it a significant landmark, offering views of both the ancient Roman amphitheater and the monument to Vincenzo Bellini.

Palazzo San Demetrio

Palazzo San Demetrio was one of the first palaces rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake which makes it a beacon of the city’s resilience. The reconstruction was overseen by architect Alonzo di Benedetto.
Originally known as Palazzo Massa di San Gregorio, the palace was commissioned by Don Eusebio Massa, the Baron of San Gregorio. The Massa family was of Genoese origin and among the most affluent and influential in 18th-century Catania, holding significant public offices.

Following Don Eusebio Massa’s death, the palace was acquired by Salvatore Pellegrino, the Baron of San Demetrio, in 1714. The Pellegrino family resided in the palace until the early 20th century.

The palace is renowned for its ornate Baroque frontage, characterized by a sculptural portal adorned with intricate decorations. This façade remains largely intact, despite alterations during street leveling in the 19th century and reconstruction efforts following World War II bombings.

Palazzo Manganelli

A bit tucked away on Via Etnea is Palazzo Manganelli, the historic residence of the Manganelli family.

The building features a beautiful façade adorned with intricate decorations, including sculptures and frescoes. Inside, the rooms are lavishly decorated with frescoes on the ceilings, exquisite furniture, and elaborate details, offering a glimpse into the opulence of Sicilian nobility during that era.

Palazzo Gravina Cruyllas

Palazzo Gravina Cruyllas is situated a bit apart from Via Etnea at the intersection of Piazza San Francesco and Via Vittorio Emanuele II. This historic building is first and foremost known as the birthplace of the esteemed local composer Vincenzo Bellini. Born in 1801, Bellini spent his formative years in this very residence.

The current structure was erected in the early 18th century, replacing an earlier palace of the Gravina Cruyllas family, a noble lineage of Norman origin. This earlier edifice had been destroyed in the catastrophic 1693 earthquake, obviously.

Today, the palace houses the Museo Civico Belliniano, dedicated to preserving and showcasing artifacts related to Bellini’s life and work. The museum features a rich collection of portraits, letters, and musical scores, offering visitors insight into the composer’s legacy.

Additionally, the palace is home to the Museo Emilio Greco, which displays works by the renowned sculptor.

The Museo Civico Belliniano is open every day from 9 a.m. On Mondays and Sundays, they are closing at 1 p.m., on all other days only at 7 p.m. and the entrance fee is 5 €uros. This includes also the Museo Emilio Greco.

Palazzo Biscari

The crown jewel of Catania’s Baroque architecture, Palazzo Biscari is a masterpiece built after the 1693 earthquake. Commissioned by the Paternò Castello family, it boasts lavish interiors, including grand ballrooms adorned with frescoes, stucco decorations, and mirrors. Today, it’s a cultural hotspot hosting events and concerts.

Via Crociferi

Although somewhat hidden and actually not very long, Via Crociferi is one of the most famous and picturesque streets in all of Catania. It is particularly known for its series of outstanding churches and monasteries, reflecting the splendor of Catania’s Baroque period.

On a stretch of only 180 meters, no less than three churches are considered important landmarks of the city’s religious and architectural history!

Chiesa di San Giuliano

Let’s start with the Chiesa di San Giuliano which is considered one of the most elegant Baroque structures in the city, both for its artistic value and architectural harmony.

Master builder Giovanni Battista Vaccarini designed the structure in the early 18th century. Its curved front is adorned with a beautiful balcony supported by ornate corbels and features decorative stonework typical of the Baroque style. Columns are flanking the main entrance, giving it a grand appearance. One of the most striking elements of the church, however, is its large, octagonal dome. From here, visitors have panoramic views of the city and Mount Etna.

The church was originally part of a Benedictine convent. The cloistered nuns historically used a special grated balcony within the church to observe Mass while remaining hidden from view, as per their vows. To this day, the church remains a significant historical and cultural site as it houses also concerts and other cultural events while the former convent building serves as the headquarters of the Chamber of Labor.

Chiesa di San Francesco Borgia

Opposite the Chiesa di San Giuliano, further south on the other side of the street, is the church of San Francesco Borgia.

The Jesuits commissioned the church in the 17th century as part of a former Jesuit college.
It was dedicated to Saint Francis Borgia, a Spanish nobleman who became a Jesuit priest and was later canonized. He is honored as a key figure of the Counter-Reformation.

The Jesuit college played a crucial role in educating the city’s elite during the Baroque era.

Although the church is no longer used for regular services, it is often open for cultural events, concerts, and exhibitions.

The façade features elegant columns, statues, and an ornate pediment, while the interior is equally impressive with intricate stucco work, gilded decorations, and beautiful frescoes.
The altars are also true masterpieces, made from fine materials such as marble and decorated with breathtaking works of art.

Chiesa di San Benedetto

Shoulder to shoulder with San Francesco Borgia is the Chiesa di San Benedetto. It was built in the early 18th century as part of the Monastero delle Benedettine di San Benedetto, a Benedictine convent, and was dedicated to St. Benedict of Nursia, the founder of the Benedictine Order.

Its most striking feature is the so-called Scalinata dell’Angelo, hence, the Stairway of the Angel. This grand staircase leads to the entrance and is adorned with sculptures of angels, giving it a theatrical and monumental appearance.

While the church’s façade is an architectural masterpiece, also the interior is richly decorated with lavish frescoes painted by Giovanni Tuccari, a prominent Sicilian artist of the Baroque period. These frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. Benedict, biblical episodes, and allegorical themes.
One of the most celebrated features of the church is the central ceiling fresco, which represents the Glory of St. Benedict. This vibrant and detailed work immerses visitors in the dramatic and emotional scenery.

Villa Bellini

While the breathtakingly magnificent architecture is certainly Catania’s most important flagship, you might want to take a breather in secluded green surroundings every now and then. And there is no place better suited for this than Villa Bellini.

Villa Bellini is one of the oldest and most beautiful public gardens in Catania. This serene oasis is located off Via Etnea just outside the very city center.

The park dates back to the late 18th century when it was originally a private garden owned by Prince Ignazio Paternò Castello. In 1854, the city of Catania purchased the property and transformed it into a public park.

To this date, Villa Bellini is famed for its elegant landscaping. The garden boasts a rich variety of local as well as exotic trees and plants. One of the park’s most iconic features, however, is the floral clock, which changes daily to display the current date in vibrant flowers.

Another highlight, literally, are the elevated terraces from where you have panoramic views of Catania and, at least on clear days, of Mount Etna.

Since the garden is named after Vincenzo Bellini, a bust of this famed Catanese composer as well as references to his work are found throughout the park.

What’s A Villa?

Now I have introduced so many noble buildings, and a park of all things is called a villa?
That seems confusing.
Therefore, this might be the right moment to clarify that a Villa in Italian does not exclusively refer to a mansion. That would be more like a palazzo. Instead, a Villa describes more of an estate. It may therefore be irritating that Villa Bellini is not a fat crib, but a spacious park.

Via San Michele

Once you had enough of all those historic structures, it’s time to catch an urban bohemian vibe in Via San Michele. This charming street is located just behind the bustling Via Etnea and is renowned for its vibrant artistic community. Here, visitors can explore various ateliers, galleries, and workshops featuring painters, graphic artists, and photographers.

Don’t miss out on Folk where the talented Magda Masano creates amazing ceramic objects. At the small gallery Tabarè, five talented ladies blend their creativity into an amazing kaleidoscope of shapes, colors, and materials. Other notable establishments are the historic atelier of Antonio Recca at number 30 as well as Koart, a gallery that welcomes new generations of artists and showcases works ranging from figurative to conceptual. Music enthusiasts should definitely visit Cari and Rari, a refuge for those who have a passion for vinyl records.

The street also boasts cozy bars and eateries. For those culinary delights, Cucina dei Colori offers a creative, healthy, and tasty menu that changes daily based on seasonal ingredients. Additionally, Razmataz provides a small outdoor setting in the heart of the city. Here guests can enjoy typical Sicilian cuisine reimagined with unique flavors, accompanied by an exquisite glass of wine.

To cut a long story short, Via San Michele is an amazing blend of tradition and innovation. I’d argue it is a must-visit destination for those interested in experiencing Catania’s exciting contemporary artistic scene.

Street Art by Demetrio Di Grado

And this takes us straight to Demetrio Di Grado. Di Grado was born in Palermo in 1976. His artistic journey began within the hip-hop culture in the late 20th century. Funny enough, he actually was a rapper. However, this early exposure to urban culture led him to explore visual arts, particularly painting and collage.

In 2012, Di Grado founded the association ManSourcing, aiming to promote art in its various forms. Through this platform, he organized numerous exhibitions and street art projects, collaborating with both emerging and established artists on national and international levels.

Today, Di Grado’s signature style involves creating so-called talking collages that blend vintage imagery with contemporary topics. He often utilizes archival illustrations from the 1930s to the 1950s, assembling them into thought-provoking compositions that comment on modern society.

Demetrio Di Grado resides in Caltagirone, southeast of Piazza Armerina. He contributes significantly to Sicily’s contemporary art scene, both through his personal creations and his efforts to promote other talents within the urban art community.

Practical Information

How to Get There

By Plane

Sicily, being the largest island in the Mediterranean, has actually four international airports. Catania Airport and Palermo Airport are the primary gateways for global travelers, offering the most extensive networks and facilities. Then, Trapani and Comiso serve as secondary airports, ideal for budget-conscious travelers or those visiting exclusively specific regions of Sicily.

Catania’s Vincenzo Bellini Airport in Fontanarossa is only six kilometers south of the city center. It is the busiest airport in Sicily with a wide choice of domestic and international flights. There are various bus connections to Catania city center as well as direct connections to other Sicilian cities such as Syracuse and Taormina.

By Ferry

Travelling to Sicily by ferry is a popular and scenic option, offering connections from mainland Italy and other locations. The most common national routes are from Villa San Giovanni in Calabria to Messina. This short crossing connects in around half an hour the tip of the mainland with northeastern Sicily. Also, ferries run frequently, often every 30 minutes.

However, you can also take a ferry to Palermo from Sardinia’s capital Cagliari. This seasonal service takes around twelve hours and is a very scenic way to combine visits to both islands. From Pozzallo in Malta, you’ll get to Catania in two to three hours, depending on the route and the vessel. Also, there are frequent high-speed ferries from Valletta to southeastern Sicily.

When looking for ferry connections, make sure to check also the respective ports as those might differ. Also, taking the ferry is not necessarily cheaper than going by plane. However, it is a more eco-friendly way of travelling. Also, it is the only option if you have to take your car across the sea.

Land Transport

Getting to Sicily by train or overland bus from mainland Italy is straightforward, thanks to well-established transportation networks. Also, it is a very relaxed and scenic option.

Direct trains connect major Italian cities to Sicilian destinations such as Palermo, Catania, Messina, and Syracuse. As you opt for an overnight service, you save time and even money for accommodation. Trains to Sicily board a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina which usually takes around half an hour. Passengers remain on the train as it is loaded onto the ferry.

To give you an idea: From Milan, the overnight train takes 20 hours, from Rome it takes twelve hours. From Naples, it takes only seven. Tickets can be purchased through Trenitalia and advanced booking is recommended, especially during the high season and for overnight journeys.

In Sicily, trains are also connecting bigger cities. However, travelling by overland bus is far more popular as it is a more reliable and even a bit cheaper option. Also, in contrast to trains, buses serve smaller towns and villages. The biggest players are Interbus and SAIS.

How to Get Around

In particular, the historic part of the city center around Via Etnea can be easily visited on foot.

Nevertheless, Catania offers a variety of public transport options. There is not only an extensive bus network. Since 1999, Catania has also been the only city in Sicily to have a functioning subway system. It currently consists of a single line that connects important parts of the city and passes through several neighborhoods and landmarks.
The subway operates from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. On Sundays and public holidays, the first train leaves at 8 a.m. During peak hours, trains run every 15 minutes.

Bus and subway tickets can be purchased at kiosks, bus stops, and subway intersections. A normal bus ticket costs 1 €uro, while a subway ticket only costs 0.80 €uro. A day ticket is available for €2.50. It grants unlimited travel on public transport within the city.

My Tip:

If you come from another city, the large bus station on the Piazza Paolo Borsellino is closer to the historical part of Catania than the main train station and the main bus station next to it.

Vising Organized

Although the regional bus system in Sicily is not bad at all, there are places on the island that are difficult to reach by public transport. If you are a slow traveler and can plan an additional overnight stay, it is definitely possible to explore Sicily exclusively by public bus. But if you can’t plan a whole day for each remote attraction, here are some great options for exploring Sicily on organized day trips*:

Where to Stay

The baroque churches, the Roman theater, Mount Etna – all fine and dandy. Nevertheless, one of my personal highlights in Catania was spending the night in a real Palazzo. As I wrote at the beginning, the palaces are now used for practical purposes: shops, offices, and even accommodation.

And this way, I ended up spending a night in the stately Palazzo Fischetti* on Piazza Giovanni Falcone. And I was by no means the first one, as this palace was built in the late 19th century as the city’s premier hotel. The hotel, then called Grande Albergo, opened its doors to the public in 1873. Don Rosario Fischetti commissioned the building to be remodeled from a pre-existing silk-weaving workshop. Don Rosarios wanted to make his city look particularly glamorous by offering Catania’s visitors first-class accommodation.

Don Rosario – and also his modern successor – did a great job. Today the Palazzo Fischetti* functions as a B&B. It offers air-conditioned rooms with modern amenities as well as free WiFi, a small breakfast menu, and a great fully automatic coffee machine. Furthermore, its central location makes it a perfect choice for visitors.

If the Palazzo Fischetti* should be booked out, you can look for other suitable accommodation on this map*:

Just So You Know

Many travelers complain that places like the B&B Palazzo Fischetti* only offer a selection of pre-packaged cakes, slices of bread, jams, and the like.

This is not due to the innkeepers’ stinginess but is required by law. For hygienic reasons, privately run accommodations are only allowed to offer industrially packaged food.

What to Eat

Sicilian food is a vibrant reflection of the island’s rich history and cultural influences. Situated in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily has been influenced by Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, and Spanish cultures, and its cuisine tells this story with bold flavors, unique ingredients, and diverse cooking techniques. The Arab influence is particularly strong, seen in the use of raisins, pine nuts, saffron, and couscous in dishes.

No, the most iconic dish is not pizza, the inalienable staple are Arancini, deep-fried rice balls filled with ragù, hence a juicy meat sauce, cheese, or vegetables. They are the perfect snack and – according to pure bone Sicilians – eating them with a knife and fork is a sacrilege.
Another highly popular fast food is are so-called Panelle. These fritters are made from chickpea flour and are often served in sandwiches.

My favorite Sicilian dish is Caponata, a sweet and sour eggplant stew, seasoned with olives, capers, and tomatoes. Add ricotta cheese and basil, and you have a sauce alla Norma that you can pour over pasta or stuff into Arancini. Another incredible pasta sauce is con le Sarde, hence with sardines, but also with fennel, pine nuts, and raisins. This sauce clearly showcases Arab influences in local cuisine.

And yes, there is also pizza. The Sicilian kind is called Sfincione. It is softer and thicker than its Neapolitan counterpart and topped with tomatoes, onions, anchovies, and breadcrumbs.

Arancino Or Arancina?

For years, I called the delicious rice ball an arancino. Until I went to buy one of these delicacies at the Palermo bus station and was surprised to see that the sign said arancina.
Well, you live, you learn.

The next day, I wanted to get my daily fix of deliciously stuffed rice in a crispy crust in Syracuse – and the saleswoman called it an arancino.

How now?

Quite simply: depending on where you are, both are correct. In most Italian regions, delicious rice cones are called arancini, in the singular arancino.
But in Palermo, they say arancina, which makes it arancine in the plural.
Because here – and only here! – the treat is not a cone, but a ball.
Round like an orange.
Which is called arancia in Italian.
Hence, for Palermitani, the matter is clear: an orange-shaped ball can only be an arancina.

Buon appetito!

My Tip

Just across from the entrance to Villa Bellini is Pasticceria Savia, the best bakery in all of Catania. Although it’s a so-called pasticceria, hence a pastry bakery, they don’t make only sweets and pastries. First and foremost their filled dumplings, arancini, and other savory snacks are to die for! You can enjoy their delicacies either in their small restaurant, on a spacious terrace, or order them to go.

Cash and Cards

Until now, 20 European countries have replaced their former local currency with the €uro starting in 2002. Obviously, Italy is one of them. The exchange rate is 1 US$ = 0.96 EUR as of March 2025. However, you can check today’s conversion rate on this page. Also, you pay by credit card as well as contactless practically everywhere, even on public buses.

Language’N’Lessons

Zushini, Gnotchi, Raditcho – I’m bleeding from my ears as I often hear these mispronunciations.
Seriously, it’s not so hard.

So here are some general rules: As in any other Romance language, C is hard when written before A, O, and U, hence, it’s pronounced K.

If followed by E or I, it’s tch as in witch.

Now, if a C followed by E or I should be pronounced K, an H is added: Bruschetta, Zucchini, Gnocchi, Radicchio – Brusketta, Zukini, Gnoki, Radikio.

On the other hand, if C followed by A, O, or U should be pronounced tch, they slip in a – silent! – I: Ciocolata, Ciabatta – Tchocolata, Tchabatta – forget about the I in-between.

Italian Classes in Sicily

As a matter of fact, it might be a great idea to learn some Italian or brush up on what you already know while in Sicily. A great place to do so is for instance the Italian Academy in Syracuse.

They advertise that they are professional and friendly and I can fully confirm that. I took a two-week intensive course and progressed a whole level in that time. So if you want to completely immerse yourself in Italian life with all your senses, take a look at what the school has to offer.

If you are interested in taking Italian classes, but you’re insecure about how to organize your stay, don’t worry. The friendly and efficient ladies at the academy’s office are accommodating and can arrange literally everything for you.

After a placement test, they advise you which class would be your best choice and help you with every little detail including providing housing for the duration of your course.

Connection and Communication

Since June 2017, no roaming charges have been applied within the EU with a European mobile phone contract, This applies in all 27 countries of the European Union as well as in Great Britain, Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway and to all contracts.

In case European roaming is unavailable, you can connect to the internet without any issue at basically every museum, eatery, café, and, of course, hotel.

If you insist on being online 24/7, you can get a SIM card, obviously. There are prepaid SIM cards by various companies. For non-European travellers visiting Italy, the best SIM cards are Telecom Italia Mobile, in short TIM. It is Italy’s largest mobile operator with excellent coverage and data speeds. Their best plan should be TIM Tourist SIM which supplies you bis 20 GB and 200 minutes to international numbers. It costs around 20 €uros and is valid for 30 days.

A good alternative is Vodafone Italy with their plan Vodafone Holiday. For 30 days, you get 30 GB and 300 minutes for calls including international numbers for around 30 €uros.

Finally, WindTre is a great option for budget-conscious travelers as their WindTre Tourist Pass offers 20 GB and 100 minutes for international and unlimited calls within Italy, all this also for 30 days.

As a matter of fact, e-sim cards are the easiest way to stay connected as you arrange everything on the Internet.

Get the Power

The standard voltage in Europe is 220 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. In Italy, they use three plug types, namely C, F, and L.
Whereby, since nowadays, all these chargers have integrated adapters, in general, the voltage and frequency don’t really matter. You only need an adapter for small appliances such as curling irons or hair dryers. But keep in mind that at basically every accommodation you will have a hair dryer at your disposal.

You’ll find comprehensive travel info in my post World’s Most Complete Travel Information – an indispensable globetrotter-classic.

Map

On this map, I’m showing you where to find the spots worth visiting during a day trip to Catania. Clicking on the slider symbol at the top left or the full-screen icon at the top right will display the whole map including the legend.

Catania was only one of the various amazing places I visited during my trip to Sicily. To read about the others, go to this post and take your pick!

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